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Old 01-07-2007, 02:25 PM   #21
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I believe your model is the same as mine and does not need to be changed. I had to jump the gray wires (of thermostat) connect them together with a clip..I did not make a cut...just a jumped it...also wire #10 went to yellow wire coming out...did not use wire 4 this wire caused it to start up without any call). what model do you have a will check mine?

As fot the switch to the generator to get the english codes I have been trying and did connect to the back of my switch like you said but no luck (only can get blinking codes). Onan has several EC30 out there that have older version software. Mine is at onan getting an updated version (hopefully).

I also chose not to hook up the heat pump or shore..

Peter
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Old 01-07-2007, 04:28 PM   #22
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Peter,
I called RVP and they said I needed their new model thermostat that has the connecting wire for an Auto-start---I ordered the thermostat and did not have to jump any wires with the new thermostat--it is exactly the same as the model from the factory except it has the auto start connection---it works great.
I ran the battery voltage wires all the way to the battery.
I connected the generator wire to the dash switch---must make sure you get the right wire or it won't work---if you get the right wire it works great.
I used a door bell transformer for the 110 volt detection.
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Old 01-10-2007, 03:41 PM   #23
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I believe your model is the same as mine and does not need to be changed. I had to jump the gray wires (of thermostat) connect them together with a clip..I did not make a cut...just a jumped it...also wire #10 went to yellow wire coming out...did not use wire 4 this wire caused it to start up without any call). what model do you have a will check mine? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Peter you were right on with the two gray wires. One of them looses 12 volts when shore power is dropped. They both had 12 volts when shore power was connected. I soldered a diode between the two gray wires so they both still have 12 volts when shore power is dropped and connected wire 11 to the yellow wire from the thermostat and it works like a champ. The yellow wire is for compressor #1 and the Orange wire is for compressor #2. Also the White/black wire is for the heat pump operation if you want to connect that in as well. Thanks for the gray wire tip.
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Old 01-11-2007, 03:45 AM   #24
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Harry thats great where did you get the info on the orange wire and the white and black? Did you use wire #4 or leave it disconnected?

I am assuming that for the a/c to work and stay working all you need is compressor #1. What do you think? I guess if #1 broke then it would shut off or do they run in cycles?

Rnabors..thats great news how much was that thermostat and do you have a part number so we can pass it on to others?
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Old 01-11-2007, 05:12 AM   #25
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Peter...I installed my EC30 in July 2005. At the time I called RVP and was able to get one of the new thermostats out of quality control--pre-production.
I was told that the new thermostats would be a replacement for the then current model versus an additional product.
If that is the case Winnebago dealers inventory should have the auto-gen-start hook up if they ordered new inventory in 2006. Certainly RVP should have them if they will sell direct.
You can tell if it is a new one because it has an extra wire and the instruction will identify the auto-start wire.
Someone could call RVP to verify.
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Old 01-11-2007, 12:36 PM   #26
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Harry thats great where did you get the info on the orange wire and the white and black? Did you use wire #4 or leave it disconnected?

Peter, The info regarding the wires came from a discussion I had with a RVP technician. I had already figured the connections out on my own, but it did not work because the one gray wire dropped the 12 volts when shore power was disconnected. I hooked wire #10 to the yellow wire and wire #11 to the white/black wire and did not connect wire #4 just like you did

I am assuming that for the a/c to work and stay working all you need is compressor #1. What do you think? I guess if #1 broke then it would shut off or do they run in cycles? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The #1 compressors is the primary compressor and runs anytime A/C is called for. The Orange wire controls compressor #2 and goes active when additional cooling from the 2nd compressor is required. So the yellow wire is active anytime A/C is required.

The ironic part of the discussion with the RVP tech was that they had no clue as to how to resolve the AGS hookup. I mentioned the connection of the gray wires to him as well as the new thermostat which is supposed to have an additional wire, but neither was known to him. He did however put names to the yellow, orange and white/black wires, of which I allready knew their function.

Here are some other lines I figured out:
Purple = Fan Lo, Black = Fan High and the white wire on the three pin plug turns on the Gas furnace.
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Old 01-11-2007, 09:13 PM   #27
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This link may help with figuring out the wiring for the RVP thermostat: RVP Quick Reference Guide
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Old 01-12-2007, 06:35 AM   #28
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I am currently out of town---when I get home I will check my records and call the RVP tech that helped me out with my EC30 installation and get the low down on how to get the thermostat he sent me.
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Old 01-12-2007, 06:39 PM   #29
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I read somewhere that you should never discharge your batteries more than 50% of capacity. Do to CRS I don't know where that was. I believe a fully charged lead-acid battery should measure 12.6 volts. There are tables indicating approximate voltage at various discharge points and it seems to me a 50% discharge is somewhere around 11.9 volts. I believe 11.2 volts is way to low and will shorten the life expectany of your battery set. I would recommend doing some research on what the minimum voltage should be as 11.2 seems very low.
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Old 01-12-2007, 08:18 PM   #30
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road king I agree with you and will let you know what happens when I get my ec30 back but what I think it is... if you dont direct wire the ec 30 to the battery you are not getting a true reading..(this it was onan says) so playing with it to 11.2 probably helps those out who have 3 batteries and dont want false or excessive starts at night to run propane in cold weather. Plus I guess it also depends on how many batteries you have too (in a way).
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Old 01-13-2007, 02:38 AM   #31
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I read somewhere that you should never discharge your batteries more than 50% of capacity. Do to CRS I don't know where that was. I believe a fully charged lead-acid battery should measure 12.6 volts. There are tables indicating approximate voltage at various discharge points and it seems to me a 50% discharge is somewhere around 11.9 volts. I believe 11.2 volts is way to low and will orten the life expectany of your battery set. I would recommend doing some research on what the minimum voltage should be as 11.2 seems very low. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Roadking, I am with you at being reluctant to draw the voltages down that low. However the voltages provided to measure battery capacity ar based on not having a load on the batteries. When you are living in the coach, there is always a load of some kind drawing the voltage down. For instance my wife wanted a small second freezer installed in the basement, and it only operates on 12 volt and cycles the compressor on regular basis providing quite a load (5 amps), along with other things such as lights, furnace fans, roof fans and the biggest of all the inverter.

The voltages on the batteries get pulled down quickly. When that happens and at that point you remove the loads and allow the batteries to recover you will find that within a half hour a 11.2 volt reading may recover to 12 volts effectively telling you that your batteries are down 50% on their charge.

I am still in the process of fine tuning the voltage point at which I want the generator to start. With the default EC30 setting, I had the generator start within 45 minutes due to low voltage reading (default for the EC30 strart voltage on mine was 12.1 volts

I am also installing a battery monitor systems that can tell you how many amp hours you have left out of a full charge and shows what was put back during a charge run. This is really the best way to establish your charge level of the batteries. Then I will be able to better establish the associated voltage levels associated with a given state of discharge under load.

In case you don't have it, I have included a charge level table for 12 volt batteries


Battery State of Charge (no load)
Specific
Voltage % charge Gravity @ 80º
12.73 100 1.277
12.62 90 1.258
12.50 80 1.238
12.37 70 1.217
12.24 60 1.195
12.10 50 1.172
11.96 40 1.148
11.81 30 1.124
11.66 20 1.098
11.51 10 1.073
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Old 01-13-2007, 02:52 AM   #32
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">In case you don't have it, I have included a charge level table for 12 volt batteries </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

So much for my nice color coded Excell spreadsheet table. I have reformatted it by hand here and hope it stays that way

Specific
Voltage % charge Gravity @ 80º
12.73 100 1.277
12.62 90 1.258
12.50 80 1.238
12.37 70 1.217
12.24 60 1.195
12.10 50 1.172
11.96 40 1.148
11.81 30 1.124
11.66 20 1.098
11.51 10 1.073
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