No power to in/out buttons for both slides (2008 Class A Destination39W)

[Moscow]

Hi everyone - I am trying to extend my slide outs and no luck. My batteries are fully charged and new. I am trying to locate the fuses to the slide outs but am unable to locate both. I have located the white push in fuse panel for the slides in the bay where the main power comes in to the RV. All seem to be good. Are there any other fuse locations that I might be missing? Help please & thanks?

[Morich]

To help get the correct drawings, are you on a freightliner or Workhorse chassis?
Are you speaking of the breakers near the label for mode solenoid?
As a way to test if there is power getting to the breakers at that point, do you know what to expect when you set or release the slide lock? Does it make any sound to tell you it is working? If we could say that it is getting power to the slide lock, we can then avoid taking some things apart!

Idea is that the lock system uses the same buss bar as one of the slide power, so we can use that as an indication of which way to chase the problem!

Verify chassis battery disconnect switch is on!
Are you set up to test battery voltage if pointed to a spot?

Click to get a better view!

[Moscow]

Thank you very much Richard for your help. Firstly, we have a Freightliner chassis. Are the mode solenoids behind the little white breakers? The slide locks, which are located at the top of the slide outs, are unlocking (we hear them unlock). The chassis battery disconnect switch is on, but he (husband) hasn't tested it at that point. Note: he tested the fuse directly behind the chassis batteries and it was ok. He can test it tomorrow as our mh is not here with us right now. Really appreciate your feedback.

[Morich]

Okay, good to get the info and also see that you are not in a crisis situation.

With the info, we can look at where the power comes from and why if the locks are working, we don't have to dig in behind the breakers to check voltage!
Save work when you can!
This is the view of the breakers from the front!
Click this snip to get best view.

Two 40 amp feed one set of rams to one slide and I marked it orange, then a second pair of 40 amp feed another set of rams to a second slide and I marked it in blue. You may be able to read the labels on your breakers?

See the slide locks are also on that second bar? So if the locks are getting power to work, we can assume at least one of the slide ram sets is also getting power to this point. That means we can avoid tearing into the breaker back side to check voltage!
This drawing is looking from the back as if we turned the panel around !

Wires are marked with ID on them and the drawings:

We can look on this "decoder" list for where the wires go and figure what they do!
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

Wire PPP powers the locks, so we can say that set of rams on that same buss should also be getting power if the breaker is not tripped! You might miss one breaker being bad but not likely to have four breakers all bad and miss seeing that!
So we have to move on toward the slides to look for problems!

I will give it some more study and get back to you. Likely getting dark there now?

[Morich]

No need to check the disconnect switch or at batteries as those would cut power to rams as well as locks, so it is likely on toward slides and controls

[Morich]

One thing that might be easy to reach (or not?) is the really important ground wires that are down and behind the batteries on the frame at passenger side rear? They are often in the weather and where they get lots of abuse, so make sure they are clean and tight!


Then there are slide control modules at the the driver's rear side. Looks somewhere in the area near the breakers and mode solenoid but not clear to me! Around here? Detail EA

Like this and look for anything like lights to help or labels to say where battery and ground should come in?
No loose/broken or corroded wires?


But there also has to be control wires from the switch to these modules to signal them to work. Do they have anything to show where that type wires would connect? Maybe not an actual problem with the battery to work move the slides but something wrong with the control wiring to tell them to work to control slides moving?

[Morich]

Looking closer, I see more info on how and where the power gets from the breakers and ground to the slide control modules.
There should be a 4 pin plug on each module and those wires should match these drawings.
If I'm reading this correctly, power and ground go to these modules and then out to the slide rams and different switches.
Maybe check that both power and ground is getting to these modules on the 4 pin connector?



Be aware there are two 4 pin plugs on each module. This is the one with two yellow wires and two white wires. The other 4 pin plug takes the power from the module to the rams and has four 10 gauge yellow wires.

[David_Laura]

I have not read this entire thread but here was my solution: During other work at dealer, the ground wire interconnected through parking brake came loose. It was reattached and slides now work.

[Morich]

Very good! Always glad to hear things went well and a solution was found!
This seemed to be a bit different system than some I've chased and I was slowly working my way through but not feeling good about the way I was going as too much seemed to be out for any one single breaker or fuse to have failed.
But I had gotten to a point where it looked more likely one of the inputs to the both controllers might be a more likely problem.
And that interlock to the brake would be a very good suspect! But I'm also glad not to have to go that far!
If it now works, I call it a success!! Just as long as we don't just suddenly find it working for no reason as those have a nasty habit of coming back to bite us!

Good deal and glad you let us know what was up!

Now go and enjoy!

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Morich

Very good! Always glad to hear things went well and a solution was found!
This seemed to be a bit different system than some I've chased and I was slowly working my way through but not feeling good about the way I was going as too much seemed to be out for any one single breaker or fuse to have failed.
But I had gotten to a point where it looked more likely one of the inputs to the both controllers might be a more likely problem.
And that interlock to the brake would be a very good suspect! But I'm also glad not to have to go that far!
If it now works, I call it a success!! Just as long as we don't just suddenly find it working for no reason as those have a nasty habit of coming back to bite us!

Good deal and glad you let us know what was up!

Now go and enjoy!

Thread starter "Moscow" has the problem. David Laura posted their sollution, which may or may not be Moscow's problem.

[Morich]

ARRGH! Thanks for pointing that out as I had totally missed the detail as it sounded very much like the correct thing to cause the OP problem!
The park brake interlock will be one of several on the input side of the controller and I've not found how many to even look for at this point!

It was also something to try to avoid as we get so little info on how the controller makes the decisions and adds to the guesswork! With the controllers both at the rear, that sounds like the park brake interlock might go through an unlimited number of connections to get from front to back!
We need to wait and see what they find at the controllers as far as LED on/off and anything looking strange a bout the wiring.
Easy would be if one of the plugs going to/from the inputs from the switches to controllers had dropped out! Not likely but looking for an easy out???