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Old 07-29-2008, 09:33 AM   #1
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When using the dash A/C while traveling it works great but when I exit the freeway and am at a slow speed the A/C begins to blow warm air. This shouldn't be one would think.

Just for the record, I had the complete A/C unit repaired, vacuum unit, and entire A/C unit was removed and replaced during repairs.

Any ideas, suggestions, etc.?

David
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:33 AM   #2
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When using the dash A/C while traveling it works great but when I exit the freeway and am at a slow speed the A/C begins to blow warm air. This shouldn't be one would think.

Just for the record, I had the complete A/C unit repaired, vacuum unit, and entire A/C unit was removed and replaced during repairs.

Any ideas, suggestions, etc.?

David
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Old 07-29-2008, 12:55 PM   #3
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Anytime we need the AC, we turn the generator on and use the roof air(s). More efficent, then the dash air, uses less fuel and excercises the gennie. I believe most dash airs are notoriously inefficent and underpowered for MH's. We just returned from a 1200 mile round trip from the IRV2 annual rally and used one or more of the roof airs as needed and still averaged 8.5 MPG running 62-65 MPH.
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Old 07-29-2008, 01:05 PM   #4
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Daysu47:
When using the dash A/C while traveling it works great but when I exit the freeway and am at a slow speed the A/C begins to blow warm air. This shouldn't be one would think.

Just for the record, I had the complete A/C unit repaired, vacuum unit, and entire A/C unit was removed and replaced during repairs.

Any ideas, suggestions, etc.?

David </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

First suggestion would be to run Dash Air on MAX/AC. This recirculates/continues to cool/dehumidify only the interior driver and pax compartment air. If you are running "Normal A/C"...and you slow to a stop...your A/C now begins to import superheated engine compartment air into the A/C outside air intake. Superheated air + cold A/C air = warm air into driver and pax compartment vents.

Second suggestion: Check the return air vent for the Max Air. It is usually under dash on floor on Pax side. Sometimes hamburger wrappers etc...purses..block/restrict that returning cool air.

Third Suggestion: Use your defrost fans on low speed when using Dash Air..point them toward the outer edge of front windshield..This greatly adds to inside cool air movement and evaporation.
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Old 07-29-2008, 01:53 PM   #5
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Mine acts just like yours does Daysu47. And, for the record, my Ford Explorer's a/c is much less effective at idle or very low speeds. If your workhorse didn't have a house behind the cab I think you would find the a/c as effective as any other truck cab.

JC2 And what is the fuel burn of your generator per hour???? Sounds like you must have had a nice down hill trip with a good tail wind IMHO. I just don't think I get the kind of free lunch you described. Every time I've tried running my generator enroute as you describe my mpg goes down significantly.
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Old 07-29-2008, 02:15 PM   #6
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More info..

http://irv2.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/8626012545/m/...041019034#6041019034
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:38 AM   #7
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I increase my fuel mileage by using the Generator with the basement air... The exhaust from the Generator pushes the Motorhome forward ever so slightly you can hardly feel it, but it's there
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:47 AM   #8
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I also use the house air to cool down when the inside temps get to be uncomfortable. My Gennie only uses a couple of gallons, maybe 3 to 4 over a 12 to 15 hour period, very efficient. I measured it when I got the MH. Still fuel consumption on the readout system does not take into account the gennie fuel so my mpg is strickly from engine use and not the combo gennie and engine. I'm getting around 8.2 with the S-10 in tow. 36' 07 journey /31K on the east coast.
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:55 AM   #9
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We had the same problem when we had our Chieftain. If I remember, we were told it was a design problem with the location of the compressor in the Workhorse chassy. The warm air from the engine would overide the cool air. We used the house air when we needed it and just learned to live with it. I know this doesn't solve the problem, but might explain it.
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:56 AM   #10
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David;

My Chieftain acts just like yours. Pubtym says it clearly the way it is. When we get in to a city or campground where there is a wait we just fire up the central a/c.

Don
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:43 AM   #11
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I think it's inherent with the beast. Even cars will warm when going very slow or stopped. Like some of the others here I use my house air to keep cool. Works great and costs less.
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Old 07-31-2008, 11:39 AM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Paul T:
Mine acts just like yours does Daysu47. And, for the record, my Ford Explorer's a/c is much less effective at idle or very low speeds. If your workhorse didn't have a house behind the cab I think you would find the a/c as effective as any other truck cab.

JC2 And what is the fuel burn of your generator per hour???? Sounds like you must have had a nice down hill trip with a good tail wind IMHO. I just don't think I get the kind of free lunch you described. Every time I've tried running my generator enroute as you describe my mpg goes down significantly. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I guess you could say I was going downhill since we went down to Tx. Fortunately most of the terrain was relatively flat with little wind. Coming back a different way, the terrain was again pretty flat with a little tail wind. Most of the time we will get consistent 8-8.5 MPG unless we get into hills/wind then the MPG will drop to 7.5 +-. If I start pushing it consistently over 65, then the MPG will drop to between 7.5-8.0 MPG. Over all I've been pleased with the mileage using the gennie and roof air(s) and estimate the fuel usage to be between .5/.6 gal per hour. I'm sure some of this can be attributed to the following:
1. Engine oil/filter and gas/air filter changed at 1yr/5000 miles using conventional dino oil.
2. Ultra Power upgrade seemed to help with increased power and 3/4-1 MPG increase.
3. Using a light foot on the gas/brake pedals.
4. Taylor 409 plug wires.
5. AC 41-932 plugs gapped at .045.
6. Tire pressure @ 90# all around.
One thing I've always believed in is good/consistent maintence and it will pay off. I'm sure I do some things before they are due but the cost IMHO is worth it.
I could go on and on but I might jinx myself.
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Old 07-31-2008, 11:46 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Trek-Cyclist:
I increase my fuel mileage by using the Generator with the basement air... The exhaust from the Generator pushes the Motorhome forward ever so slightly you can hardly feel it, but it's there </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

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Old 07-31-2008, 12:55 PM   #14
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OK now compute your mileage using a pencil paper or calculator... Not the dash computer readout... Your mileage may very...I bet...
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