There are at least four different bui8old dates that may change some parts of the fresh water plumbing, but they all appear to be the same layout in this part of the fresh supply. You may want to verify this info by going to the plumbing and then fresh water here:
But I would not do much to mod the plumbing as it is only a one a year deal to add antifreeze. Jus t doesn't seem required for me?
On RV that have no siphon tube built in, I have used two different ways to get the antifreeze into the system. I have added it in the fresh tank and let the pump move it around.
The better method is to have a short length of hose to screw onto the fresh inlet port and just use a funnel to pour the antifreeze in and let it run to the tank. I always seem to have a junk hose that needs to be repurposed!
But if no junk on hand, just screwing the full length hose on the port, filling the hoes with anti and then "chase" it on through the full hose and into the tank will work. Just a bit more bother!
On your RV, one way to avoid needing lots more anti to get it to cover the outlet from the tank to the pump, you might consider parking so the RV front is an inch or so higher than the rear. The way the pump and plumbing are located on the rear wall of the tank, that slight slope will let you put less antifreeze in the tank and still get the pump to draw it out. Lifting the front even higher is not a problem, but just a bit of slope will help!
See if this drawing helps make sense of what I'm saying?
You want the RV semi-level left/ right and a bit higher at front so anti going in at bottom reaches the outgoing line right next to it!
Only hazard if not leveled is that more antifreeze may be left in tank but that is not always a problem as it is a somewhat small amount to drain and flush in the spring! RV antifreeze is safe for drinking but I don't like the "feel" for showers if I leave too much in there!