Where is black tank access panel on my 34H?

[Navvets52]

Trying to narrow this down...does anyone know where the access panel to the black tank vent pipe is on my 2005 Itasca Meridian 34H?
If this has separated from the black tank, it could be the problem...

 

[AveryF]

I'd love to know the answer to that, too. I tried to locate the black and grey tanks on my 2004 Itasca Sunrise 34D the other day to try and check the wiring for the level indicators but could never locate either of them from underneath the coach. Someone on another board said they were located between the chassis rails but I never did find them and surmised they were protected underneath from potential road damage by some sort of covering.

 

[Morich]

I might not expect an access but here are two snips from the parts catalog showing both those RV have 1 1/2 PVC with rubber grommets at the point they enter the tank. I might guess that these vent pipes will be in a hollow wall. Access possibly very difficult?
Black tank ID'd by using location of the stool as reference?

 

[Navvets52]

Thanks for the diagram. I was just hoping that there was an access panel of some sort...may have to tear out a wall, but didn’t want to unless necessary.

 

[Morich]

Don't confuse what I "think" as being the actual truth until somebody looks!!
There might actually be a panel to remove but since it is not a frequent thing we need to get to, I'm not expecting one. Just guessing!
But I might also see some real problems on getting to the grommet as that would seem to be the thing most likely to age and crack. The problem I might see is that the tank will be pretty close up against the floor and that leaves the pipe fit into the wall where the plastic fitting, rubber grommet and base of the wall get real close together.
de we get to cut out a big hole like 12X12 to cut the pipe, pull the bottom up out of the tank hoe to replace the grommet, or is it worse and the pipe, grommet and tank are more solidly attached, making us have to cut a big hole in the floor for space to work?
Sorry, just the worries I get into when looking at some new project of this type!
I can see it on drawings but not ever had to get in that far on fixing one. I've rebuilt a few old ones but never had to get involved with the tanks at that point.
So, trying to be a bit brighter and try to avoid the question, how sure are you that you do really HAVE to get to that?
Smells are kind of weird and I don't always get the right idea on which tank is smelling, so is there any chance it is the stool seal or even the grey tank smelling? Item 15 is an airgap item which is semi-famous for going bad so that it doesn't close well and lets fumes in. hint-Lots easier to fix!
Best of luck in the deal. We all need a break, now and then!

 

[Navvets52]

We replaced the cheater valves already, and the toilet is not leaking anywhere with anything wet. Could it still have a gas leak without any liquid leaking out? I would think you could smell the toilet at any time if it were seals; but, in any event, we have called a guy to come and look at it. Thanks for your info...��,

 

[Morich]

Hope for the best? Maybe they carry a bucket of magic --just for these types! Sure would be handy stuff to have.

 

[Oldchinahand]

Our rigs are very similar. I turn to the drawings often. They are suggestive but not always instructive.

Because I had to replace the black tank wash down vacuum breaker (in corner under the vanity sink) I have laid eyes and elbows on the grey water vent riser (opposite corner, in wall near one stop center)

I believe the black tank riser is inside wall between hall and toilet room near the fridge/pantry.

Before I started random wall demolition, I think I would get a positive location. One method would be to insert a long rod down the vent from the roof and rattle it around while you or your helper inside locates the sound.

Hmmmmm......As I think that through, you might want a rod long enough that you don't have to worry about dropping it and forever be explaining that wall rattle.

Not sure if simply locating the riser will get at your issue. The connection between riser and tank is beneath your floor.

Fair Winds and Following Seas

 

[Navvets52]

The problem was finally diagnosed correctly after a couple of RV tech visits. The plug/seal that goes into the black tank had worn away from a too-short floor flange going in through our toilet riser. Because the floor flange didn’t go far enough into the black tank seal, the vibrations from road travel and normal wear had loosened the sealant and caused a loosening to allow venting into the motor home. The tech fabricated a longer piece of PVC onto the floor flange that fit snugly down into the black tank seal. So, when obtaining a toilet riser, make sure your floor flange goes deep enough into the black tank seal...��

 

[Morich]

I had thought to mention pulling the stool as a semi-easy thing, just to try to avoid the trauma of cutting a wall.
But then I've also found that trying to give too much personal thought leads to one being called names! Seems the way we might talk person to person just doesn't work on forums!
Glad to hear you avoided the big BAD one!

 

[pobstlmo]

I have a 2004 IKS40WD my commode is next door to my washer/dryer, I removed the W/D because it had issues, behind it was the vent pipe to the roof. If you don’t have a W/D then that is probably a cabinet and the rear wall inside will need to be removed. Also I have a drawer on the floor which the W/D sits above, if you have one of those pull it out and look behind it.
I also noticed the inside of the coach is open to the wet bay, probably for winter heat to warm the wet bay, let cold drafts into the coach and bugs when I’m flushing the tanks. Now I know how the mosquitoes get in.
Best of luck