What screws for the bedroom interior roof to hang a cord?

Jujubeadz

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Joined
Jul 19, 2023
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18
I have a cord that’s in a double sided tape plastic cord hider, that keeps falling no matter what type of tape I use. So screws is the only option.

2019 Minnie Winnie 31. If anyone is wondering it’s the 2nd ac I added to the bedroom and this is the 30amp cord going to the wall to eventually to the outside wall 30amp plug.

The question is, Amy idea what screws work best and how long?
 
Here are a few pictures. It’s the 90d corner piece that will not stay attached as the 30amp romex is heavy
 

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What do you expect to be screwing into? It’s just styrofoam. Tape, glue are likely the only choice for something that heavy. VHB tape along the entire length of the cord, and then firmly secured at the top of the nearest wall so that nothing pulls down on the cord??
 
What do you expect to be screwing into? It’s just styrofoam. Tape, glue are likely the only choice for something that heavy. VHB tape along the entire length of the cord, and then firmly secured at the top of the nearest wall so that nothing pulls down on the cord??
Good point. I thought about what was there. It doesn’t red much as the tape is along the entire cord, just needs a little help. I’m guessing where other items are attached to the roof with screws is attached to a brace or something that helps.
 
Two big problems with attaching to RV ceilings. One is the material is so thin, screws are not getting much grip. Tape is often just hanging onto the surface they put on for appearance and pull that first layer off.
I might think it needs "special" attention!
One way might be to use some form of short expanding fastener. One might due for that corner?
Depends on how you want to deal with this! A first thought if trial and error is okay, is to try a short plastic anchor first as they are less damage to ceiling if they fail!
A short anchor and short screw, may get it done to hold a good long time.
But a bit more sure to work the first time but also harder to redo is a molly bolt of really small short size.
If not familiar with them, they are kind of the standard for work on sheet rock, etc. that tends to crumble and not hold. Small and short is needed to avoid going to far and creating damage on the outside to leak!
Make a hole just large enough to fit the molly in, screw the "bolt" down to expand the molly inside the wall. avoid going to far and "feel" when it gets fully expanded and STOP before stripping the threads. Back the bolt out and add the strip for final.
These work okay in foam as the fingers on the molly just press into the foam without much trouble. Kind of tricky if not used to mollies as it take a bit of "feel" for how far to go before stripping them!
But once done right, they expand about 3/4 inch wide inside and hold really well.
:mad: RV ceilings are not really nice to work!!
 
I like that idea. So as long as I stay under 2” I should not pop thru the fiberglass roof.
 
Are you familial with the mollies?
They are one that I used a lot of when hanging telephones on walls like sheetrock or paneling and they can work really well.
But your case is really kind of strange, so I suggest some care!
I think of the ceilings as pretty close to wall paper on cardboard!
you need a small hole to fit the molly in but I might first suggest something thin like a nail, etc. to push up and "feel" gently for how far you can get in without going through the roof!
then once you know for sure how much space you have to work in, you can decide on the length of molly to fit.

You really need enough depth to let the molly go in but NOT push through to the outside!

Good luck on the deal. It can get tricky for our big old rigs that are so close to paper houses!
 
you need a small hole to fit the molly in but I might first suggest something thin like a nail, etc. to push up and "feel" gently for how far you can get in without going through the roof!
Actually, that roof thickness and structure is totally knowable without probing. Removing the trim from a ceiling fan, skylight or A/C will reveal that exact thickness of the roof.
 
Actually, that roof thickness and structure is totally knowable without probing. Removing the trim from a ceiling fan, skylight or A/C will reveal that exact thickness of the roof.
Yes I see the thickness, I’ll post the pics of it completed. Adding the 2nd ac to a 30amp class c was a challenge but it runs like a champ. Although I need either 20-30- or 50 at the sites as the rear ac has soft start and will run off 20 with no issues so far.
 
I would normally say the ceiling is thick enough foam to not be a problem but when we're talking about potentially punching a hole through the roof, I get very careful and don't recommend any fast decisions!
One of the problems with forums is we rarely get a good feel of who is on the other end of a post.
Maybe Juju knows all that stuff about mollies and being careful but I would rather risk insulting them by telling them too much if the other choice causes them to drill a hole in their roof!
 
Good point. I’ve got my hammer drill loaded with the 12” concrete bit. I’m thinking it should work. Thanks everyone
 
That hammer drill and concrete bit is waaay overkill for drilling through 1/8" ceiling paneling. A ¼" drill and standard drill-bit is fine.
I used moly anchors for 1/8" paneling.
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Those with a tip are fine if we are just driving them into sheetrock without making a hole first but they are a problem when we have to get a short one into a space as the yellow tip makes the overall length longer than if we use the type without the "Nice" parts they added for the DIY folks who may not have a drill !
In an RV, I expect to find such thin stuff that I use a screwdriver to make the hole! Just breathing on the ceiling may make a hole!
 
Whatever you do put that hammer drill and concrete bit away unless you want an oversized, wallowed out hole. A regular drill with a regular bit like Ray recommended.

Start small when working in soft materials, you want to keep the hole tight to prevent the anchor from spinning out. You also want to use a hand screwdriver and gently tighten down , no power driver! Once the anchor starts to spin you are usually SOL.

For soft material I like this type of anchor which there are many variations:

wall anchor.jpg
 
Good point. I’ve got my hammer drill loaded with the 12” concrete bit. I’m thinking it should work. Thanks everyone
Don't forget the water for the lubrication!
That hammer drill and concrete bit is waaay overkill for drilling through 1/8" ceiling paneling. A ¼" drill and standard drill-bit is fine.
I used moly anchors for 1/8" paneling.
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I think the sarcasm went over your head.
 

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