What is This?

[Kazoo Tom-WO]

The below photo was taken from the front of my '98 Brave looking back at the left side of the radiator/fan.

The silver box looks like it might be a breaker of some sort, but all the printing is gone from the label. Below the box is a white and light blu wire. The wires look like they were once attached to the box (breaker?) but are now partially stripped and twisted together. The heavier of the wires is from the wiring harness, the other goes back into the wheel well and in the general direction of the electric steps. Can anyone please help identify the box and where the wires may go to?

linked to Workhorse Chassis Forum

 

[Kazoo Tom-WO]

The below photo was taken from the front of my '98 Brave looking back at the left side of the radiator/fan.

The silver box looks like it might be a breaker of some sort, but all the printing is gone from the label. Below the box is a white and light blu wire. The wires look like they were once attached to the box (breaker?) but are now partially stripped and twisted together. The heavier of the wires is from the wiring harness, the other goes back into the wheel well and in the general direction of the electric steps. Can anyone please help identify the box and where the wires may go to?

linked to Workhorse Chassis Forum

 

[Horsepowerfan]

Hi Tom,

I'm pretty sure that the little silver box contains a thermal cutoff switch for your chassis (dash) A/C system. My guess is that it failed and was causing the A/C compressor to not engage. Consequently someone bypassed it (by disconnecting the wires and twisting them together) to make the A/C work.

Regarding the wiring, I'm making an educated guess here: the wire coming from the electric step area is most likely the power feed, coming from where the batteries and relays and circuit breakers are; the heavier wire going into the wiring harness most likely goes to the A/C compressor control relay.

The solid copper wire going off the left side of the silver box is a temperature probe. It should go up into the bottom of the evaporator core housing and be attached to one of the evaporator core pipes to sense the temperature. The switch is supposed to open the circuit to the A/C compressor when the temperature of the evaporator core is slightly above freezing. This will prevent the condensation on the evaporator core from freezing, which would restrict the airflow through the core.

Your dash A/C may work just fine this way. However, if air stops flowing from the vents, you should turn off the A/C, which will shut off the compressor, allowing the evaporator core to warm up, thereby thawing the ice which has formed on the cooling fins. The cutoff switch is designed to do this automatically for you.

I hope I've explained this in a manner in which you can understand it!

 

[Kazoo Tom-WO]

Thanks for the explanation. It sounds like an item that would be better if it were replaced rather than continuing this way. Now I just need to find the part. If I take it off and run to the NAPA store is it likely they will have something like it, or do I need to go to a GM dealer to get it?

 

[Horsepowerfan]

I agree that it should probably be replaced. Unfortunately, these dash air systems fall into a sort of gray area. For this particular part you may be able to match something up at NAPA, but as a GM Dealer Technician, I don't think this is something a GM dealer is going to carry. You probably will have to get the part at an RV dealer. The reason I think that is because I believe the evaporator core and housing are manufactured by Evans Tempcon www.evanstempcon.com.

Good luck and cool travels!

 

[Kazoo Tom-WO]

Thanks again for your prompt reply, I'll do some checking around

 

[rogueii]

Horsepowerfan;;
Good explanation---that is what I love about this site. The information exchange is great. The labor cost here in FL are $100 to $110 per hour and God only knows how long it would take the dealer to figure it out.

 

[Tom N]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> The labor cost here in FL are $100 to $110 per hour </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Labor at Suncoast RV in Ocala, FL is $85 an hour.

Tom

 

[rogueii]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> The labor cost here in FL are $100 to $110 per hour </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Labor at Suncoast RV in Ocala, FL is $85 an hour.

Tom </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
South of Tampa-- Ft Myers area $110 per hour--read complaints in post about 4 months ago.
National RV will do non warranty work at the Service ctr in Lakeland, during the summer.---Their Labor charge just went from $65 to $85 per hour
They are all catching up. OIL & Filter $ 85.00 Plus---I don't think so.

 

[Kazoo Tom-WO]

Horsepowerfan,

That really is a good explanation, and you are probably correct. I will be checking into a replacement for the little silver box.

A while back I got a response from Winnebago that stated the supplier of this unit is "SCS". I have been checking the web but can't locate a site for the company, any ideas?

 

[NeilV]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Kazoo Tom:
Horsepowerfan,

That really is a good explanation, and you are probably correct. I will be checking into a replacement for the little silver box.

A while back I got a response from Winnebago that stated the supplier of this unit is "SCS". I have been checking the web but can't locate a site for the company, any ideas? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Here you go:

http://www.scsfrigette.com/html/home/index.htm

Regards,

Neil

 

[Kazoo Tom-WO]

Thank you Neil, that's just what I was looking for.

 

[Mahlon]

If you get a replacement thermo switch from AutoNAPAAdvancePartsZone, make sure that it is designed for whatever refrigerant your system uses: R-12 or R-134a. To find out, look at the service valves; R-12 valves look like flare fittings with Schrader valves in them, while R-134a valves look like quick-disconnect fittings, also with Schrader valves.

Ensure that the replacement switch's thermo bulb is clamped snug onto the evaporator tail pipe and insulated, just the way you found it.

Running the system without the thermo switch will probably result in the evaporator icing up, as mentioned earlier. So you want to replace it.

 

[Kazoo Tom-WO]

Mahlon,

thanks for the additional information. I believe the system is R-134a. I will definately mention this to the parts guy. I will likely take the old switch in to assist them in matching it.

I also need to get a resistor pack for the heater-a/c assembly as I can't get enough airflow thru the system to freeze anything right now. I am discovering lots and lots of little things that need attention.