Water pressure

no18yes

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2001
Posts
200
hooked up to 60+ water source, and all I get inside is a moderate flow? It is below what the pressure regulator even allows. This just started. We had good pressure at the last campground and now a slow flow. I unhooked the hose from the rig with the pressure regulator attached. Good strong flow. Attached to the MH I noticed is another valve control that when pushed releases a little "air."
That whole thing is attached to pvc and all behing the metal facia plated and I don't even want to go there. Could it be that regulator? Has any one had a pressure problem??
 
hooked up to 60+ water source, and all I get inside is a moderate flow? It is below what the pressure regulator even allows. This just started. We had good pressure at the last campground and now a slow flow. I unhooked the hose from the rig with the pressure regulator attached. Good strong flow. Attached to the MH I noticed is another valve control that when pushed releases a little "air."
That whole thing is attached to pvc and all behing the metal facia plated and I don't even want to go there. Could it be that regulator? Has any one had a pressure problem??
 
If you have good water flow w/o the pressure regulator ...and poor flow with it ...the "regulator" is plugged. The cheap ones plug frequently in my experience. After 2 or 3 going bad on me, I went to Lowes and bought a whole house regulator (it is a true regulator rather than a flow restrictor like the cheap "regulators") and fittings to attach it to the hydrant and my hose. It works great.
 
It sounds like you have a flow restrictor rather than a pressure regulator. If it cost around $10 or so and is a small diameter brass gadget then you have a restrictor.

If you want to build a pressure regulator that will work on your RV here's what you'll need:
1 Watts model 70 P/N 34/70 (or equivalent) 3/4" pressure reducing valve.

1 brass male hose to 3/4" MIP adapter, Watts #A 665.

1 brass female hose to 3/4" FIP swivel, Watts #A 661.

1 brass 3/4" close nipple Watts #A 877.

1 roll of Teflon tape.

Put the pieces together and you will have plenty of water pressure, great flow and your plumbing will be protected. Piece of cake.
 
It probably would have been helpful if I had mentioned that you can get those parts at Home Depot, Lowes, OSH, Tru Value, Ace or a plumbing supply store.
 
Fellows, I took the hose off with the regulator still attached and turned on the facet at the source and water shot out of the regulator just fine. So it is not pluged. I am not sure what type of regulator I have but it is a brass one.??
 
Is your water pressure poor at all faucets? If just at the sink, you might check that under-sink filter. Forget the brand name at the moment, but ours plugged up in less than a year, severely restricting cold water flow.

I've long since bypassed that, and installed an external water filter.
 
This may help...I am currently at the IRV2 rally and when I arrived and hooked up, I had no water pressure. I soon found that the back flow preventer attached to the water inlet on the metal facia was the trouble. The spring mechanism in the backflow preventer was jammed like it did on my 2 prior motorhomes. I removed the BF preventer and installed a manual valve.
 
FLYTYER, that is where I chased down the trouble to, but how did you replace the back flow device? I started to and found out that it was connected to PVC behind the facia plate and decided that it was a project to tackle when I get home. I can live with the low pressure until then. Where do you get replacements of the type that you described (Manual valve) and what is the "manual valve?" questions, questions....txs for the input.
 
City Water Check Valve

Look at this link; might help you...

icon_biggrin.gif
 
I may be senile, but I don't understand what you are preventing from back flowing.
Something from in the coach back into the water supply?
Or something from the water supply into the coach.. I haven't used a back flo preventor. Good miles,
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by no18yes:
FLYTYER, that is where I chased down the trouble to, but how did you replace the back flow device? I started to and found out that it was connected to PVC behind the facia plate and decided that it was a project to tackle when I get home. I can live with the low pressure until then. Where do you get replacements of the type that you described (Manual valve) and what is the "manual valve?" questions, questions....txs for the input. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I may have mislead you somewhat, so...I removed the backflow preventer by loosening the coupling to the preventer behind the facia. This is little tricky since you really cannot see it. I used a mirror to see and understand which coupling to loosen.

Then I removed the valve by removing the 2 SS screws on the mounting plate. Next I just removed the guts of the valve. Then I just remounted the valve (less its innards) and attached the coupling. There may be a plastic seal which if not positioned correctly will allow water to leak from the coupling.

The manual valve is a gargen hose type valve (plastic or brass) which has a small knob or lever on the side to turn it on or off. You can get one at Wal-Mart, Loews, Home Depot, etc..

For "ichn2go"...the backflow preventer is used to stop the flow of water out of the coach into a campground or city water system. Most RV's have them and until a problem develops most of us never know such a device is there. Many areas of the country have such requirements on connections to their water systems.

There is also usually a backflow preventer on the output of your hot water heater.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">What pressure did you set your regulator at? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
It was pre-set at 50psi, and I left it there.
 

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