RV_Lee
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2022
- Posts
- 236
Part of the story that is not mentioned enough?
When we store and think we have done it all right by hitting the battery disconnect switch/switches, we need to keep in mind that DOES NOT remove all the loads on either battery if we don't do something special.
It's not a big load on either coach or chassis BUT if we give even that tiny load long enough, it does get the battery totally flat!
There are two groups of loads on both the coach and chassis batteries, one group after the cutoff relay and another for safety items which are BEFORE the relay and that last group stays connected even when the relay is open!
The only way to fully disconnect the loads from either battery group is to totally disconnect the battery.
Since I never like to get down and dirty with removing the battery cables, I set up some form of disconnect switch designed for that big heavy cable and put it in the negative cable.
Big reason I put it in the negative side is for safety when
I work on anything near the battery. If I happen to whack a wrench on something metal while it is on the positive connections, nothing happens if the negative is open!
If I do the same with the negative connected, I may burn up the wrench!
On your Aspect, I see no disconnect on the chassis side, so no convenient way to disconnect any of the chassis loads if one is not added. Radio presets, door locks, ignition are all light loads to kill the chassis battery slowly!
The price we may pay for the convenience of all the automatic stuff?![]()
I really should have disconnected the negative terminal but it was "kinda" a blessing in disguise. I do a lot of desert boondocking and the last thing I want is an 8~ year old chassis battery to give me issues after sitting out there a week or so. It now has a brand spankin' new Duralast