Spongy Brakes, ABS light 2006 Itasca Sunova 26P

GPanek

Advanced Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2017
Posts
37
Location
Colfax, CA
I have a 2006 Itasca Sunova 26P Class A, Workhorse chassis. After about an hour on the freeway I turned off onto a surface street and found I had to pump the brakes. Soft and spongy. They would stop the MH but only after pumping. Very scary. I stopped and checked that I had plenty of brake fluid in both reservoirs. When I arrived at our destination the ABS light came on. So I took out an ABS fuse and replaced it, sort of a reboot. Let the vehicle sit for four days while we camped. And by the time I left the brakes were solid again and shortly after driving a mile the ABS light went out. No leaks anywhere. The only thing I could think of was really old, contaminated brake fluid. So I replaced all the fluid when I got home. Had to run about 4 qts thru. ABS lite came on at first but went out after driving a couple hundred yards. Had the brake pads checked recently and all had plenty of depth. Any ideas on what it might have been if not the old fluid? Thanks
 
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I don't know if I have hydro-boost or not. I do know, there was no steering gear or pump installed recently. I certainly can do the procedure in the link you provided to see if that helps. They refer to fluid level in the pump. Is that referring to power steering fluid or brake fluid? Anyway, thanks for the tip, I will give it a try.
 
The hydro-boost uses the same power-steering fluid as the power steering.
Here is another pdf instruction on bleeding/purging air from the Hydro-boost system:

https://my.cardone.com/techdocs/pt%2052-0001.pdf
This a GM hydro-boost unit and its location:
iu
 
Sep 21, 2017 — Have you had the Bosch brake recall (50901-C) performed? Workhorse will replace all 4 calipers at no charge. This recall covers a symptoms you seem to have.
 
Workhorse chassis; does it have the hydro-boost/hydro-vac brake booster Chevy used? When mine went bad on my Chevy 1T truck that was the way my brakes acted.
When you replaced the brake fluid, the Hydro-boost requires special equipment or the shade-tree method:

Hydro-boost braking system bleeding instructions..
I think my hydraulic brakes may need this done, ty for the info. Trying to figure out why they don't engage, when I press the pedal it makes a knocking sound like its trying. the trans fluid was low so I filled it, but they still don't work. And the brake light is still on. Trying to trouble shoot and figure out what's wrong and get them working again. Is there a pressure differential reset switch? How do I check to see if both lines are getting fluid equally? I have a 1987 winnebago itasca suncruiser, chevy 454 chassis. I have been told my chassis is the same as a chevy truck to work on. TIA
 
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Some general ideas but not up on the way to do it?
The newer systems have a fluid reservoir that is divided. One half for front and the other for the rear wheels.
In between those two sections that we might call two tanks, there is a sensor that is supposed to be set so it is centered, not touching front or back if we can figure that? The safety idea is that when some small leak start, it will be on the front or rear and as the fluid leaks out, the sensor moves due to uneven pressure and that turns the alarm light on at the dash! It lets us know we are beginning to have a fluid leak problem and it does it before we totally lose either front or rear brakes.
We can still have two of four wheels stop us but it is not as good and solid.
But if the fluid gets too low, air will get into the brake lines from the front master cylinder to some of the brake lines and the wheels.
When you say the brakes are not as good and they feel spongy, that says something is losing fluid and there is air in the system. Since air can be squeezed, that if why it feels spongy as you get some of the pressure to the wheels but some of your pressure is used up squeezing air!

The solution is finding where fluid was leaking out and fix that as a first step. It is possible to spot it sometimes if we look under the "truck" at the inside of the wheels. One of the common places to leak is at each wheel where there is a wheel cylinder. The wheel cylinder has arms that stick out and move the brake pads to press again the wheel to stop it.
You step on the brake pedal and it moves fluid from the master cylinder to each wheel and moves things to press the brake shoes or pads to stop us!
The problem is that there are rubber type seals at each wheel to let things move but not leak. Until they get worn! if there is a leak at the wheel, it often winds up throwing brake fluid out on the inside surface of the wheel and tires. If we look under and a wheel has an oily coating on the inside, that is the major clue!

If fluid was leaking and more added, there may still be a leak but to get things fixed we have to find and fix the leak and then as part of getting it back to normal, there is some method to recenter that sensor so it is not touching front nor back.
Way back the idea was to watch the light while somebody underneath let just a tiny amount of fluid out to recenter the alarm sensor. But that was about a hundred years back and I would expect to find it different now??

In my thinking, this is a time to go for the pro truck guys as it is important to get it right. Going around with only half the brakes working is not good! I would try to take it by some of the smaller repair places that do brake work and just let them guide you on what it needs.
 

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