Smlranger- I used the middle setting, front and back as I was trying to eliminate the sway and rock and roll going in and out of driveways. But it did seem a little firm in the front so I slid under the coach, pulled out the lower bolt, collapsed the shock and set it back to the factory setting, pulled the lower end back down and re-installed the lower bolt. Very easy, probably 10-15 minutes each shock. Now the rears would probably be another story if they needed it but the middle setting seems to work on them. I had read an earlier post that said he started with the factory setting and couldn't tell he had even installed new shocks so went to a heavier setting, was the reason I started with the middle. 10-4 on the installation of gas shocks where you have to actually compress them. Did that on my 1997 Fleetwood and really had fun. Good luck on your installation and nice to know you only have to cut off one bolt head, its not really hard but just a little cramped quarters trying to watch where you are cutting and making sure you don't slip and cut something you don't want to. Back to the rears, by raising the rear by the jacks and supporting the frame there is enough space over the top of the rear duals to reach the top shock bracket but it still works best to have someone underneigth while someone reaches over the top of the tire to manage the top of the shock. I wasn't sure I wanted to have my arm between the tire and the fender and told my mechanic so, but he said with the frame supported he wouldn't be in that position very long. It lots better and easier than taking off the rear duals (and he didn't have any thing that would torgue them back at 450 lbs ft.
Hope all this helps.
Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G
