Several electrical failures on 2022 Micro Minnie FLX 2100BH

[erebossen]

We are troubleshooting several electrical failures on our 2022 Winnebago Micro Minnie FLX 2100BH and are hoping someone familiar with the factory FLX wiring can help us identify the common connection.

What still works​

• Interior 12V lights
• Lithionics battery system
• Xantrex inverter/charger
• Solar system appears operational
• 250A main battery breaker appears operational

What does not work​

• Electric tongue jack
• Trailer brakes through the truck brake controller
• Running lights
• Turn signals and brake lights
• 12V charging power from the truck through the 7-pin

When the truck is plugged into the trailer, we appear to get no power through the 7-pin system.

What we have checked​

• Truck-side trailer fuses
• Trailer 7-pin plug
• Front junction box and visible wire connections
• White ground wiring near the junction box
• 250A battery/inverter breaker
• Tongue-jack inline fuse
• Voltage/current at the tongue-jack fuse
• Breakaway-switch wiring
• Front terminal strip and exposed wiring underneath the A-frame

The tongue-jack fuse has power, but the jack remains dead. We still need to confirm whether the jack receives full voltage while the switch is pressed, rather than only measuring the unloaded circuit.
We found forum references to:

• a 30A mini thermal breaker on or near the tongue, and
• exposed frame-mounted breakers that can fail or corrode because of road spray.

We have located the front terminal/breaker area, but we are not certain which component feeds which circuit or whether any of the breakers have hidden manual-reset buttons.

What we need help identifying​

1. Where is the factory 30A thermal or mini breaker located on the 2022 FLX 2100BH?
2. Which breaker feeds the tongue jack?
3. Where does the 7-pin auxiliary-charge wire enter the Lithionics battery/DC system?
4. Is there a shared front-frame ground, feed, breaker, or terminal connection that could disable the jack, brakes, exterior lights, and 7-pin charging while leaving the interior 12V system working?
5. Does anyone have the factory 12V and 7-pin wiring diagrams for this exact model?
6. Has anyone moved the exposed breakers into the front storage compartment to protect them from water and road debris?

We have clear photos of the junction box, 7-pin wiring, battery compartment, Xantrex equipment, 250A breaker, tongue-jack fuse, breakaway switch, and the exposed front terminal/breaker assembly.
We are not towing the trailer until the brake and exterior-light circuits are restored.

 

[Morich]

I do not have definite help in the way of ID for which parts doing what. However, this is a frequent flyer for complaints as the wiring location is super bad! Not done it myself so serius lack of solid info but I do know that the wiringunder the front on the frame is a real problem to sorty as some of those red baxes are different than others. Some are mini resettable breakers while others may not be the same. There are times when there are connections for all three things you mention, trailer lights, interior lights and the jack as well, leaving it a real mess to figure for each specific trailer. Some also have a metal electrical box that has a real issue built in. Some of the trailer group have found there is a lot of wire mashed into too little space and buried under that stack of wire inside the box, they have found a mini breaker atteched at the bottom of the box, fully hiding out of sight until we have insisted thety have to go look AGAIN!
Sorry thast I can't be more specific on help like a wiring diagram but I have not had the trailer and only read about the problem!
We can hope that somebody who has fought the fight comes along shortly but from reading other posts, some do the full blown trauma of moving this set of wiring into a weather tight setup!
Some have posted "homemade" drawings of what they found on their trailer but that would also cut the odds of their trailer being wired the same as what you have!
My best info might be to alert you that some of those red boxes are breakers of various types and they may be open until you find a tiny reset button on the side of each? If you have the one in the metal box, you may assume I have lost my mind before finding the tiny button on the side!!

 

[Morich]

Note?
Post 5 of this group may have some more info on the wiring question, more as example, perhaps?

Inspecting a 2022 Micro Minnie FLX 2108FBS

I’m going to do an inspection on a 2022 Minnie Winnie 2108 fbs that’s also a Flx edition. I’ve only seen it in photos and I’m looking forward to checking it out in person. I was wondering if if there are problems particular to this model that I need to check out. I’m new to the RV world but I...

www.winnieowners.com

They also give some info on how to get factory info that is certain to be better than what I have!
Wish you luck on the trek!

 

[l1v3fr33ord1]

erebossen-

These PDF documents, with diagrams, may apply to your trailer:

Winnebago Micro Minnie FLX Electrical System
Winnebago Micro Minnie FLX Electrical System - Part 1

This thread may be of general help:

Micro Minnie 2108 FLX Electrical System Newbie Question

As far as testing goes, I would start with the lights on the trailer. This should be pretty simple, as a camper trailer should be no different than a utility trailer for the lights. See this link for trailer wiring.

Start at the truck's 7-pin hitch connector. Make sure you get the signals there (on the correct pins). Next, attach the umbilical. Make sure you get the signals at the trailer end (on the correct pins). Next detach the umbilical and test the trailer by itself. I would set a voltmeter on "continuity" and check the wiring between the trailer 7-pin connector and the trailer tail lights. If the wiring is not "continuous" between those points, follow the wiring from the trailer 7-pin connector to the next termination in the direction of the lights and check for continuity there. You should eventually track down where the break or loss of voltage occurs.

Note: One thing that can make any 12V system behave oddly is a poor or intermittent ground. I'd very carefully check that the trailer 7-pin connector ground wire is fully attached to a suitable spot (bare metal) on the frame. I'd also check that the truck's 7-pin connector is attached, and that the ground wire passes through the umbilical without any breaks or corrosion. You should be able to run a successful continuity check (and a check that no voltage differential exists) from the truck ground to the trailer ground with the trailer disconnected from the hitch ball but connected by the umbilical.

 

[cvhorton]

Check the inline circuit breakers that are on the inside of the left frame rail. On ours these were all installed in a plastic holder that was upside down making it hold water which put circuit breakers underwater. Had similar issues to you. Had to replace multiple circuit breakers. I flipped plastic holder over so it protects breakers from water draining on them.

 

[PanFam]

I experienced similar issues with my 2024.(Non-FLX). I'm toeing with a 2021 F-150. I finally figured out I needed to turn my headlights ON rather than AUTO. That "fixed" my lighting problems (and the pre-wired trailer back up cam).

Tongue jack was a separate issue. I had the same symptoms. What finally fixed it for me was really cleaning the inline fuse, bending the fuse receptacle to make secure connection, packing it with dielectric grease and securing the cover cap with a Velcro strap. Basically my issue turned out to be corrosion and a weak physical connection.

Hope it turns out to be an easy fix.

 

[Steph-WO]

first, the FLX is wired vert differently than any other Micro Minnie.

• electric tongue jack
• Trailer brakes through the truck brake controller
• Running lights
• Turn signals and brake lights
• 12V charging power from the truck through the 7-pin

All of these functions are related to the wiring attached to the lugs that are on the tongue. These are not breakers on the FLX. They are just lugs that either + or - wires are attached to. First the FLX does not pass charging through the 7 PIN.

Next, this could really be related to the 4x4 metal box that is just behind the tongue. This is the main ground for the entire trailer plus it is where all the 7 pin connections are made.

• The & Pin Harness Enters
• All lighting circuits splice there
• The brake controller wire splices there
• The ground from the truck bonds to the trailer frame
• The tongue jack’s negative return bonds there
• The breakaway switch ties in
• The stud block wires pass through it

If that box loses ground continuity or one of the splices fail, you get exactly what your seeing.

The FLX does not have individual breakers for the different subsystems. It has the main 250A breaker and that is it. even the solar controller does not have separate breaker. On lug 1 you will see a wire coming from above connected to the tope lug. This is the power for the solar Controller.

So I do believe this goes back to the 4x4 metal box behind the tongue. One thing to note is that even the main negative from the house comes into this box. That wire is then split and connected to lug 4 Upper of the lug bar. Because this is a small box with a mini screw Bus, there is no way a #6 negative would fit. I my case they trimmed the wire by at least 1/3 to make it fit. Right, there is a big issue.

I am pretty certain your issue is related to the junction box or the ground. You may say what about the Tongue Jack. The Jack use the trailer battery positive (from stud block) and the trailer frame negative from 4×4 box ground bond. This just reinforces it is a junction box issue.

I had multiple crazy electrical issue and have spent hours figuring out the FLX wiring. I no longer have any wires on the Lugs and the little 4x4 box has been replace by a water tight box with a lug Bus. No issue at all since.

Happy to chat privately if you want

 

[Morich]

Quote:
The FLX does not have individual breakers for the different subsystems. It has the main 250A breaker and that is it. even the solar controller does not have separate breaker.

IF this is true, consider what happens if a small part like a light gets a short and that light works on some smallish wire like less than 12 gauge? My logic says that small wire is going up in a puff of smoke long before a 250 amp breaker shuts it down!
Not a plan I would want to sleep in!
I suspect there are some points being missed!

 

[Steph-WO]

Sorry, should have been more specific. The 250A breaker controls everything in the Pass through. Battery, Inverter, and Solar Controller. The power for all the devices on the tongue lug is also supplied through that breaker. That would be the slide, stabilizer jacks, break away switch, and tongue Jack. None of the devices that the 250 breaker powers have their own breaker. The wire sizes vary from 2.0 for the inverter down to #12. At least on my FLX and the only other one I have seen the 250A breaker is upstream of all these devices. The only exception would be the Tongue jack, it has a 20a in-line fuse under the tongue and sometimes the solar controller as an in-line fuse.

A simple way of saying this is the tongue lug block is acting as an unprotected distribution point. or put another way. Winnebago did protect the low‑draw interior circuits in the DC panel. But they did not protect the high‑draw exterior circuits. Those circuits were left raw.

I have moved everything inside with individual breakers. I know some people who have added in-line fuses.

Again, this is for the FLX only. From reading other posts it seems the Micro Minnie has actual fuses on the tongue the wires are connected to.

 

[Goodspike]

Without thinking about this a great deal, if your tongue jack is not working and that fuse is okay, the likely culprit is the battery ground. Either at the battery terminal or the point it connects to the trailer frame. Not clear though why that would affect your running lights and such, unless that bad ground point shares the ground with those devices.

 

[Steph-WO]

They do all share the same ground. It is located in the 4x4 metal box mounted on the frame just behind the main cross beam by the tongue. All the 7Pin wires come into this box.

 

[Goodspike]

I was going with ground too, but I doubt the battery ground connects in that same box, as opposed to just part of the frame almost anywhere. And if it connects to the frame the tongue jack should work if that connection is good. But maybe I'm wrong on that, I don't remember my own trailer. If the grounds all connect at same exact spot that would explain all the issues.

BTW, one thing the OP could do to test is use a multimeter to check for continuity between the positive battery terminal and the RV frame.

 

[Steph-WO]

The FLX has two separate ground systems. One is the inverter + lithium system which uses a its own heavy chassis bond. This is a 2.0 wire. The second ground system is the metal junction box behind the Tongue. This us where the main #6 negative for the DC system is located. It is also extended to lug 1 of the connection bar on the tongue so that those wires are tied to ground. All of the 7 PIN grounds are also in the same junction box and all connected to the same BUS as the main DC ground.

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