SeaLand Toilet Leak

[BugSlayer]

Looking to learn from your experience here. First trip of the year found the rug around the toilet wet. Found today that the leak appears to be from the fresh water feed line which supplies fresh water to the bowl when the foot pedal is lifted. This is next to impossible to see or get to because it is up in the rear most portion of the bowl casting but it appears to have some sort of screw activated band clamp holding two lines together (obviously one is the fresh water feed, not sure what the other is)?

The question, is there a way to get to or see this stuff without using mirrors or curling around the bowl (not much room for the fully optioned American male) or removing the entire toilet from the floor?

I found my manual today but it was wrapped around the feed line for fresh water and completely soaked! If it dries out I can look stuff up but right now it is useless!

The toilet is a SeaLand, the coach is an '05 Journey. Thanks for any advice.

Russ

 

[BugSlayer]

Looking to learn from your experience here. First trip of the year found the rug around the toilet wet. Found today that the leak appears to be from the fresh water feed line which supplies fresh water to the bowl when the foot pedal is lifted. This is next to impossible to see or get to because it is up in the rear most portion of the bowl casting but it appears to have some sort of screw activated band clamp holding two lines together (obviously one is the fresh water feed, not sure what the other is)?

The question, is there a way to get to or see this stuff without using mirrors or curling around the bowl (not much room for the fully optioned American male) or removing the entire toilet from the floor?

I found my manual today but it was wrapped around the feed line for fresh water and completely soaked! If it dries out I can look stuff up but right now it is useless!

The toilet is a SeaLand, the coach is an '05 Journey. Thanks for any advice.

Russ

 

["007"]

Russ, are you sure its the pipe, around the toilet you have a steel band that tightens the upper bowl to floor mounting if this isn't tight water will seep out of bowl when you flush. If it is the pipe the pipe nut maybe cross threaded or needs some teflon tape around threads. Don't fiddle with bands or we will need some pipe clamps.

"007"

 

[TheRVGuy-WO]

Russ,

You may want to remove the pedal cover and look at the water valve as it is more typical the problem on a SeaLand. To do so, you will find that the inside (closest to the toilet)of the pedal has two screws that simply hold a plate against the actual pedal cover. Remove those screws, remove the plate and then you can see the rod that the pedal cover is actually attached to. Remove the cover by sliding it off the rod (move away from the bowl)thus exposing the pedal, water valve and hose connections. On the bottom of the valve there is a large hex cap that looks like a nut. While there is no adjustment this makes a common reference point for discussion. If the bottom of that nut is wet, you probably have a bad valve and you are now in position to change it out. In any condition, I would suggest that you cycle the pedal, both through flushes and through bowl filling several times while observing this area. You'll probably find your leak. If not, feel free to contact me and I'll walk you through the next process of discovery.

Have fun,

Mike

 

[BugSlayer]

007 & Mike, Thanks for the quick response. I have not yet removed the cover (waiting for stuff to dry a little) but I can see the water when I am filling with fresh water, leaking from the connection which is at the highest and rearmost connection. To try to say it in another way, the connection that is just on the other side (under)of the bowl from the seat hinges. I have verified by sight and operating the foot pedal that this us the source.

As this area is very tight and this leak was not present or maybe not noticible for the first year, I suspect something froze and cracked over the winter (not likely as I blew the lines and used antifreeze, running it into the bowl) or has simply come loose? Have you guys been able to successfully work on this area by somehow craweling around the back or is there another technique?

Thanks for your help!

Russ

 

[ISLAPP]

Russ,
If I undertand you correctly, you are saying the leak in the top rear of the toilet where the water line goes into a clear fitting that fits into the back of the toilet. If that is correct, that is the vacuum breaker. It may have an additional line on it if you have the hand flusher. What model of toilet do you have.
I had to replace three vacuum breakers before I got one that wouldnt leak. The vacuum breaker itself is kept in the back of the toilet with a rubber type gasket. It isnt screwed in or anything. You just reach behind the toilet, grasp the plastic breaker that the water line is attached to and pull it straight out of the toilet. You might have to wiggle it side to side alittle as you pull it out to get it free from the toilet. There is a rubber O ring inside of them that goes bad. You have to replace the entire vacuum breaker. It is easier if you can get down on your side and look at it as you pull it out to see how it comes out. You replace the breaker and the gasket that comes with it. Attach your water line to the new breaker before putting it back in the toilet. It is easier to work on it that way. Before you pull the breaker out, look at how it is positioned so you replace the new one in the same way. The water line connection on it should be parallel with the floor.

Depending on what model of toilet you have,
see item 14 HERE for what it looks like.
Mike

 

[TheRVGuy-WO]

Russ,

I think that ISLAPP is probably right.

Were it me, I would simply split the bowl off the base, and get the upper section where I could work on it without having to stand on my head. Turn off the water, drain by opening the flush lever, remove the round surround with the screw on the side, remove the water line, release the hose clamp holding the two pieces together, lift off and lay upside down on a couple of towels. Now you have free access to the back and bottom of the upper section.

Mike

 

[PULLEY]

I AGREE WITH MIKE. I TOO HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS WITH THE SAME TOILET IN MY JOURNEY DL. I DID AS MIKE SUGGESTED, ORDERED THE PART FROM NORTHEAST SANITATION, LTD AT 631 752 7606. RECEIVED IN TWO DAYS VIA UPS, INSTALLED IN ABOUT 15 MINUTES. THE PART IS $31.00. PART #230335 (VACUM WITH RINSE HOSE).

KEITH

 

[ISLAPP]

The part and the labor would be covered under warranty if you are still within that. If not, you could also call dometic and complain about the part being faulty. They would probably send one to you free.
Mike

 

[BugSlayer]

TheRVGuy, ISLAPP & Pulley, Thanks for the information, that was just what I was looking for. If I do have to take the entire unit off, do I need to buy additional rings or seals? Might as well get everything at once to do the job correctly.

The parts diagram appears to be the same unit I have but I had to leave the documentation on the RV to dry out in the sink as it was stored wrapped around one of the feed lines and was completely soaked when I found it. I decided to try to save it by letting it dry before I try to read it.

Thanks again, Ill let you know how it comes out. With any luck I'll have the parts for this weekend.

Russ

 

[TheRVGuy-WO]

Russ,

To replace the seals is a question of age, use, and "what's it doing". If the bowl is holding water with no leakage there really isn't a problem with the seals. However, if the unit is several years old and you use it regularly, you're probably not too far away from having to change seals anyway. The seal kit should be about $35-40, and you're already there with the unit disassembled. Now, I LIKE to work on toilets, and if there is any question I'd probably change the seals out when reassembling the bowl to base. For those that aren't as prone to work on toilets as I seem to be, it might be even quicker a "no-brainer" to change 'em out.

If you do choose to change the seals, it is really simple, lift off the old, clean the pedestal area, lay the new seals on the pedestal, position the basin, set the OD clamps, pull up the large hose clamp, snug the clamp, look down through the lid and center the basin/seal/ball together, tighten the clamp, reassemble the remaining parts....you're done.

Again, depending on age and use, you might want to just double check the 1/2 ball. The surface of the ball that contacts the seals should be free of scratches, dings, etc. They are usually good for quite a long time, but agian, you're already there so looking is a good idea.

If you put your rig in storage for some period of time, I always recommend to our customers that they put some RV antifreeze, the pink stuff, in the basin, raise both lids of the toilet, then use saran wrap or equal to seal the top of the ceramic basin to prevent the fluid from dehydrating. It will certainly make your seals happier to be keep wet and with limited air making it's way into the bowl, this process will keep them wet quite a long time.

Hope this helps,
Mike

PS if you need a new manual, here is the link for SeaLand manuals
http://www.travelerlite.com/manuals.asp

 

[PULLEY]

WHEN YOU REMOVE THE RING BAND YOU ARE ONLY REMOVING THE TOP HALF OF THE TOILET. THERE IS NO SEAL. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO MOVE THE TOILET FROM THE FLOOR. THIS IS AN EASY PROJECT.
PULLEY

 

[BugSlayer]

Pulley, ISLAP, TheRVguy and 007, Thanks for all the response and tips. I ordered the part from Northeast Sanitation and should have it this weekend. I will take your advice and get the top half off so I can work on the thing and hopefully have the same experience (15 - 20 min job) as you guys.

Thanks again!

Russ

 

[BugSlayer]

Just a quick status and another big thanks! I managed to stretch the job out to about 40 min but that's because I was being 'smart' and 'thinking ahead'

! For example I tried to leave the band clamp fastener on the side so it would be easier to get to the next time. Of course if you have done this job then you know the cover will only fit if the fastener is at the rear? Now I know also. When the instruction is to be sure the ball valve is centered, you should do that or else you will take it apart again till you get it right. Thats how you manage to take a 20 min job and stretch to 40 (LOL).

Thanks again for all the input and direction. Things are dry again and I am pretty happy with myself.

Russ

 

[TheRVGuy-WO]

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!

Isn't experiential knowledge just wonderful? I had an instructor that always said that "when you learned something today, 'Ya get to go home early", so with that in mind, take off have a glass of tea and enjoy the fruits of a job well done!!

Have fun,
Mike