I have a 2022, Minnie Winnie 26T. I am unable to find the circuit breaker for the slide outs. The user manual says it is located in a storage compartment in front of or behind the rear wheels. ChatGPT says it is located behind a drawer under the wardrobe. I am unable to find it in any location mentioned, and currently the slide outs are inoperable because of not having 12 V to the motors.
Schwintek slide circuit breaker location 2022 Minnie Winnie 26T
- Thread starter marcnevas
- Start date
Morich
Senior Member
I see different slides mentioned. If you have more than one, we need to know location of slide like left front, etc.?
I find a breaker for that slide in a place that would be easy to miss if not aware of what we were looking for or seeing!
Just left of the battery rack is a mode solenoid and various wiring. Also a breaker for circuit LLK. LLK is for part of the slide operation. Maybe check this if for the left front slide or tell us which slide and we can take a closer look for a different one?
Or a second point to check is here?
See if that helps or tell us more about which, etc. as my first guess is often wrong!
I find a breaker for that slide in a place that would be easy to miss if not aware of what we were looking for or seeing!
Just left of the battery rack is a mode solenoid and various wiring. Also a breaker for circuit LLK. LLK is for part of the slide operation. Maybe check this if for the left front slide or tell us which slide and we can take a closer look for a different one?
Or a second point to check is here?
See if that helps or tell us more about which, etc. as my first guess is often wrong!
Last edited:
Morich, Thank you for such a detailed reply, I have checked both the fuses you pointed out. All of them check out. We, myself and two different certified techs, are stumped. The controller depends on gettiing a signal from the parking brake and we replaced a defective parking brake switch. We also bypassed the switch signal directly to ground. Additionally we tried a brand new controller with no luck. Both the front and rear controllers show a fault at motor one. We by passed the controller with a gadget that can run the slides in and out and the motors worked just fine. Also the circuit boards on the motors were tested and tested as good. It acts as though a fuse or circuit breaker is tripped but it is not in any of the locations mentioned in the Winnibago manual. Chat GPT said it was located behind the rear drawer under the wardrobe, I pulled out that drawer and found the converter but not a circuit breaker. Do you have any further ideas?
Pointyears
Senior Member
RV LIFE Pro
Call Winnebago support and see if they have a third option?
Morich
Senior Member
Simple idea but when not getting the right result, we may have to go low ball?
Techs can get too involved at times, so just a different idea?
A broken connection can do the same as a blown fuse! When checking for power, did they actually have the info on where power should show up at the controller and check for both battery and ground to let it work?
I hate to think it but I do not have a high level of confidence in techs we find working on RV!
It seems they skip over testing and go straight to changing parts. In this case, changing the parking brake switch seems to be an example. The test on a simple switch that is either open or closed is to just put a meter on the connections at the controller and see if the switch opens and closes the connection!
But the users out here are a bit more handicapped than the techs should be. as we don't have access to the info they should have on hand, nor the back up to call folks with that info!
So we have to dig harder as you really are more interested in getting it fixed! They can just go home at night and forget the whole question!
But that is just where we are, so moving on?
I find we get different info that sometimes leads to questions if we look at different RV with what seems the same problem???
This is a recent example:
www.winnieowners.com
We get different drawing info, so is it a different slide system or why does this RV have six breaker feeding two slides, if you only have two power feeds feeding two slides?
Can you tell from looking at this drawing of the slide controller, whether it is the same as you have or different? Age, brand, model of RV and parts can all make a big difference, so I fall back to the basics when starting!
Like any form of mechanical brain, the controller has to both get the right info as well as put out the right info! The old , garbage in/ garbage out idea?
Are we dealing with the rear slide? That can cut the chase in half!
If the same system, why not six power feeds instead of the two we are finding?
A big example of us needing the full schematic drawings info the techs should be able to access!
What we really need is the info that tells us each point on the controller, what shows up there and when! Do you have any brand/model number of the slide controllers? It is worthwhile to check online to see what we might dig up for info.
Techs can get too involved at times, so just a different idea?
A broken connection can do the same as a blown fuse! When checking for power, did they actually have the info on where power should show up at the controller and check for both battery and ground to let it work?
I hate to think it but I do not have a high level of confidence in techs we find working on RV!
It seems they skip over testing and go straight to changing parts. In this case, changing the parking brake switch seems to be an example. The test on a simple switch that is either open or closed is to just put a meter on the connections at the controller and see if the switch opens and closes the connection!
But the users out here are a bit more handicapped than the techs should be. as we don't have access to the info they should have on hand, nor the back up to call folks with that info!
So we have to dig harder as you really are more interested in getting it fixed! They can just go home at night and forget the whole question!
But that is just where we are, so moving on?
I find we get different info that sometimes leads to questions if we look at different RV with what seems the same problem???
This is a recent example:
Slide control switch for my 2019 vista 27pe king bed
issue the switch for the bed slide broke at the face plate how does the switch come off of the contacts ? And where do I find a new one to replace also their is a control box someplace? Seemed like we lost power to the switch with engine on so I tried to remove it and broke the face off even...
www.winnieowners.com
Can you tell from looking at this drawing of the slide controller, whether it is the same as you have or different? Age, brand, model of RV and parts can all make a big difference, so I fall back to the basics when starting!
Like any form of mechanical brain, the controller has to both get the right info as well as put out the right info! The old , garbage in/ garbage out idea?
Are we dealing with the rear slide? That can cut the chase in half!
If the same system, why not six power feeds instead of the two we are finding?
A big example of us needing the full schematic drawings info the techs should be able to access!
What we really need is the info that tells us each point on the controller, what shows up there and when! Do you have any brand/model number of the slide controllers? It is worthwhile to check online to see what we might dig up for info.
Morich
Senior Member
Looking a bit further?
Am I getting that both front and rear are a problem?
I found this drawing that has info on circuits feeding each, front and rear. That should lead to something common to both if both are a problem?
This drawing set with details on EA and FA as the two slides:
Please verify which slides are a problem. Rear, front or BOTH?
This can help to sort for which circuits to chase. If BOTH, there appears to be one circuit DDJ which goes to both controllers, so that would seem to be suspect to chase first?
Circuit DDJ is the parking brake trigger, so perhaps they were on the right path?
Possible the DDJ pin is loose in the plug and doesn't actually contact when it is plugged in at the controller, etc. ?
Am I getting that both front and rear are a problem?
I found this drawing that has info on circuits feeding each, front and rear. That should lead to something common to both if both are a problem?
This drawing set with details on EA and FA as the two slides:
Please verify which slides are a problem. Rear, front or BOTH?
This can help to sort for which circuits to chase. If BOTH, there appears to be one circuit DDJ which goes to both controllers, so that would seem to be suspect to chase first?
Circuit DDJ is the parking brake trigger, so perhaps they were on the right path?
Possible the DDJ pin is loose in the plug and doesn't actually contact when it is plugged in at the controller, etc. ?
Last edited:
Morich
Senior Member
OR?
They changed the switch at the park brake. did they check that the wire is good to get the signal from the brake switch to the controller?
Several points/connections where that signal may be open after it leaves the switch! There is a diode inline? Maybe something as tricky as a loose pin in a plug that backs out as we plug in, rather than actually making contact with the mating item?
IF Both are failing, that leans toward the problem being at the switch , rather than the two plugs on different controllers both having the odd failure.
They changed the switch at the park brake. did they check that the wire is good to get the signal from the brake switch to the controller?
Several points/connections where that signal may be open after it leaves the switch! There is a diode inline? Maybe something as tricky as a loose pin in a plug that backs out as we plug in, rather than actually making contact with the mating item?
IF Both are failing, that leans toward the problem being at the switch , rather than the two plugs on different controllers both having the odd failure.
Morich
Senior Member
Details of my thought process?
We might expect to see a change at the wire going out of the swtich at the brake pedal. We don't know if it is battery or ground but it should show a change when brake is put on or off?
Change tells the control it is okay to move on but if no change here, the control will then not do anything! That leaves us to guess that we need to see a change on the wire leaving this switch or on the pin at the controller, depending on which is more the back breaker to check!!
We might expect to see a change at the wire going out of the swtich at the brake pedal. We don't know if it is battery or ground but it should show a change when brake is put on or off?
Change tells the control it is okay to move on but if no change here, the control will then not do anything! That leaves us to guess that we need to see a change on the wire leaving this switch or on the pin at the controller, depending on which is more the back breaker to check!!
Morich, thanks again for so much detailed information. My RV tech is totally into troubleshooting and i am the one purchasing parts, trying them out and then sending them back. The correct brake switch was cheap.
The tech says the parking brake should send a ground signal to the controller but I cannot figure out from the wiring diagram if it is supposed to send a positive or negative signal, can you? I'm not real good on reading electrical diagrams. My Controller is a 700156 which requires a signal from the parking brake to operate. The wire coming into the controller from the brake switch is white which typically indicates a ground wire, but I'm not sure I can count on it.
The tech says the parking brake should send a ground signal to the controller but I cannot figure out from the wiring diagram if it is supposed to send a positive or negative signal, can you? I'm not real good on reading electrical diagrams. My Controller is a 700156 which requires a signal from the parking brake to operate. The wire coming into the controller from the brake switch is white which typically indicates a ground wire, but I'm not sure I can count on it.
My Winnie is a 2022 26t with two slides and therefore two controllers. Both controllers indicate a fault at motor one but both motors on the slides worked with an override gadget called a Coddiwomple.
Here is part of a text from the tech:
The device I use does bypass the circuit boards.( the Coddiwomple) I used a different device to test the motor circuit boards and they passed. We also eliminated the harnesses by using a test harness and the control box with the replacement you had ordered. The override button on the controller is about the size of a ballpoint pen and it’s on the controller circuit board inside the cutout. I don’t really have any additional test points currently but I have been discussing it with colleagues to see if it is something anyone has seen before. There is likely a common wire that is rubbed or loose somewhere but that’s a needle in a stack of needles. I’ll send you a picture of the override button location.
Looking at your controller. Being that it is the “programmable” version, you are correct that it does not have an electronic override. It would normally be done by doing a factory reset but we have followed that procedure and it did not work.
Here is a link to the Coddiwomple gadget that bypasses the controller. I thought you might be interested.
rvtesters.com
Here is part of a text from the tech:
The device I use does bypass the circuit boards.( the Coddiwomple) I used a different device to test the motor circuit boards and they passed. We also eliminated the harnesses by using a test harness and the control box with the replacement you had ordered. The override button on the controller is about the size of a ballpoint pen and it’s on the controller circuit board inside the cutout. I don’t really have any additional test points currently but I have been discussing it with colleagues to see if it is something anyone has seen before. There is likely a common wire that is rubbed or loose somewhere but that’s a needle in a stack of needles. I’ll send you a picture of the override button location.
Looking at your controller. Being that it is the “programmable” version, you are correct that it does not have an electronic override. It would normally be done by doing a factory reset but we have followed that procedure and it did not work.
Here is a link to the Coddiwomple gadget that bypasses the controller. I thought you might be interested.
CODDIWOMPLE tool only
This is a replacement CODDIWOMPLE bare tool only! The CODDIWOMPLE will not work with DeWalt 20v powerstack batteries! Note: Please select what drill battery style you currently use as this bare tool will NOT come with a battery. This tool uses your battery pack to operate the systems, We...
rvtesters.com
Morich
Senior Member
Okay, this may make it a bit more complex than expected. I appreciate getting the picture of the controller as it lets me relate the drawings with what you see! My drawing up in post six shows we are looking at the same things but my drawing is turned over 180 degrees from your picture!
No big problem there as what I was looking at is the center white wire from the brake switch, so left/ right is not a question finding it!
With the news that BOTH front and rear give the same indication of motor one as the problem, I may have to fall back to that being a bad report! Hard to believe that both slides would have the same problem with motor one but they both test good?
So electronic gizmos that are semi-computer items are not something that I like too often. They have ways to get "bee in the bonnet" and give us bad answers!
Since the tech had changed the brake pedal switch, it seemed they were looking at one common item that would effect both front and rear slides. One way that might happen is when the switch is good and sends the signal to both front and rea controllers on that white wire. Looking at the wiring diagram and the wire ID for wire DY, it shows it as "switched ground" in the note. Not 100% sure of that info but I would want to check first.
If one takes that white wire off the controller (it looks like a plug?) and then test it for ground or battery coming from the switch and Ford wiring?
Then without plugging that wire back to the controller, does that battery or ground (depending which they find) actually change when the pedal is applied?
If the same error is reported on both front and rear, the common items are only those things at the switch and the wiring in getting that signal to each controller. It seems not to be the wiring as they use two different routes to the two controllers from some common point.
It may be that there is a wire open or some smaller part like that diode which is bad?
If that signal is not coming out of the switch area, the error codes may just be the computer thought not liking it! So it throws a confused/bad code!
I would move to checking the trigger signal is actually changing at each controller when the pedal changes from on to off!
For a less complex way to think of this?
We might have two lamps that are controlled by one switch and neither work!
That makes me think we don't need to check the lamps once we know the bulb is good but we do need to check from the switch to where the two lamps meet that signal! The drawing shows a diode in what looks like some sort of "bypass" that we don't know what it does. Maybe that little diode has gone bad? A diode is a small item that lets power pass in one direction only, something like a check valve does in water flow.
But that idea is from a guy standing way back and not able to see what they may have checked or done already!
No big problem there as what I was looking at is the center white wire from the brake switch, so left/ right is not a question finding it!
With the news that BOTH front and rear give the same indication of motor one as the problem, I may have to fall back to that being a bad report! Hard to believe that both slides would have the same problem with motor one but they both test good?
So electronic gizmos that are semi-computer items are not something that I like too often. They have ways to get "bee in the bonnet" and give us bad answers!
Since the tech had changed the brake pedal switch, it seemed they were looking at one common item that would effect both front and rear slides. One way that might happen is when the switch is good and sends the signal to both front and rea controllers on that white wire. Looking at the wiring diagram and the wire ID for wire DY, it shows it as "switched ground" in the note. Not 100% sure of that info but I would want to check first.
If one takes that white wire off the controller (it looks like a plug?) and then test it for ground or battery coming from the switch and Ford wiring?
Then without plugging that wire back to the controller, does that battery or ground (depending which they find) actually change when the pedal is applied?
If the same error is reported on both front and rear, the common items are only those things at the switch and the wiring in getting that signal to each controller. It seems not to be the wiring as they use two different routes to the two controllers from some common point.
It may be that there is a wire open or some smaller part like that diode which is bad?
If that signal is not coming out of the switch area, the error codes may just be the computer thought not liking it! So it throws a confused/bad code!
I would move to checking the trigger signal is actually changing at each controller when the pedal changes from on to off!
For a less complex way to think of this?
We might have two lamps that are controlled by one switch and neither work!
That makes me think we don't need to check the lamps once we know the bulb is good but we do need to check from the switch to where the two lamps meet that signal! The drawing shows a diode in what looks like some sort of "bypass" that we don't know what it does. Maybe that little diode has gone bad? A diode is a small item that lets power pass in one direction only, something like a check valve does in water flow.
But that idea is from a guy standing way back and not able to see what they may have checked or done already!
I asked the RV tech if he had directly connected the brake input on the controller to a ground bypassing the wire from the brake pedal and he said he had. So in other words, he took the brake switch connection to ground out of the loop and grounded the brake input directly. It is definitely a mystery!
I had ordered another controller online through Walmart of all places, and we plugged in the replacement controller and got the same results. So that ruled out the controllers both being bad. So I returned the controller within the 30 day. And at least got that money back.
This one is really a head scratcher!
I had ordered another controller online through Walmart of all places, and we plugged in the replacement controller and got the same results. So that ruled out the controllers both being bad. So I returned the controller within the 30 day. And at least got that money back.
This one is really a head scratcher!
creativepart
Senior Member
Site Team
RV LIFE Pro
Your title asks about “Schwitec” slide info. But the image of the controller you posted says it is a Slimrack slide not a Schwintec.
I doubt that fact plays all that much into solving your issue, but it might be helpful in your search for answers to correctly describe the slide type you are discussing.
Schwintec slides and Slimrack slides are two different RV slide mechanisms.
I doubt that fact plays all that much into solving your issue, but it might be helpful in your search for answers to correctly describe the slide type you are discussing.
Schwintec slides and Slimrack slides are two different RV slide mechanisms.
Morich
Senior Member
Going to the manual is often a good move. I wonder if the tech is aware of this in the manual?
I found the manual here:
If no joy when looking this manual over, I would pass the problem/question on tot he Lippert folks!
I found the manual here:
If no joy when looking this manual over, I would pass the problem/question on tot he Lippert folks!
Thank you, this manual was missing in the owners package of materials and I did not find it on the web. It could come in very handy.
RayIN
Senior Member
I apologize to the moderator that removed my reply. When the original post does not contain information otherwise, I assume the slide room is the better HWH system. As the thread reveals this has the electric Lippert leveling system.
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When my 2021 26T had the same problem the tech finally after a couple of hours found a fuse holder in a wire that was connected to the parking brake behind the steering wheel kind of beneath the speedometer. He replaced a blown 7.5 amp blade fuse and voila! It had us stumped but turned out to be something so simple once you tied yourself in a knot a got on your back in the front floorboard. Good luck!
Morich
Senior Member
That sort of story is what makes me so reluctant to recommend going to techs!
They are so often not really techs that use any sort of real training or thought process to get things fixed.!
They should have access to the info they need and that is the difference in us doing it DIY!
They should know, or at least be able to call and ask what comes out on wire DY!
From there it is simply chasing battery or ground!
They are so often not really techs that use any sort of real training or thought process to get things fixed.!
They should have access to the info they need and that is the difference in us doing it DIY!
They should know, or at least be able to call and ask what comes out on wire DY!
From there it is simply chasing battery or ground!
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