Rodents Chewing Propane Hose on 2019 Micro Minnie 2401RG

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Original Member Title: Problems with propane hose 2019 Micro Minnie 2401RG Travel Trailer
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A member with a 2019 Micro Minnie 2401RG reported that chipmunks or squirrels chewed through the rubber propane hose from the 30 lb tanks to the under-frame connection twice in two months. Members suggested looking for replacement hose sections through Amazon, etrailer, propane dealers or service centers, hardware suppliers, or possibly the manufacturer, since the original dealer no longer had the part and is no longer a Winnebago dealer.

Main prevention ideas centered on adding a physical...
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RJFJ

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Nov 24, 2023
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I own a 2019---- 2401 RG micro minni RV trailer. Two months ago either chipmunks or squirrels eat thru the rubber propane hose that runs from the 30# tanks to a connection under the frame. I was able to find a replacement hose section. I just found that the new hose has been eaten as well.
Has anyone has this experience? Where do I find a replacement as the dealer who had the needed part does not have another and is no longer a Winnebago dealer.. Any experience working with the manufacturer on parts?
Any suggestion on preventing this again?
Thanks Bob
 
Check Amazon, e Trailer ,or propane dealer/service center. Rub peppermint oil on hose ,mice ( rodents) in general hate the smell and will stay away.
 
I have found that it is worth my time to always assume something will chew my RV. When it comes down to me losing something as vital as the wiring loom on my motorhome or them having to die, I stop thinking!
One way to prevent some really traumatic and expensive damage is to put rat bars in lots of places. Sorry, folks, I know I'm killing the planet but I figure my part is not near the level of starting a war, so I live at my level!
I throw a few back into those spaces under the floor at cabinets where they are out of reach and safe for people inside. Then I also leave a few in any space where rodents can get to wiring as they will chew anything they find. They have to chew as their teeth grow at all stages of their life.
For really awkward spots like the wiring and hoses under the hood, I find it works to drill a hole in the rat bar to se a wire to attach it to things!
Since most will come from the ground, some favor leaving bars on each tire when storing the RV!
 
My Mosquito Magnethad the hose chewed by (presumably) squirrels. After replacing the hose, we put a long spring or two to cover the length of the hose, they no longer chew.
McmasterCarr has parts, but expensive.
Bill
 
LED Rope Lights in the Bright White 5000 Kelvin color temperature will keep the squirrels at bay.
 
Options for replacements have been covered but I'll address the "how to stop it from happening again side." Rodent damage is and has been a problem humans have had for millennia. As RVers were are exposed to more wild critters because we visit their territories. However, rodents do billions of dollars in damage annually. Imagine food processing plants, kitchens, food storage areas, etc, and equipment that's anywhere rodents are, buildings and homes - rodents are anywhere humans are.

Exclusion is the only sure thing, which would be covering the hose with something chew resistant. I suggest taking the old hose, or even the new one before installation, to a hardware store like Home Depot and see if the fittings will pass through flex conduit. Metallic would be the best, but even the plastic flex would put an additional barrier between the hose and chewing critters. Just make sure there's no sharp ends that may chafe over time.

What I'm going to say isn't popular, because myths can be quite persistent and personal testimony is a powerful thing. I did institutional pest control for nearly two decades, and there simply is no such thing as a repellent, be it via taste, smell, light, or sound. At best, any effect is short lived. The reason they're popular is we tend to apply human logic to wild animals, the most common one is: "They don't like X, so they stay away." This ignores what's called adaptability, and what I prefer to call normalization. Lights and sounds eventually become normalized background noise, that a critter learns poses no threat. Smells rely on volatile compounds that evaporate and lose strength quickly, and even smells become background quickly. In tests, there was one smell that reduced visitation by 30%, and that was cat urine. The thing is, people don't want a reduction in visits, they want zero visits, and only exclusion works for that. Adaptation is actually a survival skill, designed so the brain is ready to pick up any new potential threat instead of wasting time on something it has learned isn't a threat. Those tiny critters are anything but passive, dumb visitors, they constantly evaluate their surrounding and quickly learn what's a threat and what isn't. They're pros. They get used to smells, sights, and sounds. I dealt with rodents in brightly lit boiler rooms where loud equipment cycle off and on, and in chemical storage areas where strong aromatic smells were the norm. They're looking for three things, food water and shelter and humans tend to supply all three.

Please, please, don't rely on home remedies when proven methods are available. Since bait was mentioned, it's a valid method, but DO NOT place it inside a rig, or a place where you don't want rodents. Bait is by design an attractant, and visiting critters can do chewing damage before they eat enough of the bait to die. Bait outside the rig with bait in pet/child resistant bait stations. Check and refill regularly. If one must put something inside the rig, use traps or sticky boards and place them where you see, or have seen activity. If you are dealing with rats, one must pre-bait the traps without setting them, because rats are smart and neophobic. They are warry of anything new and can even test a trap, and if it snaps and doesn't get them, they will remember it and avoid the traps. Let them take the bait a few times then set the trap. Yes, I know, a baited trap is an attractant too, but if set properly, there won't be repeated visits. And traps are used where exclusion is difficult or impossible. Sticky boards capture without using bait. Oh, and NEVER clean up rodent dropping dry, or vacuum them up as they can carry diseases such as Hantavirus which can be inhaled when tiny particles or feces or dried urine become airborne. Wear gloves and a mask, and spray them down with a disinfectant following the instructions for dwell time. Wipe them up wet.
 
I have lost numerous propane lines on grill and RVs and they just got my fuel line to the generator on my motor home. On top of the fuel tank which requires dropping the tank of course. My sister just had her second generator fuel line replaced on her MH thanks to squirrels. The only thing that has stoped them is braided metal over the propane hose. I don’t know why they like propane and gas hoses. I have never had a squirrel chew any wires or plastic loom but they seem to love hard plastic. Trailer fenders on my utility trailer and car dolly, two hose reels, garbage can, air cleaner on a car………. The best repellent was my dog.
 
A rat terrier perhaps?
phaser-van.jpg
 
For consideration, I had mice chew the wires on my home gate control, which I finally solved by wrapping the wires in AC (metal foil/sticky rubber) tape. Easily done, it may be worth a try on RV wires & hoses.
 
Another rodent Fun Fact, and myth. A common thing I see said in forums is rodents are attracted to the wiring in today's vehicles because the insulation is Soy based. This is simply not true. Rodents instinctually chew to keep their teeth sharp, and to control growth because rodent teeth don't stop growing. Did you know, on the Mohs scale Rat teeth have the same hardness as iron? Chewing is instinctual, and wires and hoses resemble roots and twigs that they naturally chew in the wild. Plus, they just pain chew on anything handy. Modern cars have miles of wiring compared to care 50 years ago. A little critter sitting comfortably in your engine compartment or on a wiring harness will simply follow instinct, and chew on whatever is handy and is chewable. Rodents, ants and stinging insects were a topic every year in our recert classes. In our classes, the #1 method of control is exclusion. Unfortunately, it is the most difficult and time consuming, and isn't always possible with motorhomes with exposed engine compartments, which is why the idea of repellents are so popular. Luckily our trailers are typically pretty well sealed, or can be sealed. NOTE: A mouse can fit through any opening his skull can fit through. They literally dislocate their shoulders and hips to wriggle the rest of their body through. We were shown an example of one doing so as seen through a fluoroscope. It was amazing. If you can fit the tip of your pinky finger in a hole, chances are a mouse can get through. We were also shown slides of a mouse beds made from dryer sheets, a video of a mouse contently washing himself while sitting in front of an electronic "pest chaser," rodents running right over the top of rope lights in search for food, and bars of Irish Spring soap partly consumed, clearly showing teeth marks. Basically, if any type of repellent worked, it would be standard in the industry, it's not. Now, to be clear, I have never doubted people's sincerity when they tell me a home remedy works. In my job I've probably heard them all.

Oh, while unrelated to rodents, there's another pest that can be a problem with RVers. Ants. And they come with myths of their own. I have had people tell me more than once that they sprinkle corn meal on the ground when they have an ant problem. They explain, ants eat the corn meal, and when they drink, the corn meal expands in their stomachs, and because of an ant's exoskeleton, pressure builds up and either kills them or they explode. It's always a bit awkward to explain why this is a myth, because the myth sounds like it makes a lot of sense. But, adult ants don't, and in fact, can't eat solid foods. Their anatomy prevents it. Instead, they carry it back to the nest where they feed the grubs, which then excrete a nutritious liquid that adults consume and share. Ant Fun Fact: Ants have two stomachs, a personal one, and a social one. One is for sustenance, and the other is used for sharing the liquid with other ants or fed to the queen. We commonly share liquids in a social setting, but not mouth to mouth, usually it's from a bottle or can, but the reasons are similar, providing social bonds. Even after explaining this ant fact, a common rebuttal is: "But it worked, they disappeared!" To which I explain, ants have foraging cycles, as they grow the colony, or store food for the winter, they forage. The reason the ants disappeared is you ended the forage cycle by helping them fill their pantries quickly, and by doing so insure a healthy, well fed colony that will return next season. Win the battle, but lose the war.

Finally, I suggest every time you service or winterize/un-winterize your rig, that you do a pest inspection. The expanding foam and caulking used by the factories can come lose, crack, or even fall out. When camping, make sure all utility lines are sealed off where they enter the rig, if they enter the rig. Trailer manufacturers have gotten better at making these connections on the exterior. I can't stress enough you are dealing with experts. A few years back I sat outside our rig in a campground and watched the resident Chipmunks travel from rig to rig, stopping and looking up where sewer, power and water hoses went up into the rig, like little gangs of burglars casing the neighborhood. They knew where the common entry points were. One ran right between my legs and stopped under my utility compartment. He looked up and moved on. I had made plastic shields with wing nuts to hold them in place, and holes just large enough for the hose and electrical cord to pass through. Sometimes it doesn't take an impenetrable barrier, to discourage them especially if your visit it temporary. Their survival is about energy out vs energy in, and they'll often explore and move on if an easy route isn't obvious, as in the case of my chipmunk friends. When storing a rig unattended, it's best to make sure your exclusion is more robust. And never, ever, think you've won. I learned very quickly when I started pest control, the enemy is smart, patient and resourceful, and is on duty 24/7/365. Never underestimate your opponent. Don't let that little peanut size brain fool you. They're pros and we're in their world.
 
And to add to the idea that smell is not likely to keep them away, I have just found something that says the smell doesn't stop them! Excluding them is one effort to try but also has it's own problems as they are set up to make their own entry when needed.
We found our shed had been invaded and this is what they did to the plastic container of rose food! Do they eat fertilizer, too?
IMG_5075.JPG

They stopped to take a small bit out of the rat bar and leave a few "gifts" next to it!
IMG_5076.JPG

We found a couple dead bodies but never knew how many more there might be and tried to find where they were getting in! It is not like they need a real space as they can make their own doorways. If there is a crack, they will find it and make it large enough to enter!
IMG_5077.JPG

The unpainted board is a new threshold I put in and they had found the end of that board, behind the trim to make a hole that was really hard for us to find until they had chewed off part of the trim. The white stuff is the caulk I'm using to hold a bunch of metal stuffed into the hole to help hold them off. They tend to not like chewing metal as much as they like wood! I find the caulk is a handy way to hold the screen mesh until it sets and then I can work it down smooth before adding the final finish coat.
While running free, they also nearly ate the whole bag of Amdro ant killer! Apparently it has no effect on rats but the rat bars have gotten to at least two of them!
At least I am happy the bars dry them out to avoid smell when I'm picking them up!
 
Yes, they navigate by smell and because buildings breathe, can locate potential food sources by drafts coming out small holes. This is why sealing up - exclusion - can be difficult. Also why people mistakenly think by thoroughly cleaning their RV will keep it safe while in storage. Any structure that's been lived in and cooked in retains smells even if we can't sense them. It's also why caulking and foaming works well even if it doesn't provide a mechanical chew-proof barrier. It works by simple stopping smells reaching a foraging nose. NOTE: expanding foams labeled as being pest proof or pest resistant don't provide any special properties other than having a denser, smaller celled foam which is more smell proof. Aslo note most expanding foams are not sunlight stable or weather resistant. It's why you'll see black foam used on our RVs, this is typically sold as "pond foam" or landscaping foam it's made to be weather resistant.

As for the Amdro ant killer, the granular bait is corn based, and is attractive to ants foraging for proteins. For some it's sugars, and others protein which I why I always carried and keep several types or brands of baits handy. As for rodents, it's recommended rotating bait types. Ideally use two different baits with differing modes of action, not simply different active ingredients. Mode of action refers to how the toxin works. For many rodenticides, an anticoagulant is the mode of action. Overuse of a single mode of action bait containing warfarin has led to warfarin resistant rats. Don't ever hesitate to try different baits or methods. Learn and adapt. Effective pest control is learning what works and what doesn't, and knowing one's enemy. It's easy to get fooled by a picture of a pest with Xs for eyes on the front of a package. Take the time to read the label.
 

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