Replaced my TriMark 030-0900 entry door & dead-bolt lock hardware

[RTegarini]

Replaced my TriMark 030-0900 entry door & dead-bolt lock hardware. I had ordered the parts some time back, and finally decided I was brave enough to change out all the parts. Simply adjusting the lock mechanism might have solved the problem, but I just wanted to be done and have all new parts. $131.86 with shipping and sales tax got me a new exterior door handle & a new gasket, new interior door handle and a new latch mechanism. Also included new keys for the dead-bolt; the entry door lock comes set-up for your old key.

Disassembly was pretty straight-forward, though did have a snag when I got to pulling out the latch mechanism. I had it unbolted from the door and it moved around, up and down, inside the door, but didn't seem to want to come out. Turns out I had to use a screwdriver and pry the door slightly apart from the inside, and the latch mechanism came right out.

I didn't take any 'after' pictures but looks great now with a new outside handle and plate, as the old one had faded so badly. When I ordered all the parts, I did have to buy the exterior door latch gasket separately, or re-use the old one. Also, the new interior door handle has been re-designed, and no longer has the rubber piece on the handle (not shown) which spun when opening the door anyway. -RT

112782-27-01A - Latch Plate - Interior Entry Door - White
112782-22-01A - Latch - Single Rotor
112782-04-01A - Gasket
112782-20-705 - Latch / Lock - Exterior Entry Door - Reversible Key

 

[RTegarini]

Found another picture that I originally meant to post, showing the screws that need to be removed to access the internal piece. Remove the three on the door edge and the three from the interior plate. Pull off the red cap but the red dead-bolt lock stays in place, along with the white exit handle; both come off with the interior plate.

The black plug is the access to adjust the rod. (Shown in fourth picture in first post.) My parts didn't really show any wear, so I probably could have adjusted it back to factory specifications, taking only a couple of minutes and called it good. But I decided due to the age of my motorhome just to replace everything. -RT

 

[swoop]

I need to do the same thing. Where did you order the parts from?

 

[jpspaz]

Can you explain the adjustment? Mine is a pain to open and my kids can't do it. You really have to tug on it and I need to do something about it. My wife has been complaining since we bought it.

 

[RTegarini]

jpspaz;

I ordered all the parts from Lichtsinn RV -RT

 

[RTegarini]

Can you explain the adjustment? Mine is a pain to open and my kids can't do it. You really have to tug on it and I need to do something about it. My wife has been complaining since we bought it.

It's done by removing the black plug and using a socket, adjust it until there is minimal slack. I didn't turn mine much but then, it was all new parts to start with. May take more if the parts have worn. RT

 

[swoop]

Installed the replacement today myself! I contacted Lichtsinn but they sent me the wrong part. Sent it back and got the correct parts from Rev Group. It was a little more expensive but it was just what I needed. Took me about 90 minutes to complete the job. The hard part was removing the old assembly.

 

[imnprsd]

Good pictures. Thanks! Let me add the following information I picked up after talking to Trimark's mechanical engineer.

This is what we discovered this about Trimark/Atwood/Winnebago part numbers:

Trimark says to disassemble their lock and look for the Rev# on the Inside Handle Assembly before you order parts. However, in my case this area of the assembly had wear and no numbers were visible. So now what?

Fortunately, Winnebago has a website you can go to find component parts for your specific model and serial number, and there you will find a section on "Exterior Doors & Components Group."

Specifically, you want to find the drawing page for your door (my door as it turns out is made by Atwood) and there you will find your Winne part number, which is of little help, and a VENDOR NO. for each part used on your door.

...Well, it turns out that these Vendor Numbers are actually Atwood part numbers for your version of Trimark door parts.

...But wait there's more. You need to call Kevin at Trimark (641-394-1070) and give him your Vendor part numbers so he can cross reference them to Trimark Part numbers. And there you go!

So apparently, Trimark supplied their door locks to Atwood, who shipped their door to Winnebago.

To order parts call Trimark at 800-447-0343.

===

One more tip: If your outside handle stops engaging and sometimes you cannot open the door from the outside, then try this: On the outside Paddle, bend that black finger looking tab "up" and lubricate the inside of the lock while you are at it. (See 2nd picture from the top above... right side.)

 

[imnprsd]

Here's a picture of what Trimark says to look for their 030-900 Revision numbers, but in my case they were worn away.



And here is a great schematic and explanation on how to adjust the door nut:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzxw80wy9ifrV0hfTTdUME1rMms/view?ths=true

 

[imnprsd]

If you cannot lock your door using the bottom cam lock and the inside "up-down" locking pin, then you probably just need to adjust the nut behind the 3/4x3/4 inch cover plate on the end of the door. This should do the trick. It worked for me, and I thought I needed a new inside handle assembly! Not any longer!!! And I was so ready to order new parts. Not any longer. (Another bullet dodged by Roger!)

Look closely at the 4th picture from the top above. You can see the nut that needs to be adjusted. It travels from the Inside Paddle Assembly to the edge of the door.

Good luck.

 

[imnprsd]

Sorry for the delay. I just found out that you can't access the Door Lock Adjustment .pdf off Google Drive without permission. So let me describe the procedure for you. It's very easy:

* Open the door and remove the cover plate glued to the end of the door. This will give you access to the nut. Then using a 12mm deep sock (1/4" drive) you can adjust the nut by following these procedures:

1. Keeping the door open... close rotor/latch to simulate the door locking.

2. Lock the handle from the inside (using the lower manual lock lever). Keep the door open.

3. While pulling up on the inside handle, and keeping it pulled up, turn the locking nut clockwise until the latch releases. This takes up the slack in the mechanism. Note, you may have to back-off the nut a few turns first.

4. Once the latch springs open, turn the nut counterclockwise 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns.

5. Now test the door lock. I.e., unlock the door and open the door from the inside handle.

Note: If possible have someone inside the RV while you remain outside.

6. CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE INSIDE HANDLE DOES NOT OPEN THE DOOR WHEN IT IS LOCKED. RECHECK. AND RECHECK NORMAL OPERATION AGAIN.

Now you are good to go.

 

[imnprsd]

This picture should help:

 

[lakejumper]

Thank you for this thread and the instructions on how to adjust the Door Nut. My door sticks so badly that we were almost falling out of the RV while pushing on it to open. We're tugging on it from the outside as well! I initially thought that the door frame was rubbing but couldn't find any wear spots on it. I finally lubicated the latch mechanism and the door opens more easily now. I've only tried it a couple times so I will try adjusting the nut to see if it helps.

 

[imnprsd]

Note: In previous posts I indicate you can download the .pdf file on how to adjust the Tri-mark lock. This is not necessary as I have cut and pasted the .pdf in the above posts. So please do not email me for the password to access the .pdf on the G-drive. I will not send it... and you don't need it now that the nut adjustment instruction are spelled out above.

SIDE NOTE: If you door makes rattle noises going down the road, an you have already added weatherstripping to fix it... only to find it didn't make any difference. Maybe you will have more luck putting some round felt glue-on pads between the screen and the door. In my case, the squeaking noise was because the screen was not held in place when he door was shut.

 

[Wandering100]

jpspaz,

We had the same problem from day 1 with our 2015 Vista. Emailed Winnie and asked them how to adjust it. A couple of days later had a pdf with the part that needed adjustment circled and wordage on how to do it. I find Winnie support generally exceptional.

 

[imnprsd]

Trimark 030-0900 Lock Adjustment Procedure & Tips

UPDATE TO PREVIOUS POSTS:

If you find your door latch will not catch/open from the outside, first I would try to adjust the lock to see if that is the problem. It doesn't take long.

Let me describe the procedure for you. It's very easy:

* Open the door and remove the cover plate glued to the end of the door. This will give you access to the nut. Then using a 12mm deep sock (1/4" drive) that fits in the hole... you can adjust the nut by following these procedures:

1. Keeping the door open... close rotor/latch to simulate the door locking.

2. Lock the handle from the inside (using the lower manual lock lever). Keep the door open.

3. While pulling up on the inside handle, and keeping it pulled up, turn the locking nut clockwise until the latch releases. This takes up the slack in the mechanism. Note, you may have to back-off the nut a few turns first.

4. Once the latch springs open, turn the nut counterclockwise 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns.

5. Now test the door lock. I.e., unlock the door and open the door from the inside handle.

Note: If possible have someone inside the RV while you remain outside.

6. CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE INSIDE HANDLE DOES NOT OPEN THE DOOR WHEN IT IS LOCKED. RECHECK. AND RECHECK NORMAL OPERATION AGAIN.

===

If the outside handle does not work after you adjust the lock then you may have to back the adjustment nut all the way to the end of the shaft, but do not remove the adjustment nut. And it helps if you keep a mental note of the remaining number of the treads on the end of the shaft for an approximate adjusting point to screw the nut back on.

You then need to separate the the door handle parts, but I can't remember if you need to separate the halves completely. My recollection is that I was not able to separate the lock halves so I use long needle-nose pliers to bend the tab in the inside of the outside plate so it mates properly with the unlocking mechanism.

Then reassemble the lock, and return the adjustment nut back to where you think it was positioned minus a one turn; and then follow the adjustment instructions above.

In closing, my lock would sometimes catch (meaning open) and sometime just flop and leave me locked out of the coach. If your lock does the save thing, particularly when it's cold outside (below 40 overnight) then your lock may only need the tab bent back in place.

Note: The upper deadbolt and key are completely separate mechanisms. And don't spray WD-40 or silicon the mechanism. Use a heavier white lithium grease or whatever you have... but just on the movable parts.

TIP: Inspect the striker bolt screwed into the door frame, and if you find it warn on one side or top and bottom, then turn it 90-degrees so you have some fresh metal for the latch to catch on.

SUGGESTION: I HOPE YOU KEEP A SPARE SET OF KEYS HIDDEN SOMEWHERE OUTSIDE THE COACH. I can't tell you how many times I closed my door without intending to lock it, only to have the lock pin (the inside red one) fall down and lock the door... and me outside... with my main set of keys inside. (Luck for me I keep a spare set outside the coach... or I would be so mad... and inconvenienced... and I would have to either call a locksmith or break-in somehow.)

 

[imnprsd]

If your door latch starts losing it _ fix it before you get locked out!

This is a review on how to fix your door lock if you find your door handle is sometimes catching and opening your door and sometimes locks you out.

...And if you are tired of your door flying open in the wind, we recommend a door prop upgrade you an install easily yourself.

Credit goes to another IRV2 Member. I borrowed the idea and it works great! However, I added clear vinyl tubing to the ends and that adds more paint protection. Just be sure to match your eyelets tot he diameter of the vinyl hose.

SEE ATTACHED .pdf file for all this information.

 

[CharlesMoore]

This comment may or may not have anything to do other comments in the major Tri-Mark adjustments thread: My 2002 Journey 36GL was having this problem BUT only when the sun hit the door side of the coach. We would have to shoulder bang the door to get it opened with the handle full up.


After a bit of experimentation we determined that if we pushed the screendoor latch (with the door handle full up) and bingo it seems to work every time. I am not sure how this applies to this thread. Now, if you are outside you have a major issue since access to the screen door release is not available. We just got in the habit of not latching the door if we all were outside.


BTW - I will try the adjustment now that this kind thread supplied the procedure. Thanks to all.

 

[Kathleen-WO]

I can't tell you how many times I closed my door without intending to lock it, only to have the lock pin (the inside red one) fall down and lock the door... and me outside...

My red lock slipped down only once. After that I rolled up a small piece of cardboard and put it under the red handle so it couldn't slide into the locked position.

 

[imnprsd]

Does Your Keyless Entry Fob Work?

Thanks Kathleen! That's a good tip.

I guess I never gave it another thought, because I replaced my old SCS-Frigette Keyless Entry System with a new universal Avital 3100LS system for less than $25. Now I just use a key fob.

If your automatic door lock does not work, then maybe this thread will help you rewire it using the Wire Conversion Chart I created. ...And don't let those wire looms scare you, they just go to a few relays and then they all tuck away nicely where your old Keyless Transmitter is located. If fact, you can use your old mounting bracket too! ...It's all explained in this thread:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/sc...cement-to-universal-avital-3100ls-451241.html