Pulling the furnace on a 2021 Micro Minnie 1800BH

godp1301

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2025
Posts
18
Location
Montreal
Hi everyone,

Just got the trailer out of storage for the winter. Still cold outside here so I wanted to heat up things a bit by using the furnace. It worked out of the box for a few minutes than died. Propane and power aren't the issue. I have the "blower runs fine for 30sec than off without ignition" type of situation which every post on the internet seems to indicate dirty or faulty sail switch.

My issue is when trying to pull the furnace. It won't come out. External vents screws out, internal bracket screws out, vent ports and propane disconnected check. It will move from right to left but move forward, seems stuck from the back, no visible screws...

Do I need to take off the external vent port and seal? Any ideas or recommandations?

Thanks
 
A few points that may clear some doubts? One is that I don't do hard repairs until I know for pretty sure that I have to do the ahrd stuff!
First thought is that we often dan do a better job if we get the best info we can. On that, have you looked for a guide for the specific furnace you have? There are lots of different brands and models, so knowing what you have is often a good step to knowing what holds it in place or if it is really necessary to pull it!
Mots of us won't know which exact brand and model that RV has instaloled, so can't give very good suggestions.
But on a more direct line, if we knew where the connections would be found, I would want to test the sail switch before going to the trouble of getting it pulled out!
I might guess that the wires going to the switch might connect onto the board, etc. on the fron of the furnace? Bit of guessing without kjnowing which furnace, but if those wires are handy to get at, I would certainly want to test the switch before working too hard to get to the switch itself.
One way to do the test is , find the two wires, connect a ohmemter between the two wires with them off any board, etc. and see it it opens and closes continuity as the fan blows and it should close.
Most I have worked on will show and open when tested and then when the sail moves, there should be a path from one wire tot he other, indicating the switch has moved ot close the contacts. Simple on/off type micro switch and all you are looking for is it oppening and closing the path?
Test is simple but maybe a more direct question will help? Do you have two vents on the outside of the furnace and RV? One to let air into the combustion chamber where the fuel burns and the other to let that air pass on out? That is where the air has to blow the sail switch to confirm air takes fumes out beofrwe they let the gas valve open!
So is there some form of screen over the vents to eep things like mud daubers from getting into that perfect looking hole and building a nest on this handy thing hanging down inside? Not at all uncommon for this to happen if the RV is stored without screens to keep them out of the vents!
If you have a good sized vacuum to blow and suck air through that vent system, it may show it to be stopped up with a wasp nest. At that point, I move to trying to break the nest off to get it out! But do be aware that you don't want to get so rough that you also hang a wire on the sail and pull it off! Bang around enough to knock a mud dauber nest off but not knock the sail switch out???
Small point to know? The sail is normally in the vent that lets fresh air in, as that keeps it out of the hot air after the burner. If that idea is correct and you find the switch is not opening/closing, try finding which vent is intake and check that one first as it is often a semi-short distance in from the vent to the sail!

Sorry about the long post but this does tend to be a frequent problem after storage and getting screens on is often not thought of in time! If you hapen to have one of the little camera probes to fit cell phones, they can be handy to run in that vent to take a look?
 
Hi thanks for the recommendations. The furnace is a dometic model for which everything (board, wires, sail switch) are in the back of the unit and only available by pulling the on it. It's a model where there's only the exhaust on the outside, fresh air is pulled from the trailer. Also, I doubt insects are at stake, we don't have them in the winter, only snow, and I had a cover on the trailer. Most of the hard work is already done, I just want to see if anyone has experience with the same trailer because I don't want to break anything.
 
Shot in the dark here as I’m not familiar with your model furnace. I had to remove mine last year to replace the fan cage, a few fins had cracked and was making some noise.

I had to remove the outside cover, once that was off there was 2 screws going through the bottom of the furnace into the floor of the RV holding the unit in place. They were near the outer edge of the furnace where it meets the exterior wall. Not “hidden”, but defintely tucked in around the maze of wires and tubes. Guessing if you can’t remove you probably have something Similiar going on.

Hope that helps, I think it honestly took more time to remove me disassemble then it did to replace the cage.
 
Big question is what guide is used to sort the trouble as there seems to be some ideas on how it works missing. Using inside air for combustion would not seem to be practical at all and that likely means the odds of sorting the trouble go way up.
Have you found the corect model number and looked over the troubleshooting info?
This is what I get when going AI on the manual on the most common furnace used in that line of trailer:
furnace.jpg

When looking for info on how to remove things, I often start with learning what they recommend for installing !
Is the airflow good coming out of the vent? It looks like they use a combined vent system for in and out, so I would want to find if out is near the same as going in by doing a paper test on both. Does the furnace suck a paper tight and does it then blow the paper away when on the output?
One of the things I quickly learned about cold country is that bugs like to move inside before winter! That can make an RV with cover on it a real prize if one is wanting to survive a cold spell!
 
You must pull the outside vent to get it to release. There are other things besides the sail switch in play. The safety loop must be satisfied before it will open the gas valve. This includes the high temp limit switch and the gas valve itself might not be opening. Also a bad control board will cause this at times. The sail switch is the fall guy for everything online. It may not be the sail switch but poor air flow for a couple of reasons.
 
I have a Dometic water heater in my 2026 View and I had the same problem as you describe once when the return air vent got blocked.
 
The exact model is a dometic 39252. I've seen countless videos of similar furnaces removal on youtube. Disconnect vents, power and gas, remove two screws in front and pull. Most of these videos only have to remove 4 screws on the exhaut port on the outside of the trailer. A few have to remove the vent and manifold from the outside as well. This meant cutting through the sealant. I have a hard time understanding how the metal exhaust pipe would "hook" on the furnace and prevent pulling it from the inside. I have yet to find an thorough explanation of the process. The owner manual doesnt mention anything on installation or removal... Whatever the issue is, board or sail switch it seems I can only do it by pulling the unit to get access the back.
 
A search for the heater returns answer that there is no Dometic with that model???? Possible that is a serial number, etc. rather than model number?
AI indicates that model RV should have a Dometic, But possibly DFSD20111 model?
Searching for info on that model shows possible air in the line may be a problem whem blower starts but no igntion. Do other gas items light and work to help clear air in lines after storage?
One of the problems with using AI is that it is giving this discussion as a reference for info! That is NOT what I would call reliable! Loooking for a true manual that I have not found yet!
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If this is the correct model, are you able to remve this front panel to get to the parts for testing?
 

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Thanks Morich. The model seems to be a DFSD20. I found the same manual as you are referencing and it seems to match. It's difficult to get a confirmation as where the furnace sits row now, I don't have access to all stickers.
The refrigerator works fine and the stove also, a clean steady blue flame on all burners.
The unit was installed this way as shown in the install manual. I do not understand how the vent extension and vent assembly could prevent me from removing the unit although my vent assembly isn't straight, there's a angled drop.
The blower starts and powerfull. It's the only this I hear. No clicks for ignition as I would normally hear. I also not seeing any kind of lights indicating a fault but the board is in the back and difficult to see. Removing the fuse and putting in back on doesn't help


Screenshot 2026-05-03 at 12.16.19 PM.png
 
Some more updates as I'm progressing slowly.
I blew and sucked the air from the vent hole outside the trailer. I reset the unit by pulling on the fuse. Then popped the fuse back in and put the thermostat in furnace mode. That time the blower ran continuously but couldn't hear the ignition and air was cold even after 2-3 minutes.
I reset the unit again and tried a second time. That time the blower ran for 20-30 seconds and stopped. I now can see a red blinking glow coming from the back of the unit every 3 seconds indicating a soft lockout because of the limit switch or an airflow problem
 
Okay, some progress is good! But tiresome, for sure!
So so,e basics to think about?
The call for heat is step one and doing that, the blower comes on to verify the gas and any fumes will be moved out. That is where the sail switch comes in as it has to move and close the attached microswitch. when that switch closes, it starts a timer on the board, that is around 30 seconds. That lets the board know the air is moving and safe to let gas flow to be lit. The idea is they do not want to open the ga valve to fil the combustion chamber with gas if the airflow is not good enough to take that gas outside! One possible reason yu do not hear the gas volave click open is that the board has not agreed the airflow is good! No sensing good airflow, no gas let flow! Normally on older furnace, that is a sure sign the sail switch is not moving or the board is bad but in your furnace I also see a second safety item that checks the speed of the blower? Guessing there as no experience with this newer item.
Some questions?
In that drawing snip above, it appears they remove the outer cover to get access to inside and I might assume they would let you get to the sail switch and board connections??? Is that something you can do and follow the directions for checking things without pulling the furnace?
Dometic and Winnebago have both built RV stuff for a very long time and I can't imagine they would suddenly design a furnace that has to be pulled to check basis things like the sail switch and board. But life is full of surprises and anything is possible, so that idea may be wrong!!
But that is part of what makes me keep coming back to checking the sail switch as they are such a common problem and all I have looked at have connections where they can bet ested very easily as they are such a frequent issue.
Common for furnaces to shut down if they do not light in a specific number of tries, so that can be where the limit switch comes in and needs that reset before it will try again. But that also leads to checking airflow and airflow is when I think of sail switch not moving!
But did they put the sail switch somewhere that can't be reached when getting the outside cover off?
 
Well that's exactly what Winnebago did. I've seen threads where people installed a marine screw on cover themselves to access the back of the unit without pulling it...

Should be straightforward though but something hanging to the back and I want to be carefully not to transform a 20$ repair into a furnace replacement
 
Good enough! Lots of things we can't see or know about from here!
As time goes on, we are getting less info than we had gotten used to having online. Seems the way life , in general, is going. Too much tearing down the old for what seems to be a very uncertain future!
 
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