Onan 5500 20 Amp Breaker Trouble on 2009 Winnebago Sightseer 35J

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Original Member Title: Onan 5500 Breakers 2009 Winnebago Sightseer 35J
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The owner of a 2009 Winnebago Sightseer 35J reported the 20A breaker on an Onan 5500 generator tripping, especially while in motion, while the rear air conditioner appeared to run fine on the 30A circuit and the EMS did not show amperage above 20A. The original 20A breaker part number was difficult to find, and the owner later found Cummins information suggesting a 30A breaker kit may replace the 20A breaker when two 30A single-pole breakers are required.

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John Mo

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2007
Posts
379
The 20a breaker is kicking on my Onan 5500 generator. It appears that the breaker has just gotten weak as the rear air will run fine on the 30a circuit and the observed amps on the EMS readout don't spike above 20. It also seems to kick when in motion rather than sitting still. It all kind of points to a weak breaker.

I expected this would be a fairly easy and inexpensive part to swap out and thought I'd change the 30a breaker at the same time on principle since they're both the same age and one is giving me trouble. The 30a breaker isn't as inexpensive as I'd hope and the 20a breaker is surpisingly unobtainium!

The 30a part number is 320-1323 and generally runs around $70, though I've found it here for $25: New Airpax 30 Amp Circuit Breaker I Cummins P/N: 0320-1323 for Sale in Fridley, Minnesota

The 20a part number is 320-2003-01 and can't be found.

Anybody else had to replace the 20a breaker yet? And where did you get it?
 
I've reacheed a point that I go to AI for quicker and more complee answers for some things. Not that
I don't check what it tells me but if a Iput in a brand and part, they can do some real good at times. There are salvage yards as a drop back plan but for small items that wear and are more trouble than expense, I tend to like new===If I can find it!
Any chance JohnMO would be near Carthage, Mo? There is/was a good RV salvage there!
Maybe try those ideas for luck?
Coplilot came on this PC, so what I use.
 
Well, here is some conflicting AI information.
Can you provide the model number of the generator.?
Google says 181-0617 is a good cross and is available thru shop.cummins.com, but Microsoft Co-pilot says it is not, but has a different alternate part number, but those are not in stock.
It seems https://sleequipment.com/ says to call and they have alternate parts you can get?
1785207552840.png

1785207604667.png
 
Thank you for chiming in.

Google Gemini is getting pretty good. I did some more searching this morning and landed on this: https://www.absolutegenerators.com/...Commercial_Mobile_Accessory_Catalog_09-19.pdf where on page 29 we get this:

p/n 0320-1572
Circuit Breaker Kit—30 Amp
DESCRIPTION: Replaces 20 amp breaker when two 30 amp singlepole breakers are required.

Kind of looks like Cummins gave up on using a 20a breaker for the second AC circuit. It had occurred to me that as a temporary fix I could swap the breakers to make it home, but I didn't have tools packed for a weekend trip close-ish to home.

I really needed the 20a circuit to run because my EMS also crapped out on that trip. I couldn't run the front air because the EMS wasn't seeing the generator running and I couldn't run the rear air because the 20a breaker would kick after a short while. I have some AI-assisted leads on that problem, but there may be another thread incoming. :rolleyes:

Tracking down a 30a breaker wasn't much of a problem except the cost. Found one for $35 shipping included here: New Airpax 30 Amp Circuit Breaker I Cummins P/N: 0320-1323 for Sale in Fridley, Minnesota so we'll see how that does.
 
I'm not sure I'm following what you have. Part of that is not knowing which of the four possible wiring setups on the 2009 35J you might have.
But when I look, I'm not seeing one that the EMS seems to get involved with the front AC unit???
On all the different models, it looks like the EMS only involves the frig, converter or water heaters?
Can you point us to which wiring layout you have as I'm confused!
Any chance it is not actually the breaker on the generator but some other small problem? you may be totally correct but I hate to see foliks go to a lot of trouble and expense to change something that doesn't help the problem!
 
I don't have an automatic transfer switch. I'm a 30a unit. To run on the generator, I manually plug my shore power line into an outlet powered by the generator.

I have a rotary switch under the refrigerator that selects between shore power and generator for the rear AC.

For the front AC, power comes through the shore power line all the time.

The (other) problem I have in addition to the 20a breaker on the generator kicking is that my Powerline EMS goes dark when running on the generator. So, no front AC and no nuthin' else that runs on 110v! :oops:

The EMS display is working normally when on shore power.

Between the gimpy 20a breaker on the generator, the EMS flaking on generator power, and vacuum lines under the hood that rotted away a long, long time ago, I have zero AC on the road. Fortunately, it was a mild weekend temperature-wise.

My Google Gemini assistant tells me that the Powerline EMS has to see 12v current on a line from the generator or it will assume there's no 110v power coming in on the shore power line and then shed 100% even though we know there's 110v power available at the generator outlet.

There's a reset procedure for the EMS I haven't been able to go through completely, but I suspect I'll soon be digging around the electrical panel under my refrigerator with a multimeter to verify the 12v signal problem. Would be nice if it was just a fuse, which Gemini has also suggested.
 
I've reacheed a point that I go to AI for quicker and more complee answers for some things. Not that
I don't check what it tells me but if a Iput in a brand and part, they can do some real good at times. There are salvage yards as a drop back plan but for small items that wear and are more trouble than expense, I tend to like new===If I can find it!
Any chance JohnMO would be near Carthage, Mo? There is/was a good RV salvage there!
Maybe try those ideas for luck?
Coplilot came on this PC, so what I use.
I think you're thinking of Colaw RV. Great folks, fair prices and they've got lots of RV salvage parts. They've saved me a few times.

 
Yes, correct place but I have a mental problem with remembering the name!
Not been there in years but still knew they were there. Back in the days when I drove that highway it was a great place for a number of reasons for me.
One is my attitude about wanting to actually see some parts before buying it! When nearby, I could walk in and they let me just look around after they gave me some idea of which way to head out to find anything that involved a brand like something specific to Winnebago, etc.
There were times when I wanted to see how beat up an item might be, so I could take a look first.
But for a specific breaker? The link above and this note on their website makes me want to look for their help in the search as they have lots of RV onsite and one of them may be the winner?
salvage.jpg

salvage2.jpg

On the I-44 frontage road is going that way?
 
I had a rear tire blowout last summer. Once we finally hit the campground, we realized the leveling jack near that tire was now missing the footplate and both springs. (Dammit!). Called Colaw when I got home, gave him model numbers, and he packed up exactly what I needed for over $100 less than what HWH wanted for it! Took 20 min to install it all, and we were back in business! Love those guys. 🙂
 
Fixed all of my problems.

The 30a breaker for the generator was the correct part and replaces the old 20a breaker. No issues on our most recent trip.

The other issue turned out to be the generator socket used by the shore power line was bad. The way the shore line sits when plugged in, the line comes off the bottom of the plug and pretty close to the bottom of the compartment, so the plug has a little pressure on it. I found that pressing the plug a little tighter made a good connection, so I replaced the socket and we're all back to good.

@Morich I appreciate how much I see you jump in to help on so many posts even though you don't currently own a rig.
 
Sounds like you did it right and got down to the true fix without changing out a bunch of parts. I hate changing parts without knowing as it takes a toll on both our mind and body as well as the wallet!
As far as the amount of time I spend? That has several factors built in. One is the amount of time I need to stay close to the computer and the second is that I no longer want to go outside. Our current forecast calls for the temp to be 100 or more on 11 of the next 14 days! THAT definitely puts me inside!
Predictions say cattle begin to die when normal temps reach 120 degrees, so that means the middle of the country is not that far from death!
 
I did throw some parts at the rear air. I figured if it was tripping the breaker after it had run for a few minutes the run capacitor was suspect. Fortunately those are fairly inexpensive and easily installed parts and now I have spares!
 

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