No heat, gas or electric, 2005 Winnebago Journey 36G

2005 Winnebago Journey 36G,
Bob, I tested the Red 12V+ and the Blue 12V- at the thermostat and I did get 12V. I guess that means the Thermostat is good. Is that the way you read it?
I did take the cover off of the Gas furnace and i'm not getting any voltage on any of the wires i can get to without removing the furnace to access more.
I did test them with the thermostat calling for Gas Heat first and then with the thermostat off.
 
It doesn't necessarily mean it's good, just that it's getting the 12V voltage it needs.

I didn't research everything in the manuals I linked to but there should be a troubleshooting section somewhere to sort out a no heat problem.

One question we never asked. Did this ever work on heating (furnace or heat pump) or is this MH totally new to you?
 
Richard, what do you think about the mismatch between the JM, JJ an JB codes and those in Winnebago's list of wire codes and colors?

I don't have a problem with the thermostat, Winnebago and furnace colors not being the same as long as the colors match up correctly in the two connectors and on the thermostat terminal block.

Given a long enough test wire w/alligator clips and a multimeter, one could test continuity between the two connectors.

I see no problem with the mismatch that would keep things from working!
BUT it certainly makes life more difficult than we might like?
Instead of just trying to remember that pins 1,2,3, are JM, JJ, and JB like they are on the furnace end, we need to keep in mind that those three wires are found on pins 2, 3, 1, at the thermostat end!
If life were simple, the folks who do the pins for the furnace and the thermostat would agree which way they wanted to build things!
Kind of like dealing with Celsius and Fahrenheit except far less reason and history? Out here in the real world where us rookies try to figure things, it just adds another layer of potential screwups!
jb,jm, jj.jpg


If we look for power on the plug at the furnace, it should be on wire JB at pin
3. But if we want to look for that same power at the thermostat plug, we should find it on wire JB but on pin 1 of the plug for the thermostat!
That makes life hard but then it also throws in some more doubt. If this thermostat builder and furnace builder did not agree with how to wire the plugs, what do we get if we buy a different brand thermostat and that builder wires their thermostat in yet another way?

It's almost like we are trying to put a hubcap from a Chevy on a Ford! The only way we can find out is to try it to see if it works?

That's not a real happy thought! :oops:

Then we get into the labeling on the board. When it is labeled 12 positive, that seems clear as our RV operate on positive voltage.
But that 12V negative seems like they are speaking a different way.
If you test from 12 positive to 12negative you get 24 volts difference.
That makes me believe the 12 negative is actually just what most call ground or zero! It is the negative side of the 12volt system but not negative in the way we normally speak. We mostly use ground as the reference and measure from there in the RV /automotive world.

Do you have a brand and model number for the furnace and thermostat you now have?
I would expect there to be a wire to bring 12VDC from the fuse to the furnace and I think I've always found that with just taking the outside cover off.
But if we can get a manual for the specific furnace you have, it often shows a troubleshooting chart as well as where and how to wire when we install the furnace!
 
I just purchased this and I never tested the heat. The AC was working when I looked at it and it was warm outside. I purchased it from a friend and he said it was working the last time they used it, however that was 6 years ago.
 
Yes, sounds like a very logical thing to do! And we can never say that it was the friend's fault or point fingers in that way, as the big beasts we drive are known to do things for unknown reasons!
Part of the problem is that we don't drive them often enough and consistently to keep corrosion off them!
It's common for things like lawnmowers to give us trouble when we store them over the winter. Those things are a hundred times worse for RV storage and get worse if it goes for years! My mower doesn't even HAVE air conditioning!

But what you've told us may have some clues?
If we think of the 12VDC as the power to run controls and it goes through the furnace to the thermostat where it slits, depending on which switches are set there, before going back to the furnace, to the rear for heat or air, it may be a hint!
When looking and the air was okay, the 12volt control was getting through all the way from battery to thermostat and to the rear AC.
Slightly different path at the thermostat but the AC was good.
So now ALL heat is bad. So it would seem the problem is not as likely to be at the rear but at a point where power to control that as well as the propane furnace are passing?

Not saying it has to be one single problem but looking at odds being more likely to have one single problem that kills both front and rear heat.

Since the front heat is much les complex wiring and operation, that is where I come down to wanting to know the 12VDC gets from battery to furnace, to thermostat as that seems to be what the Winn drawings show as the path!
Heat pumps and air tend to be much bigger issues with multiple items to snag us. They need both 12VDC controls and 110AC to run things.

If you can snag us a brand and model number off the furnace, we might assume we can drag up some drawings that point to exactly where to find those connections on your specific furnace.
If it is true that you are getting 12vdc and ground at the thermostat, it may be a case of finding why it is not getting sent back to the furnace to make the blower start there.
Boiling it down to things we do more often, it is like the thermostat is just a simple switch for a light. If you are getting power to the switch, why is the light not working?
Maybe the thermostat (switch?) is bad but it may be as simple as the wire going back to the furnace is corroded!
But we need to know where that connection is on the furnace! And that will not be Winnebago info but info from the folks who built the furnace.
 
2005 Winnebago Journey 36G
Richard,
I need to be schooled on how to attach a picture in this forum. It ask for a URL instead of a JPG or a PNG. If I knew how, I could send you the pics i've taken.
Having said that. The gas furnace is a Suburban Model SH-42
Thanks,
Monty
 
Yes, the posting is often a question.
When you have the picture on computer, hit "go advanced button at bottom of a new post.
That brings a different screen with paper clip at top to hit.
That bring up a section to choose file. Clicking that lets you choose the file from your computer!
choose from pictures, downloads or where you have it.
Once moved to that screen, don't fail to hit "upload" !!
That puts it under the paperclip on the posting.
You can leave it there and it will show at the end of your post OR to put it in a specific spot within the post, move curser to a spot, click and THEN go to under the paper clip to choose which picture to place in that spot.
It never hurts to check the picture before posting! If using a phone camera, it may not come out right side up like from a camera as phones have features and don't put that info into the picture, so other items know which way is up!

Another one of a long line of things we were never meant to know?
Will do a look for info that furnace and see what we are looking to find! :thumb:
 
1. I looked at the parts manual for the 2005 Journey 36G and it lists two possibilities for furnace model:

FURNACE - 35000 BTU/HIGH QUIET - SUBURBAN SH-35 2322
FURNACE - 40000 BTU HIGH QUIET - SUBURBAN SH-40 2322

Unless it's been replaced which is possible but unlikely, it should be one of these.

By the way, I'm getting the links to the Winnebago diagrams, parts manual, etc. from this link. Bookmark it, it's a fabulous resource unique to Winnebago:

https://www.winnebago.com/owners/owner-resources

2. Here's the link to the SH-35 manuals. I couldn't easily find the same for the SH-40, but I'm pretty certain the wiring diagrams are the same based on what I see for other Suburban models. The wiring diagram is on p.6 of the Installation Manual:

https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/technical-service-manuals/suburban-sh-35/

218744-albums415-picture3750.png


3. You can see the same wire colors as on the Winnebago schematic at the furnace connectors, Red, Yellow and two Blues. I'm not sure which of the two Blues is the one used in the Winnebago diagram but you should be able to tell by their order on the connector.
 
Maybe a place to check 12VDC and ground get to furnace if you are able to spot that?
Not finding reset info yet!
You may not get to this right away but I will look for info and send it along as I find it. I often have downtime where I need to be handy, so looking at this sort of thing can be fine for me! I tend to waste as much time as used some days!
furnace input 12V.jpg
 
Page 26 of this manual:
https://manuals.heartlandowners.org...CE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf
It tells how the thermostat may get into lockout. Mentions it may need to be reset. But I've not found how??
View attachment 190540

Would reset of the thermostat be considered thermostat info and need that manual? Or would it be furnace info? DUH? :oops:

I don't know what model thermostat this is about but I've seen instructions for resetting Coleman Mach thermostats, which are newer than the one we're dealing with. It looks like removing all power from the T-stat by removing the onboard fuse for several minutes should reset it. I'm not sure this is an issue with the T-stat in the 36G but it can't hurt.

Bob
 
Found some info ?
This manual:
https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale....rban-Gas-Furnace-Model-SH-42-Users-Manual.pdf
Page 3 might be a problem to check. Not something I have needed to do but it refers to a reset of the thermostat!
Not found how at this point? More study needed here! :blush:
Click for better view!

View attachment 190538

Do Bob or others know this? Feel free to jump in as I am not a furnace /AC guy!

Sorry, I don't know anything about Suburban furnaces. I've had three RVs, two TTs and my MH and have never had a problem with the furnace except when my TT was rear-ended and the furnace had to be replaced.
 
It seems like a problem that I could see happen fairly often. If the furnace doesn't light, it would be my normal deal to try it again! So it says if we do that it locks out and we need to reset the thermostat?
Would it be fair to ask them how? Or is that part of the thermostat builders game and we have to find their manual?
I guess I'm narrow minded but if the furnace builder tells us about a shutdown/lockout, It feels right to be told how!

If the lockout idea could be a part of the problem, we then need to know which thermostat we are dealing with now and look for info on lockouts and resets on it?
Seems like a common problem on lots of things, each part has no idea of making it simple to work on the whole.
 
As wild shot in the dark ,we can ask the AI?
Does it know? Does this sound like the right stat?
Maybe good idea? Maybe not! :laugh:
Click snip to get better view!
RV compfot.jpg
 
I think it's time to swich off both RVP basement breakers, remove the electrical panel face, then look for corroded wire connections on the control board, cleaning each terminal connection as you go.
If all control board connections are clean and tight, turn on the breakers and test for 12V at each of the 2 relays it top right corner.

These are easy to identify, because they are the only wires from the control board to the compressor relays. They switch the 120VAC contact in each compressor controller.
#1 compressor relay is the top one, and it it does not run the control board will not allow #2 compressor(bottom relay) to run..
The wiring schematic is on the back of the control board face-if the control board is the original.
 
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2005 Winnebago Journey 36G No Heat problems

2005 Winnebago Journey 36G
UPDATE 12-23-24
I took a chance and ordered a Thermostat from amazon. It was only $52 and it said it replaced mine. It came in today and I am proud to say, it appears it is working like a charm. see attached pics
Thanks for all of the help and input and I pray you all will have a Merry Christmas
 

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Congrats! Sometimes it pays to take a chance! If you are happy, I'm happy!

But one question has me hung up and you might have an answer handy?
Did the new thermostat come with any directions which mention a reset if it winds up in the lockout they mentioned above?
Not to bug you about what you found as a solution but it would be good to know this is a possible problem if we run across the same question later??

And from your side of the question, I would then want to have that info filed away with my little bits and pieces of ideas of how to cope with our big old box full of troubles we drive down the road!!

Kind of like when we get locked out? We like to know where we might have hidden a key! Did they give you any hidden keys with the new thermostat?
 

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