Nice camping weekend but my Air died !!

[pameridan04]

Hi Guys:

Spent a nice camping weekend with Racer7 and his wife in VA. But Friday afternoon when the temp hit 90 + degrees, my air conditioner DID NOT WORK. It seemed the compressors kick on, but no fan was running in the bottom back of the coach where the AC units are. Eventually the breakers would kick. The fan pushing the air on the inside of the coach was working, but just blowing hot air.

I am hoping it is a condenser or something and isn't a compressor. What do you think? Am I looking at an expensive repair job?

Regards Jim P.

 

[KIX-WO]

It's pretty difficult to help you diagnose your A/C problem long-distance but.........if it were me I would take to cover off of the A/C electrical panel (outside on a basement A/C unit) and take a look at the components. Look for signs of burning like charring. If I were a betting man I would bet on a bad capacitor for the OD fan.

 

[Petro]

Jim;

Hopefully you will find the problem without removing the unit for service. One of our members (Duner) wrote up a small manual on the removal, repair, and replacement of our central units. I believe if you contact him he could email you his write up. I carry it with me in my coach just in case.

Don

 

[pameridan04]

Hi Guys:

Thanks for the info, but unfortunatley electrial maintenance is not my strong suit. I will drop off the coach at my RV dealer tommorrow night.

Regards... Jim P.

 

[dengraham]

Sounds like a bad capacitor. Easy fix.

 

[DAN L-WO]

Hi Guys:

Spent a nice camping weekend with Racer7 and his wife in VA. But Friday afternoon when the temp hit 90 + degrees, my air conditioner DID NOT WORK. It seemed the compressors kick on, but no fan was running in the bottom back of the coach where the AC units are. Eventually the breakers would kick. The fan pushing the air on the inside of the coach was working, but just blowing hot air.

I am hoping it is a condenser or something and isn't a compressor. What do you think? Am I looking at an expensive repair job?

Regards Jim P.

you don't say but i suspect you have the coleman true air basement ac.
if that is true, there are 2 systems. there are 2 110v circuit breakers that have to be on for them to work.
you need good voltage, at least 105 volts. the voltage goes low in some cg's when it gets hot and everyone wants to use their air conditioners. low voltage is a major cause of capacitor overheating and failure. sometimes i have to open the breaker on my #2 system to keep the voltage above 105v and can only use 1/2 of my system. that is still better than nothing.
if the #1 system has a problem, the #2 system will not start or operate.
if you open the large access door that covers your ac unit, you will see a small panel cover that is removable. if your #1 start capacitor or relay or whatever is smoked, just change the wiring terminals so that the #1 system control circuit will actually operate the #2 system. make sure that the circuit breakers are off before touching the electrical components. this way, you should be able to get half of your ac system operating in less than 20 minutes.
imho, the #1 system start capacitor or relay is likely the cause of your problem. if replacing the capacitor, use the improved "hard start" capacitor. the fan motor system has capacitors also. the capacitors and relays are not expensive.
check duners threads for pictures and a more detailed procedure.

 

[RCtime]

Airxcel | RV Products Service

Jim

I strongly suggest you go to this site and get the nearest authorized service center near you.

I have found that our Winnebago dealers are not as knowledgable or as equipped to service our AC units as these guys are.

While they are inspecting it, ask them if you have the hard start kit installed. If not do it.

Good luck.

 

[AFChap]

I strongly suggest you go to this site and get the nearest authorized service center near you.

I have found that our Winnebago dealers are not as knowledgable or as equipped to service our AC units as these guys are.

. Absolutely right! My best repairs have an Itasca dealer, a trailer dealer, and an independent service shop.

 

[KirbyRVA]

Airxcel | RV Products Service

Jim

I strongly suggest you go to this site and get the nearest authorized service center near you.

I have found that our Winnebago dealers are not as knowledgable or as equipped to service our AC units as these guys are.

While they are inspecting it, ask them if you have the hard start kit installed. If not do it.

Good luck.

Like you, my rig is approaching the 10 yr mark and I've not had AC problems....yet. We're heading out mid June and I'd not like to have AC problems I cannot have a chance to resolve. Is the 'hard start kit' available from the average AC parts house or is it something I need to get from AirExcel/Coleman?

 

[Petro]

Like you, my rig is approaching the 10 yr mark and I've not had AC problems....yet. We're heading out mid June and I'd not like to have AC problems I cannot have a chance to resolve. Is the 'hard start kit' available from the average AC parts house or is it something I need to get from AirExcel/Coleman?

I also am interested, as smlranger is, in the hard start kit.

DM

 

[RCtime]

I obtained my hard start kit when I had some repair work done at an authorized repair center in the Los Angeles area.
When I picked the unit up he had installed it. $19.00 parts, if I remember correctly.
I noticed a difference in how much more easily the compressors spool up.
The tech. said he upgrades all his customers AC units he works on.
I had a freon leak patched on the #1 compressor side of the system.
I would call one of the service centers and see what they have to say.

 

[pameridan04]

Dropped my coach off at my RV shop. He is going to check it out. I asked about a Hard Start kit. He said it is just a capacitor or an extra capacitor. He said they started using them on the Coleman roof units when they went to 30 amp. But he never heard them being used on the Coleman basement units. He is going to check it out for me. He did say they were only like $20 bucks.

I am hoping it is the #1 capacitor and not a condensing or compressor unit.

I will let you know the damage..$$$

Regards Jim P.

 

[pameridan04]

Well the RV place just called. The problem with my A/C is the fan motor froze up. He got it running again and said there is a greese fitting on there.... BUT you have to drop the whole unit to get at it!!!!

Do I greese the old unit and put back, Orrrrr just replace the motor? I am waiting for a price on a new fan motor now???

What you think???

Regards Jim P.

 

[pameridan04]

Well the new fan motor is $295.00... They also suggested I put in a new capacitor and arm for total parts of $390.00.. Since it cost about $255 in labor or more just to drop the units I said to go with the new parts.

Looks like all up all in around $750.00 I guess it could have been worse. I got a price on a rebuilt rear hydrolic jack for $495.00.... I said forget it for now, I will spray it with silicone, it goes up then...lol

Just another lesson learned on the putting out of rvbucks.

Regards... Jim P.

 

[RCtime]

Yes, there is one of those flip up caps where you can oil , but I thought it was on the fan bearings
The top metal cover of the AC unit has to be removed to look down on the fan I assume because Mine was removed when I was looking at these lube point.
Does your unit have to be removed to replace the motor anyway? If so it should be a no charge item to mearly flip the cap open and oil it.
Dilemma for you I guess, If its running now, take a chance and it just may go for years or crap out next week.
I guess the price point when he gets back to you will help you decide, now or later.

 

[Petro]

Jim;

I believe you did the right thing. While it is out fix it up right and be done with it.

Don

 

[AFChap]

problem with my A/C is the fan motor froze up. He got it running again and said there is a greese fitting on there....

I got taken TWICE by RV dealer service shops (two different ones, both of whom I found later were NOT listed as certified service locations) who said "it just needs lubed and blower runout adjusted ...both times within 4 months I had to have the unit pulled again and a blower motor replaced. That is how I learned to check first to see where the certified service people are rather than just trusting a dealership to know what they are doing. I think 2006 was the outside blower motor and 2007 was the inside blower motor. You were VERY smart to replace the blower motor while it was out.

Some have put sealed bearings in when they pull the unit themselves, eliminating the oil port. (I too believe the oil port is on the blower cage bearings, NOT on the motor).

 

[pameridan04]

Hi Guys:

Yeah I understand about trusting an RV shop. Harold at Harolds RV has always been a straight shooter. We hit it off a few years ago and we are both brother African big game hunters. He knows I would shoot him if he screwed me around on pricing.

I got a weekender camping trip at the end of the month then a full week in MI in August.

I don't mind paying for something I can't fix, or is above my head. But I am not paying $495 for a rebuilt HWH hydrolic jack. I will pull it out myself and send to HWH and get it rebuilt if I have to.

Thus ends this saga of of the broken A/C units..

Regards Jim P.

 

[pushtrk99]

ac problems

JIM if it is going to cost 750 why not replace ac with a new one-i would guess it probably wouldn't be much more for a new unit--Rich

 

[AFChap]

why not replace ac with a new one-i would guess it probably wouldn't be much more for a new unit

He has a dual compressor basement ac/heat pump unit that is ducted through the ceiling ...not your average ac unit by any means ...far more capable than a little roof-top unit. I wonder what a complete new unit would cost?? ...though I see no indication he needs one...