Magnum Inverter Fault 2013 Tour 42QD

[Orracle]

Hey all - Happy Thanksgiving!

2013 Winnebago Tour 42QD
Magnum Inverter

House batteries were shot, replaced them this week. All 6. Everything working as expected in the coach now both on shore power and when disconnected and inverting.

But, still gives DC Overload fault on battery and AC Overload fault on shore.

Manual and online suggests restarts of inverter. Have done all it suggests.

Hoping someone here has had this issue and some guidance on where to find what I assume is a short somewhere causing it to draw too much.

Thank you!
Lyle

 

[Morich]

I might want to start with isolating the cause of the alarm. Is it an actual overload or is it a problem with the monitoring?
If you are in the right situation to turn some things off and not mess with your day too much, perhaps cutting the loads at the breakers would be a reasonably quick way to start to sort the question?

I'm not sure I see this as an inverter problem with the info given??
With it giving alarms both when connected and not, I might lean more toward it being a monitor problem than an inverter problem.

I might start with trying to find which, if any, breaker would remove any actual overload in the RV. A real problem with both AC and DC overload seems not likely , but that is pure guess!
Maybe there is an actual overload or maybe the monitoring is the real problem? I suspect monitor but testing is needed to sort which.

We have a drawing online which will show where each circuit that is fed by the inverter might be cut off by flipping the correct breakers!
Drawing of the 110AC portion of your RV here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/2013/13_wire_180447.pdf

The total drawing may be a bit too much if you are not used to reading this sort of thing. I have done a smaller snip of what I would propose and then if you need the big picture, you may want to go the full drawings more more info. The drawing is too large to get a snip of it all and still be large enough to read, so consider this part of the picture?
Click this snip for better view or go direct?


There should be an inverter sub section in the breaker panel with a main breaker that then feeds different smaller breakers. This section get the 110AC power from the inverter and feeds the RV items as marked in red.

One way to sort if there is an actual overload from somethin in the RV, is to flip the inverter sub main breaker. That removes any potential overload from some item along that path failing!
If the overload alarm still shows up, we would have to assume it is NOT from failure along the outgoing path from the RV.

However, if the alarm is cleared when we do that, we may want to sort it down to WHICH circuit has the problem that causes the alarm.
We can turn the inverter main back on and go through flipping each of the smaller breakers to try to find the one which causes the alarm?

 

[Lv2Roam2]

Your Magnum manual (print and on-line) should describe a 'soft and hard' reset process you could try - but I've found the Magnum techs know this stuff well. Recommend you scan all the inverter/charger settings and write them down - then call the help line and talk it through with the techs.
They just recently walked us through some changes in the charging parameters and diagnosed a problem with the Magnum module attached to the batteries (causing a false reading).
Let us know what results - we all learn...

 

[cruizered]

Magnum 2812 faults normally clear without reset.

Is it a 2812, do you have an ME-RC or other advanced remote?

I've had lots of over load faults because of some brain damage with the load management system. I've also had battery faults. They always clear themselves once the fault cause was removed. Never needed to do any reset.

Typically it is very important to look at the last thing you did when a new problem arises right after doing that "last thing". Not sure what you could have done but review that carefully.

After reviewing the work and not finding a cause start the inverter with the main barker on the sub panel off. This should eliminate all loads. IF the inverter starts ok then you work forward from there. If the inverter still faults the only and very unlikely problem is a short on the leads from the inverter to the sub panel. You could disconnect the 120V leads from the invert just to be sure. If it fails this test you'll be disconnecting them anyway to pull it.

No short then your invert probably has a bad control board. Since the problem is not intermittent it will probably be easy to repair.

An advanced remote is a great thing to have, takes a lot of mystery out of what is going on. You could add a BMS also if you have an advanced remote. The BMS not only lets you know about your battery state but it give the inverter better voltage readings for the batteries.