Low WaterPressure 2012 Adventurer 35P

[Mtgator]

Have a 2012 Adventurer 35p. Experiencing low water pressure. Comes and goes in galley sink. Stays low in bathroom and shower. Good pressure at spigot. To test I have removed outside water filter and pressure regulator. Doesn't increase flow. Are there valves or check valves somewhere in the lines?

 

[Lv2Roam2]

I don't know your rig so can't address flow restrictors - but some things to check: at each faucet look at the outlet screens for clogging, check your whole house filter, and check your pump filter. Then, while on water pump only and all faucets turned off check for intermittent pump runs - if yes, there may be a leak somewhere in the system. Let us know how it works out - we all learn.
And there'll be some other chiming in...

 

[be happy]

When talking about water pressure or lack of, the first thing that comes to mind are the screens on each faucet. Each faucet will have a screen on the end, unscrew and make sure the screen is clean. One question how is the pressure in the toilet? there no screen there.
Another thing I look for is a kink in the hose. It does not take much of a kink to slow pressure down.

 

[Morich]

Some points say it is a simple flow problem due to restrictions but then a stopped up strainer is not likely to be a come and go thing!
I see nothing on the drawings that would seem to lead to intermittent operation. But that might changed depending if the problem is on cold or hot only or if it is on both.

But that is when it is very easy to get confusion when dealing with things if we don't get down to some real testing. One of the confusion factors in water is how we often speak of pressure when we are actually speaking of a volume problem.
One of those things where it is really easy to get into an argument, so I often stay out until more info is available.

I might suggest getting some "numbers" or quantities from different places. With actual amounts in hand, one can then go looking for problems on that portion of the lines where things don't work as well. It will be important to know if there is an actual difference in the pressure or volume at different times.
Depending on where the RV is connected, the pressure on the water system may be enough to make you suspect an RV problem?

Best not to try to repair the RV until certain it is an RV problem, rather than a water supply problem. A flow problem can be a change in water pressure or it might be something as simple as a screw at a faucet that should hold a faucet washer has dropped off and is rolling around inside the faucet, sometimes flowing flow and sometimes letting it run!

I might suggest going to the interactive parts drawings here:
https://catalog.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
Using those and looking at where lines run, I might start at the port and work my way further into the RV, checking volume over some given time like a minute and try to get a better idea of what is actually there. Judging water by pressure alone is pretty tricky as each faucet has a different spray pattern and the way it comes out. Thinking of the difference in a shower head versus the kitchen faucet?

But that leaves lots of room for confusion, so more info may help.

 

[Mtgator]

Thanks We are doing some more trouble s hooting. One other issue that maybe contributing. We were having a problem where the city water fill was actually sending water to the tank and coach. Replaced the diverter vale and worked for a short time. Now when we have on city water it is sending water both ways again. Is there any other valve in that line?

 

[Morich]

Did a check of the water drawings and find there are two different builds for your RV.
Can you check the 7th digit of your serial number for 1 as the early build or 2 as late build. If not familiar with that point, it should be listed as the serial number (NOT VIN) on a label next to the driver's left side.
Best to get the right drawing first to cut confusion as hose water lines are not always the clearest thing to follow, so better to start with the right one if we can!

Looking closer, there seems no difference to matter on this question!
Main difference seems to be location of the fresh port versus the flushing port, (on left or right?)
But both show the diverter should simply cut the path for water coming in on hose off from going to the tank going across the the tank.
Not as much choosing which direction to go as water should always go inside but the diverter opens/closes the path to the tank!
Click these for best view and look which fits what you have?




Note that I failed to add the slash marks for where the valve should cut flow!
MISTAKE! I refer to left and right as viewed from the front/ outside, not as shown in reverse on these snips!

At the tank, there are no real surprise. Just a fill line coming in from hose through diverter valve and direct to top of tank. You have two tanks, both filled to one and then runs to the other.
Overflows and connection between them.
Then also a connection for the pump to draw a suction and get water from the tank. Pretty standard other than having two instead of one.


The pump area is a mess to follow but there "may" be some way for a check valve that is built into the pump "might" let water from hose go backward through pump to tank?? Not one I think of much but I can't say it won't either!
I marked up a bunch of this messy place for where I see things happen and about the only idea I came up with to prove if water is going backwards is to remove a connection at the pump and cap it while seeing if the tank still filled? Not a happy idea, for sure! No idea of how hard to get to this spot
even!

Alternate ideas?
Is the little filter at the pump clear and could you see if water was running back through it? That seems like a long trip and through lots of restrictions if you are getting much water into the tank when it should be cut off at the diverter valve!
Seems another failed diverter would be the more likely but life is NOT that dependable!
Any chance you can reach up under and hind the panel at the diverter valve and feel is water is going to the tank there or it changes when you move the valve? Put hot water in the port and feel that long line going over to the tank from the port to see if that line gets hot right away? When the diverter is closed, NO water should be moving in that pipe!

Sorry, lots more ideas than solid info on what is wrong!