Lost AC Power at My Receptacles

[Rodger-WO]

I have my Journey connected to 110 volts at my house. For some reason I have no voltage to the receptacles. I had voltage before then disconnected to go have new tires put on. When I came back and plugged back into the 110 volts I had no voltage. I checked the breakers under the bed, think the receptacles had been tripped. Reset all of the breakers and still no 110. I have voltage to the clock on the microwave and the refrigerator but none at the receptacles. Cannot test the GFI's since I have no power but I tried resetting the GFIs anyway, nothing happened. I know it is probably simple but nothing comes to mind.

 

[be happy]

Just taking a stab in the dark here. Could the microwave and frig be running off the invertor? Do you have power when you run the generator?

Did you check to make sure you have power at the house outlet?

 

[Rodger-WO]

I have power when I am on the generator. I also have power in the bedroom and in the cabinet where the washer/dryer hook to the water supply. The microwave and refrigerator lights come on inside the fridge. The light and clock on the microwave come on. There is no power at my GFCI's and at the receptacle behind the passenger seat. The GFCI's will not trip I push the test button nor will they reset. I have checked the circuit breakers and reset them just in case.

 

[BCam]

Here's a link to your wiring diagram which may help. I've found that it helps to work back and forth between the wiring diagram and the installation diagram to ID locations. It will be best if you have a multimeter so you can check for voltage on each side of your breakers.

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/Wiring.htm

 

[be happy]

The frig light is 12v so thats on different power source.

Something similar happened to me years back, not sure if same will be true for you however. Make sure you have NO power coming into your coach, via generator or plugged in. Go to the 120v breaker panel and take off the cover that protects the breakers and wiring. Take your trusty screw driver and tighten all the screws that holds the wires down. One on each breaker and ones on the neg. bar.

If your coach is like my 07 sounds like all work except from frig forward. On mine I have an outside outlet in one of the bays thats a GFCI check that.

I would then take Bobc's idea of the using the wiring diagram.

Good Luck

 

[Rodger-WO]

Looking at the diagrams, I am hooked to 110 house volts. While looking at them it dawned on me that the 110 is only feeding one side of the 50 amp socket. So considering this I should only have 110 volts on one leg instead of both. Would that be correct, maybe that is why the GFI's are not working to include anything connected to that side.

 

[BCam]

1. Are you sure you're getting 110/120V from your house? It's possible that either a breaker or, more likely, a GFCI has been tripped. Since it was working before you took you had your tires installed, I would suspect this rather than your adapter or anything in your MH. As you know, GCFI's can be finicky.

2. I don't have 50A service in my MH but my understanding is that the adapter should apply 110/120V to both legs. Here's a thread on a similar problem from the Forest River forums. The poster is plugging into a Honda generator, but that's immaterial, it has a standard 3-prong household-style outlet:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f23/50-to-20-amp-adapter-74179.html

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it was resolved, but the responses should help you understand how it should work.

3. As with any electrical troubleshooting like this, you need to start at the initial supply point (your house outlet), determine if there's proper voltage there, if OK, move to the adapter, checking for proper voltage at the 50A end when plugged into your house socket, If OK, then to the input side of your breakers, etc. Randomly plugging things in isn't going to be diagnostic as to point of failure.

4. A multimeter is the best tool to figure this out. A non-contact voltage tester would work in most cases but it will only tell you if voltage is present, not how much. Both are good tools to have. An inexpensive multimeter like the $6.99 one from Harbor Freight would be adequate. Here are links to it, plus a non-contact tester:

https://www.harborfreight.com/elect...ters/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/non-c...9.html?_br_psugg_q=non+contact+voltage+tester

 

[Rodger-WO]

I have 120 volt coming from my house, the adapter has a light in it showing voltage there. I think I may have a bad breaker since I have some voltage at some of my receptacles and not at others.

 

[Rodger-WO]

Looking at the wiring diagrams it also says that house power (120V) is going to only be on one leg of the wire coming into the breaker box. Checking the adapter that plugs into the 120V the two legs that are suppose to have voltage, when hooked to a 30 amp voltage source they are not connected. I also have a pigtail that connects to the 30 amp adapter, then connects to the main input and it only has voltage on one of the legs. Not sure if this plain enough but I only have power on one of the main wires in the breaker box yet there are 3 breakers for receptacles. Everything works correctly when on the generator.

 

[bigb56]

Normally the adapters will take the one hot leg from your 120 volt circuit and bridge it to both hot blades on the 50 amp side so you will have 120 volts on each leg. If your adapter isn't doing that then yes you only have power to half of your RV's electrical panel.

 

[peggwn]

Rodger, did you happen to notice the AMP rating for the breaker in your S&B house? If you haven't done so, you might check the outlet you used for the MH. I have had my breaker trip when exceeding 15Amps in the coach because I was plugged into the house outlet. I now have a 20Amp breaker in my dock/garage, so that happens much less often when I plug in there. Also, the extension cord is much shorter so less resistance. Just a thought. Good luck.

 

[Rodger-WO]

I have power to one side of my main breaker in my M/H, plus I have 120V on my extension cord. I lose it somewhere between my extension cord and where it goes into the M/H.

 

[bigb56]

I have power to one side of my main breaker in my M/H, plus I have 120V on my extension cord. I lose it somewhere between my extension cord and where it goes into the M/H.

See post #10. What are you using for adapters? are you going from an ordinary house plug to a 30 amp RV plug to a 50 amp RV plug (2 adapters total)?

 

[RayIN]

I'd be checking the adapters for proper continuity first.

 

[wahoonc]

Check the adapter for continuity, it should have a bridge so you get 120v on both legs. The other possibility could be an issue in your transfer switch.

Aaron

 

[Rodger-WO]

whoonc, I check my adapter the 120 plugs into. I get no continuity in the adapter. I do see a white and black wire in it but they must not be hooked together. Someone said something about the inverter.

 

[Rodger-WO]

This is the adapter I have. Where the arrow points looks to be the crossover connection to give 120V to both wires at the 30amp adapter to the main power line to the inverter then to the breaker box. When I check continuity on the 30amp side of the adapter I do not continuity. I think the adapter does not operate correctly.

 

[wahoonc]

Is your Journey a 30 amp or 50 amp? How many pins are on the RV plug?

You should only have continuity from the pin to the corresponding plug on the other side. No bridge on a 15/30 adapter. I think someone was thinking that if you have an inverter it is providing power to your microwave and fridge.

Aaron

 

[Rodger-WO]

My Journey is 50 amp. There are 3 spade lugs and a ground. I have 12 volts where I should have it from the house batteries.

 

[bigb56]

The bridge is in the 30 to 50 adapter, not the 15 to 30 that you pictured. What are you using to go from the 3 prong 30 amp to the 4 prong 50 amp?