Thanks for coming back and providing the info BB gave you.
I have ordered this isolator. It looks like it is going to take some experimenting, or emails, to understand its operation.
After reviewing Winnebagos wiring diagram, I got out the multi-meter and had the wife flip some switches for me. I then called Battleborn and confirmed my findings and asked some questions. I should be installing the new batteries next week and will swap out the solenoid then. But here are my findings, I made an easier to read diagram over an actual picture of my realy / solenoid system.
My Wiring Diagram:
https://imgur.com/a/6jcJYTc
From the factory the yellow wire connected to the solenoid is "hot" whenever either the engine is on and running (ignition) OR the factory battery boost switch is pressed. Which makes the solenoid connect the chassis and coach battery together.
On our coach (Itasca Viva) the relay / battery disconnect (aka the black box) does not have to be replaced. That way we keep the ability to turn off 12v to the coach and generator with a simple switch by the door.
I'm going to try and keep it simple, here we go:
The solenoid (silver can) will be removed and replaced with the switch I linked (
https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop/lifepo4-battery-isolation-manager/ ) which has specific voltage switches for lithium. Other wise the factory one will not charge the coach lithiums due to them holding a higher voltage normally.
The red wire coming from the left (with red wrapping) is the Chasis battery positive. Which will go to the Chasis side of the new switch.
The red wire with yellow wrapping is the coach battery positive and will go to the coach slot on the new switch.
The ground will go to a ground (negative), easy enough.
The yellow small wire attached to the solenoid will be moved to the IGN spot on the new switch. That wire will need to be spliced and then go to the SIG spot as well on the new switch.
It will work like this.
When the engine is on, that yellow wire will let the new switch know, and allow it to charge the new chassis batteries.
When the engine is not on and you need a boost. You press and hold the factory battery boost switch. It will power the switch and keep the coach and chassis battery connected as long as that switch is being held.
Basically the factory relay system will have the factory switches attached to it and will still turn off 12v to the coach and generator. It will also handle the part of sending the IGN or SIG current to the new switch to allow the batteries to connect to each other when either the ignition is on (running) or the factory battery boost switch is pressed. Oh and it will get rid of the clicking noise you get from the solenoid apparently.
al1florida Since our coach already has a factory 5 amp circuit breaker built in for the yellow wire (which is hot when either the engine is on, or the battery boost switch is held). I asked Battleborn if I needed to step that down to a 2 amp fuse (per the wiring diagram they sent me). She asked and said it will not be a problem. I even mentioned that the IGN side of the diagram is not even fused on their diagram and it will be the same spliced wire due to our factory system. She said no problem and even double checked to make sure. Which means as you mentioned earlier, it can be wired to a positive connection. Also if you don't have the "battery boost" switch on your RV then you don't need to wire anything to the SIG spot, it is only there for a booster type connection.
I have been extremely impressed with Battleborn. They answered very fast and with no transfers was able to answer the questions I had. Just awesome.
. They were slammed when I called on Black Friday and told me that I would need one. I had talked to the Battle Born owners while at Nomadfest and they told me I needed one as well. But didn't say why and I was asking other questions and forgot to get more details on the iso manager as I was asking questions about the batteries mainly.
