Inverter install on prepped 2024 Micro Minnie 2108DS

Glad its working out. I currently have a new matching GoPower "Expansion" solar panel still in the box (from etrailer if your wondering) and a softstartrv A/C gizmo is in the mail now. After the roof top adventures I'll install an inverter, and maybe another pair of 6v GC2 batteries?

Where is that camping spot Mike? I'm in Twin Falls, so always curious were the good spots are on the BLM.
 
If you plan on off-grid camping you really should consider adding a shunt-based battery monitor. They are vastly more capable than the “idiot Light” and measure all amps into and out of your battery.

They are an easy self install and don’t cost an arm and a leg. The most popular is the Victron SmartShunt. It costs about $130 and is the most capable but others are available for as little as $40 or so.

This type of monitor shows you your true battery state of charge in a percentage so when you see 70% SOC you know for sure where you really stand.
 
I forgot to mention one negative with the trailer is the poor mattress! First night's sleep (if you can call it that) was not good, and based on reading other's negative reports, I brought two foam pads I've used on camping cots. Going forward, I'll do some research on what others have done for replacement a replacement mattress for the Murphy bed option.
 
If you plan on off-grid camping you really should consider adding a shunt-based battery monitor. They are vastly more capable than the “idiot Light” and measure all amps into and out of your battery.

They are an easy self install and don’t cost an arm and a leg. The most popular is the Victron SmartShunt. It costs about $130 and is the most capable but others are available for as little as $40 or so.

This type of monitor shows you your true battery state of charge in a percentage so when you see 70% SOC you know for sure where you really stand.

Thank you! I've read people make reference to shunt base monitors, but your more specific suggestions are greatly appreciated. Sounds exactly like what I need and want.
 
I forgot to mention one negative with the trailer is the poor mattress!

We did just one (miserable) night on our TB's twin/king mattresses.
I cut a couple of 1/2' plywood sheets to fit the 80x74 bed area to stiffen up the mattress support vs the very thin/flimsy ply they used and then installed a "RV King" mattress and some "Giza cotton" sheets from Amazon. Its all been real comfortable.

While searching I did come across some hinged Murphy options.
 
We did just one (miserable) night on our TB's twin/king mattresses.
I cut a couple of 1/2' plywood sheets to fit the 80x74 bed area to stiffen up the mattress support vs the very thin/flimsy ply they used and then installed a "RV King" mattress and some "Giza cotton" sheets from Amazon. Its all been real comfortable.

While searching I did come across some hinged Murphy options.

Thanks. I've found a couple ideas by searching this forum. I think I'll start another thread or else this mattress stuff will get lost in this inverter thread.
 
So if any MM inverter install experts are going to be in the Atlanta area, let me know... I'm about to buy a 2024 2100BH and would like to add a 1500w inverter, dealers want at least $800 or so for inverter and installation.

A case of beer/your-favorite-beverage is at stake :cool:
 
So if any MM inverter install experts are going to be in the Atlanta area, let me know... I'm about to buy a 2024 2100BH and would like to add a 1500w inverter, dealers want at least $800 or so for inverter and installation.

A case of beer/your-favorite-beverage is at stake :cool:

Can’t be there to help you, but I strongly advise you install a 2000w inverter. Doesn’t cost much more, but you get a lot more bang for the buck. 1500w may run up against your inverter limit if operating more than one ac appliance, and may not fire up the microwave. And you’ll ask yourself later, “Why didn’t I go ahead and spend the extra fifty bucks?” It also won’t be able to handle any surge loads. A quality 2000w inverter can also run your air conditioner for a short period if it equipped with an easy start, and you have sufficient battery output of at least 100 amps (200 amps better). You’ll need 2/0 cable to connect a 2000w inverter to your battery, and at least a 250 amp fuse near the battery. All that should be worth a cold brewski.
 
Nice info, I have 2024 2108 , But from what I see online the way to do LOOP Inverter prep is different. I am installing 3000 Renogy that has a transfer switch in it, ( comes in different sizes) On this Renogy there are 2 connections , you put one end of the loop to inline and other to out.. the hot one in inline ( test with multi meter) this way when on shore power everything works normal, then on battery it switches inverter to use. doing it her way stubs that one end of loop without power.. Not saying her way doesn't work but that loop goes somewhere, and has to stay connected .. (and always turn off converter when inverter on..)
 
IdahoHunter thanks for the write up! Nice job, what did you use for the black non-conductive spray on the hot connections on the tongue?
I would like to re-cover those after my tongue jack replacement!
Or better yet mount a waterproof box there to seal them from road spray.
Bill
 
IdahoHunter thanks for the write up! Nice job, what did you use for the black non-conductive spray on the hot connections on the tongue?
I would like to re-cover those after my tongue jack replacement!
Or better yet mount a waterproof box there to seal them from road spray.
Bill
You're very welcome!

The black is actually left over from the factory stuff. The protective spray I used is like one that you can spray battery terminals after they have been cleaned and put back together. It has a reddish tint to it.

A waterproof box for these thermal breakers would be better, but it would be quite the job getting all the wire penetrations into it. Plus, some wires may not be long enough when you do that.
 
So the box might be difficult, but if I cut out most of the bottom and use a flat gasket under it I could likely set it on top of the terminal block, then use rtv to seal around the wires, which would go thru mouse holes in the sides…
I have seen some clear stuff, and some red stuff that doesn’t quite harden for sealant. Trying to ID a good manufacturer for the sealant, saw some from 3M for $70 a spray can from and some from CRC…
Bill
 

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