Installing LiFe Batteries and Victron Charger in a 2015 Itasca Navion 24V

[Ken VS]

I just purchased a 2015 Itasca Navion 24V. I'd like to install my two 100ah LiFe Batteries. I also have the Victron charger. Feasable?

 

[bigbAZ]

I just purchased a 2015 Itasca Navion 24V. I'd like to install my two 100ah LiFe Batteries. I also have the Victron charger. Feasable?

You don't say which Victron charger you have. I have the Victron 12/15 Blue Smart charger and it charges my single 100ah Li battery fine although it takes some time. I also have an Orion 30 amp DC-DC charger and my on board converter charger also charges it to almost full. With 200 ah watch your alternator charging. You probably have the 220 amp alternator and MB says you can use 80 amps over and above the normal chassis loads. A DC-DC charger is not very hard to install and I would consider it just to protect your alternator, but meantime you can get by just making sure you charge them up before driving. My battery needs are minimal and I usually have it mostly charged before leaving camp and the DC-DC charger keeps up with the 3 way fridge while driving.
Do you have a shunt and monitor?

 

[Ken VS]

Thanks for the info. yes, I have the Victron Monitor BM712. And the Charger is "Blue Smart Charger" IP65.

 

[fanrgs]

Our 2020 24V has two 105A-h Li batteries that just dropped into the battery compartment under the stairs. Our Xantrex 2kw inverter-converter handles alternator power, solar power, shore power, and generator power without the need for any other modifications. It is located in the front bay beneath the kitchen. All I had to do was reprogram it with Li-specific parameters. Our Li batteries and 350w of rooftop solar + 100w of portable panels can run our 12v fridge for at least 6 days without hookups. For shorter periods, we can run the conv-micro, induction cooktop, and all the 12v needs just from the solar and batteries. Our propane gennie has only 20 run-hours in 5 years, all but 2 of which are from periodic exercise.

 

[Ken VS]

Thanks for that info.

 

[fanrgs]

Ken: Just an FYI, we now have a 12v rooftop TurboKool evaporative cooler IPO our burned-out factory Coleman-Mach heat pump. Installed it a couple of years ago because our only home cooling in the Denver area for the past 50 years has been a 6,500-cfm "swamp cooler". When we boondock, the TurboKool can run all day just off our solar and batteries, no hookup needed. It does use our fresh water quicker, but we seldom dry camp more than 2-3 days in one location, especially in the mountains in summer.

Since you are in Montrose in even lower humidity than we are, you might want to consider it if you do a lot of dry camping and boondocking in CO-UT-WY. We have also used it a few times in spring and fall when visiting our son in Las Vegas and snowbirding in AZ-NM south of I-10. Those places can be 90-100 degrees in October and April (not to mention our 80+ degrees in Denver this March). In fact, Phoenix was 90+ degrees on Presidents Day a few years ago when we were snowbirding in AZ!

 

[Ken VS]

Ken: Just an FYI, we now have a 12v rooftop TurboKool evaporative cooler IPO our burned-out factory Coleman-Mach heat pump. Installed it a couple of years ago because our only home cooling in the Denver area for the past 50 years has been a 6,500-cfm "swamp cooler". When we boondock, the TurboKool can run all day just off our solar and batteries, no hookup needed. It does use our fresh water quicker, but we seldom dry camp more than 2-3 days in one location, especially in the mountains in summer.

Since you are in Montrose in even lower humidity than we are, you might want to consider it if you do a lot of dry camping and boondocking in CO-UT-WY. We have also used it a few times in spring and fall when visiting our son in Las Vegas and snowbirding in AZ-NM south of I-10. Those places can be 90-100 degrees in October and April (not to mention our 80+ degrees in Denver this March). In fact, Phoenix was 90+ degrees on Presidents Day a few years ago when we were snowbirding in AZ!

Good to know.... Thanks!

 

[Ken VS]

You don't say which Victron charger you have. I have the Victron 12/15 Blue Smart charger and it charges my single 100ah Li battery fine although it takes some time. I also have an Orion 30 amp DC-DC charger and my on board converter charger also charges it to almost full. With 200 ah watch your alternator charging. You probably have the 220 amp alternator and MB says you can use 80 amps over and above the normal chassis loads. A DC-DC charger is not very hard to install and I would consider it just to protect your alternator, but meantime you can get by just making sure you charge them up before driving. My battery needs are minimal and I usually have it mostly charged before leaving camp and the DC-DC charger keeps up with the 3 way fridge while driving.
Do you have a shunt and monitor?

BigbAZ, thanks for your reply. I have installed the 2 100AH batteries with Victron Monitor. That was easy. Now I need to install the DC DC Charger. You state that it's "not very hard...." but where do I install and wire it?? I only see numerous diagrams and descriptions but no videos/photos on where I connect the wiring. Can you help?

 

[klook]

Our 2020 24V has two 105A-h Li batteries that just dropped into the battery compartment under the stairs. Our Xantrex 2kw inverter-converter handles alternator power, solar power, shore power, and generator power without the need for any other modifications. It is located in the front bay beneath the kitchen. All I had to do was reprogram it with Li-specific parameters. Our Li batteries and 350w of rooftop solar + 100w of portable panels can run our 12v fridge for at least 6 days without hookups. For shorter periods, we can run the conv-micro, induction cooktop, and all the 12v needs just from the solar and batteries. Our propane gennie has only 20 run-hours in 5 years, all but 2 of which are from periodic exercise.

Something didnt seem right about that statement so I looked up the Xantrex units. I actually have a 1000w setting as a leftover. The Xantrex inverter/charger does NOT charge your battery from the alternator. A dc to dc is still necessary if the battery bank is big enough.

 

[klook]

I went to the AUX start solenoid or Boost, whichever your switch says, and bypassed it with the wires from the dc-dc. I disconnected the AUX feed wire on the solenoid as I don't need it. I have other means to boost my chassis battery and I disconnect it with a negative post switch if I am going to be staying for awhile. A NOCO jump pack and long quality booster cables are backups.