I have a 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD “StoreMore” Flat Floor, and in May-2021 I traveled to my favorite “RV Day Spa” (in Rocky Point, MX) to have my slideout plastic triangles and pads replaced.
I call it an RV Day Spa at The Reef RV Park, in Puerto Penasco, MX, because I can get all sorts of work done to my RV – all in one place – and I can either watch, or help, and learn, or I can walk 2 blocks to a beach restaurant and eat lunch and drink margaritas while other competent, and honest people take care of my RV.
Note: This area has been engaged in welcoming RVers for over 30 years and there are all kinds of RV services you can get. And for more information you can go to this thread, which includes how I just installed and hid a 8,000 BTU portable AC in a living room cabinet, which is one of the best upgrades I think every RV should do if they have a 14" wide cabinet door they can utilize as a space to hide the air conditioner.
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums...rv-body-and-paint-work-who-knew-358003-3.html
=== HWH SLIDEOUT SERVICE ===
This thread is my attempt at explaining how Gabriel and Manual took the lead on this project; and service; and how I supervised, and learned more about my HWH slideout system; while they re-adjusted the HWH slideout hydraulic rams, and made other vertical and horizontal adjustments needed to line up my "paint lines" so the slide operates properly, and drops into the right height; and then retracts smoothly into its sowed position.
WHAT WERE MY COMPLAINTS?
* The slide was dropping too low. And inside that meant my wood trim was bottoming out on the floor with too much force. It also meant the side was putting too much pressure on my side wall. And it was making noises suggesting there was too much stress.
SOLUTIONS
A) Turns out the “Bearing Pad” got crushed. This is the white plastic pad under the ram you see cracked in the picture below. (Note: You want to replace the pad with the black bearing pad option that will withstand more weight vs. the white one.)
The plastic, outboard triangles were being “shredded” on one side and the slide-box was now not sliding parallel to the frame.
C) That long, horizontal, steel bar those metal wheels come to a rest on… was bent outward.
As a result of all these things, the paint lines matched up differently on the left side vs. the right side, but this has always been the case since I owned the RV for over 6 years now. So the straw that broke the camels back was the crushed bearing pad that just occurred.
Note: If this happens to you then I would recommend you don't put your slide all the way out, for as long as it takes, until you can make the following repairs.
PREFACE
IMO, the only way to do this job right, on a Diesel Chassis (not gas) is to remove the entire RAM assembly and leave the inner hydraulic cylinder as-is. This process will take 2 people a total of 2 days to complete the first time around, and maybe it will only take one day the next time around.
...Also, we could not follow the same methods as outlined in Kevin C. Winnebago Adventurer (gas chassis) videos, because I think out diesel chassis have different gussets and frame welds that don’t allow us to pry the ram enclosure open, in order to slip the plastic triangles into place.
So while the HWH slide mechanism and parts are the same on both diesel and gas chassis, it appears to me the ways the ram enclosure is mounted to the frame are different.
And given how tight the RAM slide works, back-and-forth, and inside the outer enclosure, again you would not be able to replace the front and rear plastic parts and shims without removing the entire RAM assembly!
Also, with the entire RAM out of the coach, we cleaned it, and used 800 grit sand paper, and mineral spirits, to polish the ram. And now my “big box” slides like a well made glove fits on a hand. TSo, to say the least, I'm very pleased with the services and received from Gabriel and Manual. And because I was supervising I know it gone done right and complete.
PARTS
* HWH Flat Floor Slideout Kit: Plastic Triangles and shims, plus:
Part# RAP91028 (Order 2 kits.)
* Crushed Bearing Pad Part# RAP91975 (Order 2 kits.)
(Get the black pads if possible. They are stronger.)
SERVICE
You need 2 bottle jacks, some 2x4’s and lots of light and standard tools. The only odd ball tools include a large Allen wrench and 1-3/8" socket... and a "putter" that saved the day for me, and I will tell you more about later.
All you do are these things:
* Make sure you start with a level floor; and if you have an RV with manual air-leveling, I would lift the RV up high so you have more room to crawl under the RV.
* If you don’t have manual air-leveling, then you will want to use your jacks and perhaps use a few 12x12x2" shims under the jack pads so the jacks lift the coach up as high as possible.
* Extend the slide out almost all the way out. You don’t want the steel rollers to extend beyond the RV floor. I.e., the floor should not drop down very much if at all such that the steel rollers are supporting the box on one side.
* Then on the other side of the box, you want to add some 2x4 supports under the slidout; and then you just jack-up the box until the weight is off the rams.
* Undo the “All Thread Rod.” Note: The left rod has a different way of attaching itself vs. the right rod.
* Unbolt the end cap steel plate on the left ram and then the right.
* Use a 1-3/8” socket to undo the large, locking nut on the end of each ram, and then use an Allen wrench to release the ram.
* Now you want to disassemble the hardware and pins that holding the large horizontal, steel bar in place. And then you just lay it down, out of the way, by placing it on your cargo bin tops.
* If you need to disassemble the hardware supports for your cargo bins, and I'm not sure you do, cuz I can't remember that part, you will need to support your cargo bins with a long 2x4 and then a 3rd bottle jack or blocks.
* Now you need to figure out how to remove the rams from the enclosure.
Tips: You can now you extend the rams in or out as needed to remove the inner ram from the external enclosure. There is also an access hole in the side of the enclosure you can work with to release the ram.
* Gabriel then separated the inside ram and removed it. However, I did not really see how he did it.
* Gabriel then unbolted the external enclosure from the frame… AND LEFT THE HWH hydraulic slide cylinders inside the RV. However, I don’t think you need to go this far.
* Hopefully, you can just remove the ram, and then you can replace all the HWH plastic parts you need, with the enclosure still bolted to the frame. IDK for sure, but you should try first.
* If you have to remove the enclosure from the frame, you DO NOT REMOVE the hydraulic cylinder located inside the ram!!!
Notes: Yes, it is easier to replace the plastic parts with the enclosure removed from the frame, but removing the enclosure is a more involved step that may not be necessary. So you will have to decide what you can and cannot get away with.
Moreover, the inside ram attaches to the hydraulic cylinder rod with a U-type hook. And to work with the hydraulic cylinder you need to remove the metal cover plates accessed in the passenger side compartments.
One ram cover plate will be over your holding tanks, in the rear, and just behind your front tires, in the compartment up front, you will find the other black cover plate for the forward most ram.
These covers will have butyl tape holding them together, and I assume this is so moisture does not get inside. So don’t be surprised if you have to cut it before you pry the cover away; and then you will see the end of the hydraulic cylinder, with the "throw" adjustment nut on the end.
Note: We almost encountered a road block re-attaching the ram U-Hook to the hydraulic cylinder rod. Then I gave Carlos my trusty “putter” I keep by the front door for my safety, and he used the putter to work the U-Hook back in place. (Hey it worked! …And that putter may be the best tool for the job. So don't forget this step or you may be left hung out to dry if you can reattach your ram U-Hook to the hydraulic rod end.)
* Your main objectives are to replace the outer plastic triangles and the black bearing pads. And where applicable, you will want to use the same number of shims as you removed. However, I think if you are going to this much trouble, you should just replace all the plastic parts. …And, if you are hiring a mechanic to do this job, make sure he gives you back all your HWH plastic and metal parts so you know he did not cut any corners!
* Also, if you have any bent HWH support pieces, you will need to have all these metal parts ordered in advance, because you don’t what to have to put your job “on hold” for 2 weeks while you wait for parts to arrive..
Note: The inner triangles don’t get that much wear; and neither do the side plastic pieces. And there is a ~1”x1”x8” rectangular plastic block you do not need to replace at all. However, when you replace everything new your ram will slide with very, very little play; and the “fit” will be much tighter.
* All the plastic triangle will snap in place and some use a hold down screw.
ADJUSTMENT COMMENTS
* You hope your new plastic triangle will elevate the slide box back into its “natural” position, but this will probably not be the case.
* When you take everything apart it will be come more clear on how and where you need to adjust your slide. What is not intuitive is how the slide dips, and then how the metal rollers come to rest on the long, horizontal, steel bar. So what you do is this: Very slowly… bump the slide switch to extend the slide so you can re-position the horizontal bar; and then bolt it into place; such that when you have another 1/8" to 1/4" more to extend, your metal rollers will rest fulling on that long, steel bar.
Note: If you don’t do this step right, when your slide fully extends, you could end up bending your new parts.
FINE TUNING ADJUSTMENTS
* The lateral movement is done first; and your enclosure can be slid front or back if necessary, but it's probably not necessary, unless your trim moldings on the side are binging with the trim moldings on the slideout.
* The vertical movement is largely done by adjusting Allan wrench and the 1-3/8” locking nut.
* Normally, the ram “throw” will not need adjusting, but sometimes the right or left ram will want to advance more than the other. This will appear as if you need to adjust the slide, when in fact you may just need to equalize the system.
* To equalize the hydraulic left and right rams, you do this by extending and fully retracting the slides completely… and then holding down the slide button for 5 seconds more. ...Then you repeat this 3 more times; and if you still don’t have a square-and-true box movement, with respect to the left and right side; then you may choose to adjust the hydraulic cylinder rod adjusting bolt – accessing it on the passenger side of the RV.
* There is also a ram stop found inside the hydraulic cylinder area, but again you probably will not need to adjust this if you rubber seals are not compressed too tight.
* Keep this in mind: What you do to adjustments on the left will affect the box on the right; and visa versa. And what you do to elevate the box will affect how your wood trim touches the carpet inside when the slide is extended and the pressure your “carpet shoe” puts on the floor.
Note: It seems to me, that if you installed vinyl flooring; and do NOT change your carpet shoe, then you should use always use a plastic guide to protect the roller from damaging your floor behind the driver’s seat.
In addition, you may, repeat may, find if you lower the outdoor box height by turning the big Allan Wrench, so the box tips down just a tad, this will take some pressure off the floor when it sides in and out.
However, you also need to know the carpet shoe is made to drag on the floor. In fact, they say your HWH hydraulics like it better when there is some drag on the floor -- so the synchronization between the left and right ram (throw) works best.
However, we also don’t the slideout roller or metal parts to scratch our new vinyl floor! So, there are some tradeoffs here if you don't replace the glide shoe with the one made for a vinyl floor. Note: I think Winnebago sells these vinyl-shoes in the ~$125 range plus shipping, but I also get the impression these new glide shoes are no guarantee your floor will not get scratched, do I would use a plastic shim you an buy on Amazon if I ever replace my carpet floor with vinyl.
CONCLUSIONS
Preferably, you paint lines will line up again when you are done, but if you ask me, I think it’s more important you don’t overstress your system or your RV walls. So, if there are any doubts, with regards to how well your adjustments turn out, then just don’t put your slide OUT all the way for the next few trips; and when you return from your trip, then you can go about making fine tuning adjustments after your hydraulics balance themselves out.
HOW TO CHEAT & REDUCE SERVICE COSTS
* Just replace your outdoor plastic triangles and your black bearing pads and call it quits. This is probably what you get for $900 plus $200 in parts at a shop, assuming you don’t have any bent hardware. Else, the complete job will run you more like $2,100 + $400 in parts if they do a complete overhaul of plastic parts.
* Based on the 10 shops I called... before I decided to supervise this project myself in Mexico, and pay Gabriel and Manual to do the heavy work... most shops don’t know what they are getting into, not that they couldn't figure it out, but they clearly were not very sure on how this service should be done.
I would, however, take my RV to the 3T's shop in Lake Havasu, AZ and there was a shop in north of El Paso called Double T RV Service in NM I would go to. And Affordable RV Service and Repair does HWH Service in Las Vegas.)
* So go with a referral you can trust. And IMO you should not attempt this repair without having a helper. Never mind how young you need to be (under 50) to work under your RV ...up and down, up and down,etc.
I call it an RV Day Spa at The Reef RV Park, in Puerto Penasco, MX, because I can get all sorts of work done to my RV – all in one place – and I can either watch, or help, and learn, or I can walk 2 blocks to a beach restaurant and eat lunch and drink margaritas while other competent, and honest people take care of my RV.
Note: This area has been engaged in welcoming RVers for over 30 years and there are all kinds of RV services you can get. And for more information you can go to this thread, which includes how I just installed and hid a 8,000 BTU portable AC in a living room cabinet, which is one of the best upgrades I think every RV should do if they have a 14" wide cabinet door they can utilize as a space to hide the air conditioner.
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums...rv-body-and-paint-work-who-knew-358003-3.html
=== HWH SLIDEOUT SERVICE ===
This thread is my attempt at explaining how Gabriel and Manual took the lead on this project; and service; and how I supervised, and learned more about my HWH slideout system; while they re-adjusted the HWH slideout hydraulic rams, and made other vertical and horizontal adjustments needed to line up my "paint lines" so the slide operates properly, and drops into the right height; and then retracts smoothly into its sowed position.
WHAT WERE MY COMPLAINTS?
* The slide was dropping too low. And inside that meant my wood trim was bottoming out on the floor with too much force. It also meant the side was putting too much pressure on my side wall. And it was making noises suggesting there was too much stress.
SOLUTIONS
A) Turns out the “Bearing Pad” got crushed. This is the white plastic pad under the ram you see cracked in the picture below. (Note: You want to replace the pad with the black bearing pad option that will withstand more weight vs. the white one.)
The plastic, outboard triangles were being “shredded” on one side and the slide-box was now not sliding parallel to the frame. C) That long, horizontal, steel bar those metal wheels come to a rest on… was bent outward.
As a result of all these things, the paint lines matched up differently on the left side vs. the right side, but this has always been the case since I owned the RV for over 6 years now. So the straw that broke the camels back was the crushed bearing pad that just occurred.
Note: If this happens to you then I would recommend you don't put your slide all the way out, for as long as it takes, until you can make the following repairs.
PREFACE
IMO, the only way to do this job right, on a Diesel Chassis (not gas) is to remove the entire RAM assembly and leave the inner hydraulic cylinder as-is. This process will take 2 people a total of 2 days to complete the first time around, and maybe it will only take one day the next time around.
...Also, we could not follow the same methods as outlined in Kevin C. Winnebago Adventurer (gas chassis) videos, because I think out diesel chassis have different gussets and frame welds that don’t allow us to pry the ram enclosure open, in order to slip the plastic triangles into place.
So while the HWH slide mechanism and parts are the same on both diesel and gas chassis, it appears to me the ways the ram enclosure is mounted to the frame are different.
And given how tight the RAM slide works, back-and-forth, and inside the outer enclosure, again you would not be able to replace the front and rear plastic parts and shims without removing the entire RAM assembly!
Also, with the entire RAM out of the coach, we cleaned it, and used 800 grit sand paper, and mineral spirits, to polish the ram. And now my “big box” slides like a well made glove fits on a hand. TSo, to say the least, I'm very pleased with the services and received from Gabriel and Manual. And because I was supervising I know it gone done right and complete.
PARTS
* HWH Flat Floor Slideout Kit: Plastic Triangles and shims, plus:
Part# RAP91028 (Order 2 kits.)
* Crushed Bearing Pad Part# RAP91975 (Order 2 kits.)
(Get the black pads if possible. They are stronger.)
SERVICE
You need 2 bottle jacks, some 2x4’s and lots of light and standard tools. The only odd ball tools include a large Allen wrench and 1-3/8" socket... and a "putter" that saved the day for me, and I will tell you more about later.
All you do are these things:
* Make sure you start with a level floor; and if you have an RV with manual air-leveling, I would lift the RV up high so you have more room to crawl under the RV.
* If you don’t have manual air-leveling, then you will want to use your jacks and perhaps use a few 12x12x2" shims under the jack pads so the jacks lift the coach up as high as possible.
* Extend the slide out almost all the way out. You don’t want the steel rollers to extend beyond the RV floor. I.e., the floor should not drop down very much if at all such that the steel rollers are supporting the box on one side.
* Then on the other side of the box, you want to add some 2x4 supports under the slidout; and then you just jack-up the box until the weight is off the rams.
* Undo the “All Thread Rod.” Note: The left rod has a different way of attaching itself vs. the right rod.
* Unbolt the end cap steel plate on the left ram and then the right.
* Use a 1-3/8” socket to undo the large, locking nut on the end of each ram, and then use an Allen wrench to release the ram.
* Now you want to disassemble the hardware and pins that holding the large horizontal, steel bar in place. And then you just lay it down, out of the way, by placing it on your cargo bin tops.
* If you need to disassemble the hardware supports for your cargo bins, and I'm not sure you do, cuz I can't remember that part, you will need to support your cargo bins with a long 2x4 and then a 3rd bottle jack or blocks.
* Now you need to figure out how to remove the rams from the enclosure.
Tips: You can now you extend the rams in or out as needed to remove the inner ram from the external enclosure. There is also an access hole in the side of the enclosure you can work with to release the ram.
* Gabriel then separated the inside ram and removed it. However, I did not really see how he did it.
* Gabriel then unbolted the external enclosure from the frame… AND LEFT THE HWH hydraulic slide cylinders inside the RV. However, I don’t think you need to go this far.
* Hopefully, you can just remove the ram, and then you can replace all the HWH plastic parts you need, with the enclosure still bolted to the frame. IDK for sure, but you should try first.
* If you have to remove the enclosure from the frame, you DO NOT REMOVE the hydraulic cylinder located inside the ram!!!
Notes: Yes, it is easier to replace the plastic parts with the enclosure removed from the frame, but removing the enclosure is a more involved step that may not be necessary. So you will have to decide what you can and cannot get away with.
Moreover, the inside ram attaches to the hydraulic cylinder rod with a U-type hook. And to work with the hydraulic cylinder you need to remove the metal cover plates accessed in the passenger side compartments.
One ram cover plate will be over your holding tanks, in the rear, and just behind your front tires, in the compartment up front, you will find the other black cover plate for the forward most ram.
These covers will have butyl tape holding them together, and I assume this is so moisture does not get inside. So don’t be surprised if you have to cut it before you pry the cover away; and then you will see the end of the hydraulic cylinder, with the "throw" adjustment nut on the end.
Note: We almost encountered a road block re-attaching the ram U-Hook to the hydraulic cylinder rod. Then I gave Carlos my trusty “putter” I keep by the front door for my safety, and he used the putter to work the U-Hook back in place. (Hey it worked! …And that putter may be the best tool for the job. So don't forget this step or you may be left hung out to dry if you can reattach your ram U-Hook to the hydraulic rod end.)
* Your main objectives are to replace the outer plastic triangles and the black bearing pads. And where applicable, you will want to use the same number of shims as you removed. However, I think if you are going to this much trouble, you should just replace all the plastic parts. …And, if you are hiring a mechanic to do this job, make sure he gives you back all your HWH plastic and metal parts so you know he did not cut any corners!
* Also, if you have any bent HWH support pieces, you will need to have all these metal parts ordered in advance, because you don’t what to have to put your job “on hold” for 2 weeks while you wait for parts to arrive..
Note: The inner triangles don’t get that much wear; and neither do the side plastic pieces. And there is a ~1”x1”x8” rectangular plastic block you do not need to replace at all. However, when you replace everything new your ram will slide with very, very little play; and the “fit” will be much tighter.
* All the plastic triangle will snap in place and some use a hold down screw.
ADJUSTMENT COMMENTS
* You hope your new plastic triangle will elevate the slide box back into its “natural” position, but this will probably not be the case.
* When you take everything apart it will be come more clear on how and where you need to adjust your slide. What is not intuitive is how the slide dips, and then how the metal rollers come to rest on the long, horizontal, steel bar. So what you do is this: Very slowly… bump the slide switch to extend the slide so you can re-position the horizontal bar; and then bolt it into place; such that when you have another 1/8" to 1/4" more to extend, your metal rollers will rest fulling on that long, steel bar.
Note: If you don’t do this step right, when your slide fully extends, you could end up bending your new parts.
FINE TUNING ADJUSTMENTS
* The lateral movement is done first; and your enclosure can be slid front or back if necessary, but it's probably not necessary, unless your trim moldings on the side are binging with the trim moldings on the slideout.
* The vertical movement is largely done by adjusting Allan wrench and the 1-3/8” locking nut.
* Normally, the ram “throw” will not need adjusting, but sometimes the right or left ram will want to advance more than the other. This will appear as if you need to adjust the slide, when in fact you may just need to equalize the system.
* To equalize the hydraulic left and right rams, you do this by extending and fully retracting the slides completely… and then holding down the slide button for 5 seconds more. ...Then you repeat this 3 more times; and if you still don’t have a square-and-true box movement, with respect to the left and right side; then you may choose to adjust the hydraulic cylinder rod adjusting bolt – accessing it on the passenger side of the RV.
* There is also a ram stop found inside the hydraulic cylinder area, but again you probably will not need to adjust this if you rubber seals are not compressed too tight.
* Keep this in mind: What you do to adjustments on the left will affect the box on the right; and visa versa. And what you do to elevate the box will affect how your wood trim touches the carpet inside when the slide is extended and the pressure your “carpet shoe” puts on the floor.
Note: It seems to me, that if you installed vinyl flooring; and do NOT change your carpet shoe, then you should use always use a plastic guide to protect the roller from damaging your floor behind the driver’s seat.
In addition, you may, repeat may, find if you lower the outdoor box height by turning the big Allan Wrench, so the box tips down just a tad, this will take some pressure off the floor when it sides in and out.
However, you also need to know the carpet shoe is made to drag on the floor. In fact, they say your HWH hydraulics like it better when there is some drag on the floor -- so the synchronization between the left and right ram (throw) works best.
However, we also don’t the slideout roller or metal parts to scratch our new vinyl floor! So, there are some tradeoffs here if you don't replace the glide shoe with the one made for a vinyl floor. Note: I think Winnebago sells these vinyl-shoes in the ~$125 range plus shipping, but I also get the impression these new glide shoes are no guarantee your floor will not get scratched, do I would use a plastic shim you an buy on Amazon if I ever replace my carpet floor with vinyl.
CONCLUSIONS
Preferably, you paint lines will line up again when you are done, but if you ask me, I think it’s more important you don’t overstress your system or your RV walls. So, if there are any doubts, with regards to how well your adjustments turn out, then just don’t put your slide OUT all the way for the next few trips; and when you return from your trip, then you can go about making fine tuning adjustments after your hydraulics balance themselves out.
HOW TO CHEAT & REDUCE SERVICE COSTS
* Just replace your outdoor plastic triangles and your black bearing pads and call it quits. This is probably what you get for $900 plus $200 in parts at a shop, assuming you don’t have any bent hardware. Else, the complete job will run you more like $2,100 + $400 in parts if they do a complete overhaul of plastic parts.
* Based on the 10 shops I called... before I decided to supervise this project myself in Mexico, and pay Gabriel and Manual to do the heavy work... most shops don’t know what they are getting into, not that they couldn't figure it out, but they clearly were not very sure on how this service should be done.
I would, however, take my RV to the 3T's shop in Lake Havasu, AZ and there was a shop in north of El Paso called Double T RV Service in NM I would go to. And Affordable RV Service and Repair does HWH Service in Las Vegas.)
* So go with a referral you can trust. And IMO you should not attempt this repair without having a helper. Never mind how young you need to be (under 50) to work under your RV ...up and down, up and down,etc.
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