Hot Water Heater - 2004 Adventurer

Viper1956

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Aug 25, 2024
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Not sure if my 2004 Adventurer hot water heater has a bad rod or other problem. It is electric and propane but cannot get even warm waster with both running for almost an hour. The winterize bypass does not seem to be on. Was thinking of on demand, but matching the door size seems ominous, unless there is a kit where I can vent with the current door.
 
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I am going to try and fill in some areas of concern so other folks may be able to help.

Lets start with propane, do you have a flame at all? For the electric part you most likely will need a meter to make sure you have power to the heating element.

The winterize bypass does not seem to be on. What do you mean by that? That will go along with are you sure you have water in the heater. If you turned the bypass to allow water to flow to the water heater, did you open a faucet to allow the air in the water heater to escape.

If you have a water heater thats full of water, propane thats on and heating there should be no reason for only warm water.

Hopefully others will come on with more knowledge to help you out.
 
Yes, the propane tank is full, I can hear the igniter ignite, and I can hear it burning. I read somewhere to check. The winterized bypass is a potential problem. I know it had water in it when I was running it because I drained it before winter and quite a bit came out. Just for clarification this is my first year of ownership on this 2004 unit.
 
When we are new, we need to be extra careful!
No big thing and we were all new at some point and most of us have never gotten it all figured, so we can all relate to most problems. Been there done that!

One way to be careful is to not assume too much and work a problem in the safe way to avoid causing any more trouble than we have!

On water heaters, it is not good to heat them if we are not certain there is water in them as that can burn out the element, etc.

My process would be to confirm with certainty that water flow in is good, then confirm the fire is working as the less complex method to find if the controls like the thermostat are good, next I would want to make sure that hot water is coming out to the faucets and last test the electrical heating. The electrical heating is harder to see, hear or feel, so I leave it to last!
I might guess getting the valves right for water to move in, through, and out of the heater all the way to faucets, may be the main problem when we are new at getting all of them set.
So how can we help best? Do you have the owners manual to find the various valves and get them set? Or do you need some pointers to help find where they hid them?
Those valves can get changed over the years and not look just the way we expect!

You mention hearing it light but I might back off on that until getting the water to flow correctly as overheating the element is a real hazard!

There are check valves on both incoming and outgoing water and they do need to be checked for flow.
Are you where you have city water pressure?
I suggest going this way, if you have pressure water and a place to dump any that you run!

I would turn off the heating to avoid pain or damage if the water is not going where we want it. Then turn off the pressure to the hose and open a faucet to let the pressure off.
Once pressure is off and heat is down to avoid burns, find the temperature and pressure relief valve on the water heater tank. Normally pulling the lever up is what opens the valve.
A helper is nice for this part to avoid too much water running down the RV side, etc.
With somebody watching the valve, turn the pressure back on somewhat slowly and verify water comes out the open valve as the tank fills. Water getting in the tank and coming out is good, so close the pressure valve! That verifies the incoming check valve is good and the bypass valve is set to let water in.
But if no water comes out the open valve, check the bypass valve setting as it can be a bit weird when we first look at them. They can also get changed over the years and may not match what the picture in the book shows. Sometimes just try changing the valve to the other settings gets water flow out of the tank, so go with the one that works!
While there, make sure the valve that lets you suck antifreeze into the system is set to normal flow!

Go to a few of the faucets and try to get water on the hot side of things. At this point it should not be hot but just verify flow. Note any faucets that seem to be extreme low flow. Maybe some are stopped up with minerals but that is a later issue!
Check you have water coming in, going through the tank and out to the hot side of faucets!
Got that? Light the fire on the heater and let it warm enough to feel it as heated water rather than just cool water. You want to know the heated water is what you are feeling, not just water that might be bypassing the heater!
If you get that far, you know the heater parts like check valves, etc. are all okay and you can let it warm fully and make sure it shuts down!

Water heating okay? So move to questions about any faucets that are not giving the right answers as they do have a habit of getting stopped up while stored.
A hint on this will be easy to spot if you have a single spout and both hot and cold seem bad! Check if there is an aerator on the spout that might unscrew to clear or replace!

A good soak in vinegar may soften the minerals to clear them. But water that sets for a few weeks/months is harder than what we have at home where we run water at least every few days!

Good luck on the search and know that many of us have been there before so just part of the trek! :thumb:
 
Water heater

Thanks to everyone that has replied so far, I'm digesting all of the recommendations. Appreciate you taking the time to help a newbie.
 
Your Adventurer has an Atwood water heater, so there is no anode rod in it.

There is one possible easy cause for this issue. Go to your outside shower control in the wet bay. Turn both the hot and cold water knobs fully off. If they are open at all it will mix hot and cold water in your system. They can be opened and the water flow turned off at the shower head and cause this issue.

I’m not saying this is your problem, only that it’s a known thing that can cause your result. A faulty check valve on the back of the water heater is also a common cause of this issue. It’s a low cost fix but is somewhat difficult to get to from under the RV.

Also, you will find it very difficult to find a suitable replacement for that water heater. The installation in an Adventurer is fairly unique. You will have a difficult time even finding a replacement of the same exact water heater. Lippert bought Atwood and discontinued all of their heater models. I hear that they are pretty much unreplaceable. You pretty much have to have them completely rebuilt.
 
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Thanks

The outside shower problem I found out another link, but I appreciate you including that. Not good news on the water heater replacement to a potential tankless. Finding all of the Achilles heels on the Winnebago adventure as I go along. I normally try to do a lot of research before a purchase, but obviously missed a lot of things like the windshields that leak, and now the water heater. Hopefully it's just the outside shower Spicket.
 
On the rod point? I had assumed you were speaking of the electrical heating as a rod, not the anode rod itself!
Two different items and we often get into calling things by common names rather than the "real" name!
Both have somewhat the same "rod" shape but one has no wires and does very little that we can see while the other has wires and gets hot!
If we have an anode rod, it is intended to wear but the heating element is one we would like to keep forever but can fail sooner than planned!
That can happen if we run them when dry with no water to cool them or make them turn off!
 
From reading several RVing forums, tankless water heaters in a RV do not perform well. I recommend repairing your original.
Locate the make and model of your water heater, then download a free pdf of your service manual from: https://myrvworks.com/manuals/
BTW, all your appliance manuals may be downloaded from that website.
 
Likely not a cause of your problem, but while you are working on the water heater, you should give it a really good flushing. Since you just bought it, you probably have no idea how long it has been sitting and not being cleaned. You will be surprised by all of the gunk that will come out.
Plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it.
 
If you go to the Owners section at winnebago.com you can download the Operators manual, electrical and plumbing diagrams for your coach.


If the propane is working then the water should be getting hot.


Does the pump cycle off when you turn the hot water faucet off? If not then your valve in the water bay may be in the water tank fill position.


If your winterizing valve is good and in the wrong position you should not be getting any water leaving the the tank.


Is the force of the water coming out of the faucet the same for the hot as the cold? If not I would suspect the check valve attached to the hot water outlet on the back of the tank is bad. These are known to fail. The valve inside is usually plastic, if they break they will be pushed outward by the water and become a blockage to the water flow.
 
On my previous '03 Adventurer I was able to replace the check valves without removing the tank. Tight but doable.
I removed the water pump from the white board. I then removed clamps holding the pipes to the white board and slowly moved them to the left. The removed the light and cut the wires, reconnecting with spade connectors when reinstalling. Remove the board by removing the bracket screws at the back bottom of the board, and opening the heater door there are several screws that attach the board.

Remove the board and you should be able to reach behind to where the pipes attach to the check valves. I recommend replacing the cone washer,
 
I have a 2005 Adventurer 38R. I believe I have the same water heater as you. The key work is believe. There is lots of good information in the thread here. I am attaching the Atwood water heater service manual from my unit. I have a 10 gallon tank and have gas and electric heat. I will also attach the plumbing schematics for my unit. You have a 2004 so I think they are very close to the same. I have made it my mission to find all of the manuals that I could for my unit. I also have the Owners manual for your 2004 Adventurer if you would like it. Just let me know.

I currently have issues with my water heater not working on gas. We mostly camp were we have electric so I have not made it a propriety to get it fixed but this is the year to fix that.

I hope what I have included here for you will help. Just me know if you need any other manuals. The 2004 and 2005 are almost exact in nature.
 

Attachments

  • Atwood-Water-Heater-Service-Manual.pdf
    1 MB · Views: 142
  • 05_g38r_plumb.pdf
    3.2 MB · Views: 18
One of the tricks to keep an RV on the road is knowing where to go to get good info and Winn. does a pretty good job, but we have to know where to look!
Winnebago home site as a starter:
Look under the owners tab for links to lots more but you can get the owners manuals here!
Plumbing help can come in two different places, this is the overall parts drawings and help locate lots of stuff besides plumbing!
Plumbing specific info here:
But then wiring info is often a big help:
A hint on the electrical drawings is how Winn. does their drawings. If you need info on the physical location or that sort of info, look to the "installation" drawings. But if you are needing something more specific like wiring schematics and may need to look at wire by wire info. For that look to those labeled "diagram" more than install drawings.

It can be a trek but maybe some info to get you started in the right direction?
Enjoy the trek!
 

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