Eagle5
Senior Member
Site Team
It never occurred to me to flip-over the right-hand closet door on a Minnie Winnie 22M until I read Bill's (vanovafan) original post on the subject. I flipped mine over today, and I love it! Because the door is symmetrical both vertically & horizontally, there is no problem with doing the change. Thank you Bill for this great idea.
Here is the original door configuration with the Slide-out deployed.
Here is the modified door configuration.
Here is the modified right-hand door with the slide-out retracted and the door open. Closet access is now possible!
The notes that I took doing this job are below.
With the Slide-out deployed, remove the two screws of the Strain Relief.
Note that the catches are about 7/8" inboard of the edge of the door. This means that the final installed door (in the closed position) will cover the six holes left by the original hinge placement.
The catches need about 1/8" clearance, as can be seen here. We will use this clearance measurement for the placement of the hinges in our next step.
Removed the six screws holding the hinges of the right-hand door to the door jamb (the hinges themselves stay attached to the door). Next, lay a patch of Painter's tape on the left-hand door jamb near where the upper and lower hinges will be. Position the door in the flipped orientation, and slide the door to the right, so the catches are laying against the right door jamb. With the right-hand door at the matching level of the left-hand door, mark only the top hole of the top hinge, being sure the hinge is flush against the wood. Place the door down, and measure to the left of this hole by 1/8". This is where you will drill a small & shallow pilot hole. Mount the door with only this one screw at the top hinge hole, and then mark the bottom hole of the bottom hinge, again with the lower catch against the right-hand jamb. Remove the single screw holding the door at the top hinge, and again, place the door aside. Measure inboard by 1/8" on this bottom mark, and drill your second pilot hole there. Remove the painter's tape, and mount the door with the top-most screw, and the bottom-most screw. Pilot-drill and add the other four screws.
To position the two roller catches, place small strips of Painter's tape on the approximate right-hand door jamb location. Mark the waterline of the catch, and center your roller at that level, with the two screws going into the wood in the center of the closet jamb. The roller should be set to flush with the outside surface of the jamb.
Re-install the strain relief so that the right-hand door cannot impact the left-hand door handle.
Using a knife blade, shave-down the mushrooming of the old holes. With wood putty, fill-in the old holes.
Here is the original door configuration with the Slide-out deployed.
Here is the modified door configuration.
Here is the modified right-hand door with the slide-out retracted and the door open. Closet access is now possible!
The notes that I took doing this job are below.
With the Slide-out deployed, remove the two screws of the Strain Relief.
Note that the catches are about 7/8" inboard of the edge of the door. This means that the final installed door (in the closed position) will cover the six holes left by the original hinge placement.
The catches need about 1/8" clearance, as can be seen here. We will use this clearance measurement for the placement of the hinges in our next step.
Removed the six screws holding the hinges of the right-hand door to the door jamb (the hinges themselves stay attached to the door). Next, lay a patch of Painter's tape on the left-hand door jamb near where the upper and lower hinges will be. Position the door in the flipped orientation, and slide the door to the right, so the catches are laying against the right door jamb. With the right-hand door at the matching level of the left-hand door, mark only the top hole of the top hinge, being sure the hinge is flush against the wood. Place the door down, and measure to the left of this hole by 1/8". This is where you will drill a small & shallow pilot hole. Mount the door with only this one screw at the top hinge hole, and then mark the bottom hole of the bottom hinge, again with the lower catch against the right-hand jamb. Remove the single screw holding the door at the top hinge, and again, place the door aside. Measure inboard by 1/8" on this bottom mark, and drill your second pilot hole there. Remove the painter's tape, and mount the door with the top-most screw, and the bottom-most screw. Pilot-drill and add the other four screws.
To position the two roller catches, place small strips of Painter's tape on the approximate right-hand door jamb location. Mark the waterline of the catch, and center your roller at that level, with the two screws going into the wood in the center of the closet jamb. The roller should be set to flush with the outside surface of the jamb.
Re-install the strain relief so that the right-hand door cannot impact the left-hand door handle.
Using a knife blade, shave-down the mushrooming of the old holes. With wood putty, fill-in the old holes.
For another reason altogether I ordered (and returned) new hinges off AMZ one time, wanting to have that same right closet door (with my slide out) extend fully to the right so I could put a 'half length' mirror on the front of the door and be able to stand back to get a fuller view than the bathroom mirror gives. There's no other area in the 22M where a mirror can be mounted to look at from a distance for vanity purposes haha I didn't get the proper hinge and thankfully let go of that one easily. Yet this is a wonderful modification to avoid that squeeze-in to open that right door!. THANKS Eagle5 and Bill!
