Good News! New "Amp-L-Start-Like" Product Available

creativepart

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Called "house2start" the product looks similar and seems to be a similar if not a clone of the old Amp-L-Start product:

www.house2start.com

For background info... these products take power from the House batteries when they are nearly full and shares it with the Chassis battery if it needs some trickle charging. It's a simple hook up and does a great job. Amp-L-Start was a longtime product for this purpose but the developer/business owner died and the product was discontinued after that sudden event.
 
Called "house2start" the product looks similar and seems to be a similar if not a clone of the old Amp-L-Start product:

www.house2start.com

For background info... these products take power from the House batteries when they are nearly full and shares it with the Chassis battery if it needs some trickle charging. It's a simple hook up and does a great job. Amp-L-Start was a longtime product for this purpose but the developer/business owner died and the product was discontinued after that sudden event.
Awesome thank you.
 
Good to know, thanks. My 2008 Trik-L-Start is still working but glad there's a replacement it needed.
 
A point to consider may be how much value to put into this item?
When finally getting around to looking inside my Trik-L unit, I was seriously thinking I had been had for the money I spent. Now I see the new unit is priced at almost double the earlier version!
Just very much a small box with a couple very cheap electronic parts inside. Normal college kid parts to solder together when we get down to what it does. If you are not interested in having an LED alert you to having it connected, it can be even less involved.
I do not want to start a business and will not suggest, design, nor build one but if you are inclined to do a bit of thought and solder work and put this into a small plastic box, it can save you some money to find out what it involves to sneak a bit of current from one battery source to another and regulate it!
Think of an electronic "gate" that will only open one way when the voltage at point
"A" is higher than point "B" by a specific amount and close when those two voltages near even!

I found the real problem with this as a business venture is the legal side of being responsible on a number of things.
 
My 2012 Itasca 37F has a switch on the dash that controls a solenoid which temporarily jumps the chassis battery with the coach battery. Seems to make those devices unnecessary
 
A point to consider may be how much value to put into this item?
When finally getting around to looking inside my Trik-L unit, I was seriously thinking I had been had for the money I spent. Now I see the new unit is priced at almost double the earlier version!
Just very much a small box with a couple very cheap electronic parts inside. ‐------- some parts of quote removed ------


According to the info supplied, this one has a bit more going on than the original types.
 
My 2012 Itasca 37F has a switch on the dash that controls a solenoid which temporarily jumps the chassis battery with the coach battery. Seems to make those devices unnecessary
Really two different things. These devices keep your chassis battery charged when parked and on shore power for an extended period of time. The momentary switch on your dash can save you if your chassis battery is dead, sure, but there are items on your motorhome besides the starter that need 12v power to run off the chassis battery and not every motorhome has this feature available.

It’s true that most new motorhomes are designed to automatically keep the chassis battery charged when on shore power, but many older RVs did not have this built in. And there are cases today where this process is disabled. So when the one product that folks used went off the market it created a problem for many RVers. That’s why this new version is noteworthy.
 
A point to consider may be how much value to put into this item?
When finally getting around to looking inside my Trik-L unit, I was seriously thinking I had been had for the money I spent. Now I see the new unit is priced at almost double the earlier version!
Just very much a small box with a couple very cheap electronic parts inside. Normal college kid parts to solder together when we get down to what it does. If you are not interested in having an LED alert you to having it connected, it can be even less involved.
I do not want to start a business and will not suggest, design, nor build one but if you are inclined to do a bit of thought and solder work and put this into a small plastic box, it can save you some money to find out what it involves to sneak a bit of current from one battery source to another and regulate it!
Think of an electronic "gate" that will only open one way when the voltage at point
"A" is higher than point "B" by a specific amount and close when those two voltages near even!

I found the real problem with this as a business venture is the legal side of being responsible on a number of things.
Sure if you want to or have to do the work. No doubt it is more expensive, but what isn’t these days.
 
My point would be that we can often find better value if we know what an item does.

In this case the idea is that we have a point "A" where we have the converter to charge the coach batteries and keep them at a float level. Then we also have a point "B' at the chassis battery where it would be handy to have some automatic way to let it get some charge from the coach system.

For simple , we want to let point "A" also charge and maintain the voltage at point "B" with minimal equipment! We want it to allow current to flow from A to B but we don't want current to flow B to A as that would risk running both sets down and leaving us stranded.
That leaves the first big question of what we can put to connect A and B that does what we want? Then we want to apply a few basic specs to find the correct item that does that.

So we want something that lets current flow in only one direction. That is a diode!
AI is beginning to be an item which I find handy for the quickie answers:
diode.jpg


Then we might want the current to start flowing when the chassis battery voltage gets down to some level. Maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 volt lower than the coach float voltage?
We also want this to be pretty solid and not likely to fail if the voltage gets very far above the "normal" 12-14 volts. Maybe we buy a type that is rated for max of 20 volts for a bit of safety factor.

Do you want to go the extra mile and build in an LED to tell you when it is connected ? If I put the gizmo back in some compartment, I don't consider going back to check to see if it is working if I hard wire it in the circuit, so I leave that "feature ' out!
Then if we are building this for our personal use, we likely want the parts to be cheap enough to factor in our labor to build it and still come out ahead?
If the commercial product is now near $99, we have some slack!
It might take buying a few different diodes to try and see exactly what the voltage does while we store the RV? No point in putting too much faith in our table top engineering!

Maybe step down to Mouser, etc. and buy a half dozen of a few selected types if they are cheap enough? Per item they get cheaper if you buy more!


price.jpg

This seems to be cheap enough to fit my budget, even with the unknown of tariff added! How much is the tariff on 36 cents?
And DO keep in mind that you have to find a couple feet of wire and a plastic bag to insulate it?
OR maybe go high class and cover it in heat shrink?
Maybe if we put it on the two big lugs of the mode solenoid which is usually in a dry space where we don't need a box or insulation?

The big expense you will likely want to avoid is the legal things about patents, etc. and the expense of adverts and sales folks if you sell it to others.

I like to keep alternates on hand for different situations and this is just what I might do if I needed one!
When I gamble I try to keep it at a very low level, so 36 cents seems like one I might try!
 
It’s pretty common that products today cost a good deal more than 15-20 yrs ago. So it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the new product costs more.
Boy howdy! Very true. Our first View, bought new in 08/2005, cost less than $90K … our second, bought new in 2012, was more, our third, bought new in 2017, was even MORE! Now I see the 2026 ones are about $258k msrp. Reckon we’ll keep the one we have 😎
 
Prices certainly don't stay the same.
My first house priced out at 12,500 but my last purchase was 425,000!
But I still consider it a bargain as I moved from owning Florida property that is no longer practical to pay the expenses and worry about losing it all in the next storm.
I no longer own anything close to any coast!
 
It’s true that most new motorhomes are designed to automatically keep the chassis battery charged when on shore power,
I wish my Vita did (at least it doesn't on 15amp house current). I have a little solar panel that I have to hook up straight to the battery lest the Sprinter's battery gets too low and the MB app starts nagging me about it.
 
Hi all—Brad here, designer of House2Start. Thanks for the thoughtful discussion and for keeping the Trik-L-Start / Amp-L-Start (TLS/ALS) legacy alive. When those products disappeared after the original developer passed, a lot of RVers lost a simple way to keep the chassis battery maintained while parked. That gap is exactly what led me to build House2Start. I just want to introduce myself to the forum and provide some technical commentary about different battery charging approaches mentioned in the thread.

The TLS/ALS devices use a 'voltage follower' approach for battery charging. There are still products on the market that use this voltage follower topology, notably the Xantrex Echo. These devices “echo” or “follow” the charging algorithm of the first battery and apply it to the second battery. These devices work best when both batteries are lead acid and they only transfer charge when the house battery voltage is sufficiently higher than the starter battery. Using a voltage follower device with a LiFePO4 (lithium) house onto a lead acid starter is not recommended. The main issue is LiFePO4 charge algorithm does not use temperature compensation, so in hot climates the lead acid battery will receive too high charge voltage.

The House2Start charger is a true independent battery charger, it is not a voltage follower product. It has similar multi-stage charging algorithm as found in AC powered chargers (ie NOCO, CTEK, etc), but instead of AC powered, it is DC powered. The house battery is simply providing a power source for the lead acid battery charger circuit, which is why House2Start can charge the starter battery even when the house voltage is less than the starter voltage. House2Start provides all the benefits of a plug-in lead acid charger (prevents deep discharge, prevents sulfation, increase battery life), all the necessary safety features (current limiting, temp compensation, under/over voltage protection, short circuit protection, etc), and is permanently installed, powered by the house battery, which is supplied by solar and/or shore power.

About the ‘just use a diode’ idea: It was suggested in this thread that a suitable diode can be a low cost DIY solution for charging the starter from the house. There is some logic to this approach, as the voltage follower devices mentioned above are similar to a diode. A bare diode can pass current in one direction (preventing reverse charge), but it does not provide current limiting or any fault handling. During cranking or transients, surge currents can easily exceed a diode’s rating; without proper current limiting and fusing at each battery, parts can overheat or even fail dangerously. Purpose-built maintainers address these issues directly. Please be careful with DIY here.
 
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For a 2024 Vita, the install will be similar / identical as a Navion/View. Easy DIY, no extra wires to run. The easiest place to install House2Start is onto the Mastervolt chargemate. The Chargemate is how the house battery is charged from the engine alternator, similar to a battery isolator.

The Chargemate is under the passenger seat and accessed by shifting or tilting the seat. Do not disconnect the seat's air bag system wiring harness when removing / tilting the seat.

Mastervolt "A" is starter (blue wire) and "B" is house (yellow wire). "A" is usually the top post but verify on actual RV. The bottom post may be difficult to access-- some RVs have a nearby relay also connected to "B" (house bank) which is easier to land the yellow wire than direct to the B post. VHB or double-stick tape the module to a flat service, zip tie the wires and you're finished.
 
I added it to my RV today. I ordered the House2start and the “install” kit. Came well packaged. Easy to install, and the kit comes with a healthy supply of various connectors that I would thin cover around 95%+ of most folks. I used the included 3m “sticky” tape for now to mount the unit on my sidewall of battery area, will screw on in the spring when I can get under RV and absolutely confirm there is nothing on the other side that the screws would hit.

I did need to adjust the jumpers for my setup. Unit powered right up and started charging. Happy camper!
 

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