Front Cap Oxidation 2019 Minnie Winnie 22R

[The Gabe]

I bought a 2019 Mini Winnie 22R in Texas. As you can see from the picture, the front cap is pretty oxidized. I have a couple questions:

1. I'm not all that concerned about aesthetics, but will the oxidation affect the long term health of the front cap?

2. Considering the oxidation, should I be concerned about the health of the rubber seals on the position lights? Should I replace them?

Thank you!

 

[Eagle5]

1. I'm not all that concerned about aesthetics, but will the oxidation affect the long term health of the front cap?
2. Considering the oxidation, should I be concerned about the health of the rubber seals on the position lights? Should I replace them?

Hi Terry,
1. Yes, the chalking will continue, and degrade the gel coat as time progresses. To the best of my knowledge, the best colors with which to repaint is either White or Robert's Gray. A good body shop might be able to recommend the same Tan color with which to repaint it that might hold-up, but for the boats in South Bend, only White or Robert's Gray holds-up over the decades. I remember one forum member reported a $2,500 body shop bill to repaint and clear-coat the cap.
Another option would be to have a vinyl wrap applied to the nose cap. Those seem to hold-up pretty well, and might be the least expensive option. If you check that out, please report back with what you find, OK? There again, probably the White vinyl would hold-up the best.
2. Yes, I would reseal the clearance lights. Here is the sealant guide for your 2019 22R:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/Sealant/000210036.pdf
Thanks, Eagle5

 

[The Gabe]

As always, thank you for your quick reply, Eagle5. I'll check with a bodyshop on repainting white or a applying a white vinyl wrap. I prefer white simply for the summer sun and heat. I'll report back on my findings. Also, thank you for the sealant guide.

 

[dkoldman]

I am not sure I follow? If you don't care about Aesthetics, I don't think you need to do anything.

But if you get someone that knows what they are doing, they can buff that front cap out and it will look brand new. You then just need to wax it and keep it waxed once or twice a year depending on whether you park it.

I have a 2019 and I will do my caps ( front & back) in the spring. I worry when my decals will go. Not sure how I will deal with that.

 

[RayIN]

Marine-grade rubbing compound will remove the chalking, but if you don't re-seal promptly the chalking returns.

Re: clearance lights. i found out the hard/expensive way; don't seal around clearance lights. Instead remove the light base and seal the wiring hole through the cap, I used Eternabond tape with the wires exiting the bottom, about ½" below the wiring hole.(water can't run uphill)

My clearance light lens filled with water because the base was sealed to the cap. This caused the lens to fill with water up to the wiring hole, where water then followed the wires into the RV wall, resulting in wood rot.
To prevent the light lens from retaining water again, I drilled a 1/8" hole in the bottom of each lens.
BTW; that was on a 3-yr old 5er.

 

[Wmlunt-WO]

I used “boat bottom cleaner” for the gel coat on my truck cap, cleaned the chalking off real easy, the decorated with gel coat and polished, now use good quality ceramic.
Bill

 

[BCam]

This is totally unscientific, but my 2002 is severely oxidized. I noticed recently when I power-washed it using Zep All-in-1 Premium Pressure Wash , the areas where I'd used a brush were nice and shiny. This was just a quick wash down so I didn't brush all over and, where I did, I didn't scrub. You wouldn't need a pressure washer. One advantage of this approach is there's no buffing or hard scrubbing required.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-172-...C160/202056508

In terms of ongoing protection, the boating industry has a wide range of fiberglass treatments that can be of help:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=marine+f...ne+fiberglass+polish,aps,206&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

[dkoldman]

There should be no hard scrubbing involved with buffing or waxing?

The point of buffing is to fix the issue because it was not protected from UV, elements etc. Waxing is the way to do that after the issue is fixed.

You can always hire someone to properly buff and wax the 1st time. It is even easier to pay the same to wax the RV once a year if self work is not desired.

One may find that proper waxing is a lot cheaper that having to repaint or wraps. All options are matter a personal choice.

But with that said, I circle back to this OP, he says he does not care about aesthetics, so not really clear on what we might be trying to solve?

When RV caps are oxidized that is bad health. Nothing wrong with it functionally, but the aesthetics is a bad look. If one does not care about aesthetics none of the above is required to removed the oxidation and to prevent it from future.

Ray in Indiana answered the question about position of lights and seals.

 

[The Gabe]

Thank you for all of your comments. They were very helpful and I've learned a lot! Thanks, again!

 

[Morich]

You've got some good info here, but there are always different ideas to consider.
The appearance and how much to spend can be a big one, whether you are DIY or paying to have it done. So we each have decisions to make and there is no perfect way to go.
I tend to like a reasonable appearance and not too much beyond but I am like you and want it to last.
Fiberglass is made of several layers and the last is for appearance. What you have is the top layer is losing the gloss and that makes things like dirt stick better!
But that next move can be all out and super expensive or far less.
I go for having the work done. Get it buffed, waxed, and polished once really well in the less than $500 range and see how that lasts. If it lasts four years and I do it again, I'm still quite a lot cheaper in the overall spending!
I'm okay with that because I might drive it into a tree next week! I'm not ashamed of the appearance but I'm not driving with my billfold on the roof!

But I also know that one of the biggest mistakes is not keeping things sealed and that can be a side issue when looking at the roof. Keep ALL the edges sealed as well as any lights or other places where the top or sides have openings. Don't skimp when it comes to sealing at all points, especially the windows!
Bad looking top may cost you a few thousand when you sell but leaker are often given away because the inside has rotted down!
Look at it somewhat like a house? The roof may look kind of bad but that is nothing compared to letting water rot the inside!

And that comes back around to the lights and sealing as there are things to avoid. One is assuming rubber gaskets will last! Not in the Texas sun! A good caulk/sealer will last much longer but it takes a bit of thought to avoid causing problems as mentioned.
The rubber is likely no good, so I take it off. You likely will find wires go in a hole and inside and water will follow those wires. BAD news! By the time you spot it getting all the way in where you see a wet spot, it may have already rotted half the wood and you have a big problem.

If find double attempts works for me. I ditch the rubber, put a ring of sealer around the hole. When you put the light back and screw it down, do it before the caulk has set too much so that is spreads out and "glues" the two together to form a thing ring around the hole. Then when I have the light back in place, I add the first line of defense as a seal around the light but not a total seal as I want any water that does get in, to also run down and out. so I leave a 1/8-1/4 inch gap at the bottom for draining.

But bigger than the lights are all those other joints on the top and sides as a tiny gap on a vertical surface can make a pocket for rain to gather and stand long enough to find that gap it needs! Seal them carefully and do it often!

A tiny string of caulk that is sealed well to the surface works far better than a tub full that looks like it was thrown from across the street! If the edge has lifted in places, I replace the whole run!
I find a cheap reciprocating tool is worth gold for working with caulk removal and that removal and cleaning is critical to get the new stuff to stick long term! Caulk won't stay if it is only clinging to a slick of dirt or old sealer, so I rub it good with rubbing alcohol, etc and let it dry before resealing!

Just the way I go and not meant to say others have to follow!

 

[The Gabe]

Thanks Richard!

 

[dkoldman]

Thanks Richard!

I am gonna pig tail on Morich a tad to say that the $500 should be to Compound buff / wax the entire rig, and if you hire the right guy it will look brand new.

Back to original point of emphasis, so if the cap was only worry, that may only cost $100.

I am no pro but I wash & wax my RV twice a year. In my view it is very easy to do, but just takes too long if that makes sense. I normally never exceed 1 hour in one work session. It takes me about 5 hours to do my 29VE which includes the roof. I span from 1 to 2 weeks depending on weather. My RV is parked outside in direct morning & evening Sun under a tree with no cover. Plenty of leaves, twigs and bird poop but no problems in 6 years now.

A few pictures as examples...

Threads like this gets me motivated, I can't wait until Spring. I usually will start with my roof 1st right after all of the pollen clears out of the air. Some never bother with the roofs, and for me the roof is my #1 priority. It is always cleaned which keeps my coach clean. I never see black streaks.

FWIW I have rotary and DA polishers, I just squirt the compound / polish / wax and let the machines do the work. The irony is many that fail doing it themselves is because they over do it, if it ain't easy you are doing it wrong

 

[bcoldpro]

Marine-grade rubbing compound will remove the chalking, but if you don't re-seal promptly the chalking returns.

Re: clearance lights. i found out the hard/expensive way; don't seal around clearance lights. Instead remove the light base and seal the wiring hole through the cap, I used Eternabond tape with the wires exiting the bottom, about ½" below the wiring hole.(water can't run uphill)

My clearance light lens filled with water because the base was sealed to the cap. This caused the lens to fill with water up to the wiring hole, where water then followed the wires into the RV wall, resulting in wood rot.
To prevent the light lens from retaining water again, I drilled a 1/8" hole in the bottom of each lens.
BTW; that was on a 3-yr old 5er.

"Clearance Lights" are the Running Lights on the roof nose?

 

[Eagle5]

Yes, Clearance Lights are mounted up-high, and Running Lights are typically co-located with the turn signal lenses.

 

[bcoldpro]

Yes, Clearance Lights are mounted up-high, and Running Lights are typically co-located with the turn signal lenses.

Next attempt to find the source of the continuing roof leak I will see how to pull the clearance lights and seal with Eternabond

 

[The Gabe]

I am gonna pig tail on Morich a tad to say that the $500 should be to Compound buff / wax the entire rig, and if you hire the right guy it will look brand new.

Back to original point of emphasis, so if the cap was only worry, that may only cost $100.

I am no pro but I wash & wax my RV twice a year. In my view it is very easy to do, but just takes too long if that makes sense. I normally never exceed 1 hour in one work session. It takes me about 5 hours to do my 29VE which includes the roof. I span from 1 to 2 weeks depending on weather. My RV is parked outside in direct morning & evening Sun under a tree with no cover. Plenty of leaves, twigs and bird poop but no problems in 6 years now.

A few pictures as examples...

Threads like this gets me motivated, I can't wait until Spring. I usually will start with my roof 1st right after all of the pollen clears out of the air. Some never bother with the roofs, and for me the roof is my #1 priority. It is always cleaned which keeps my coach clean. I never see black streaks.

FWIW I have rotary and DA polishers, I just squirt the compound / polish / wax and let the machines do the work. The irony is many that fail doing it themselves is because they over do it, if it ain't easy you are doing it wrong

I got a quote to buff and wax. They said $300 to buff out the cap and $1,000 to Buff out the cap + wax the rest. I think I'm going to pass. Actually, I kind of like the flat brown appearance of the cap.