Frig will not run on generator...

azloafer

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2009
Posts
277
We have a four door Norcold that will run on LP or AC from shore power, but will not run from the generator. Is this normal? Joe
 
Joe ...

Is it the refrigerator itself ... or is it the outlet behind the frig that is not hot when you are running your genset?

If you remove the outside "door" behind the frig you should find a 120 V outlet ... your refrigerator should be plugged into that outlet ... check to see if you have power at the outlet when the genset is running ...
 
skigramp, I'll check for that outlet the next time I go to the storage yard. Thanks, Joe
 
SKIGRAMP< It worked...but why?

skigramp,
Today I went to the coach and checked for the electric outlet that you mentioned. I found the plug in the outlet and no power while the generator was off. As soon as I turned the generator on there was power at the outlet. I used a “pen style” ac tester. Then I went to the fridge and set it for AC just like I did last time when it would not work. I expected it to start chirping and flash a code that there was no power within 15 seconds, just like the last time we used the coach. This time everything worked with no problem. I was stumped as to what happened on the last trip. I searched my memory and the only difference that I could come up with between this test and the last time is that this time I had the propane tank valve off. On the prior trip it was on. This doesn’t make any sense to me but it worked so I guess I shouldn’t worry about it. On the prior trip I had the generator on because it was hot here in Arizona and we needed it to cool the coach while driving. So I guess I should always have the propane tank valve off unless I need propane when not using the generator? Does that make any sense?

No matter what, I appreciate your help because I didn’t know there was AC in that cabinet. I had never been in there before. The steps that you told me to take solved the problem…:thumb:...even though I don’t understand it??? Does this make any sense to you, having the propane tank valve on or off? Joe
 
Last edited:
azloafer,
Propane valve on or off should not (would not) have anything to do with that electrical circuit working. Suggest that you look for a loose wire either on the breaker or within the plug.
 
I have no clue why it worked ... the LP being ON or OFF should have no bearing on the 120V power ...

I would spray a little WD-40 into the receptical and on the prongs of the plug (no 120V power either from the genset or the shorecord while you do this) ... and then wipe the excess away ... and then push the plug into the receptical firmly

I have to use this technique on the cord for my toad a couple of times a year ... that seems to clean away the tarnish ...

Of course I am a follower of my uncle who believed ... if it doesn't move and you want it to move .. spray it with WD-40 ... on the other hand, if it moves and you don't want it to ... then duct tape it in place ... :banghead:
 
Perhaps the automatic transfer switch was sticking, so not switching from shore power to generator ...and later the contacts popped into place. I used to have to bang our's with the heel of my hand to make it work when the points would stick ...it has since been replaced for other reasons. The question would be "was there 120v power to anything ELSE when the refrigerator couldn't find it?" If so, the transfer switch was working properly, and something else was going on...
 
Fridge on AC current

azloafer - since that electrical outlet is outside exposed to moisture it could be downstream of one of the GFCI ( Ground Fault Circuit Interupter outlets with the push buttons in between the plugs) outlets in your coach - usually any outside outlets are downstream of the washroom GFCI and it is possible it may be causing a problem- there are smal circut control boards inside this type of outlet and when they go bad they can work and then stop working and then work again - next time the fridge stops working on AC check the outlet outside and if no power is there then check for power at the inside GFCI .
 
azloafer - since that electrical outlet is outside exposed to moisture it could be downstream of one of the GFCI ( Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter outlets with the push buttons in between the plugs) outlets in your coach - usually any outside outlets are downstream of the washroom GFCI and it is possible it may be causing a problem- there are small circuit control boards inside this type of outlet and when they go bad they can work and then stop working and then work again - next time the fridge stops working on AC check the outlet outside and if no power is there then check for power at the inside GFCI .

Thanks for the info. If this happens again I'll check the GFCIs. Joe
 
Transfer switch location...

Perhaps the automatic transfer switch was sticking, so not switching from shore power to generator ...and later the contacts popped into place. I used to have to bang ours with the heel of my hand to make it work when the points would stick ...it has since been replaced for other reasons. The question would be "was there 120v power to anything ELSE when the refrigerator couldn't find it?" If so, the transfer switch was working properly, and something else was going on...

Where is that transfer switch that you bang on? I am good at hammer mechanics! Joe
 
UPDATE

azloafer,
Propane valve on or off should not (would not) have anything to do with that electrical circuit working. Suggest that you look for a loose wire either on the breaker or within the plug.

I checked the fridge operation today and found the problem...I think. The plug that goes into the receptacle on the back of the fridge (access from outside) appeared to be corroded. When I put the plug in and out a few times it made the circuit. I cleaned it up and now it works fine. :dance:

I got that fixed and now my jacks don't work... :sad: Joe
 

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