First Motorhome: 2007 Winnebago View 23H

[SteveM13]

I just bought a 2007 Winnebago View 23H from my neighbor.
He was the second owner.
Original owner put a lot of highway miles on it running from Minnesota to California.
62,000 miles, new tires, new batteries, very clean.
He liked it so much, he bought another one to replace it, just with a different floor plan, as with back and knee problems, he wanted one with a rear queen bed.
This is my first motorhome. About 15-20 years ago, we had a popup camper.
It runs great, everything appears to be working with the exception of a broken wire to one of the tank heaters.
Has the rattles you would expect from a 20-year old vehicle, so I'm going to go over it and fix as much of that as I can.
Already have five pages of notes of what to do to it and what to get.
Wife drive it and was comfortable with it, which was tops on the priority list.
We were looking at class Bs, but need it to be able to sleep at more than two, so not a lot available.
Didn't like the full class C as they are very wide. This one is more like the class B+.
We weren't expecting to get a motorhome for a couple of years, but when this popped up, we had to grab it.
Been working on detailing the exterior.
Have to look at installing some ham radio gear.

Steve

 

[Eagle5]

Hi Steve,
I bet many of us went looking for a motorhome, found not what we were looking for, but rather found exactly what we needed. Sounds like you have a great neighbor! Looks like a great rig for you and yours. Many View Owners here.
Welcome to the forum.
Eagle5

 

[Morich]

Looks somewhat like I might go for at some point. Congrats on a new experience!
But also may I add a word of warning?
One of the most disappointing things when we move to an RV over other ofrms of camping is how little info we get on what to expect!
Watching the batteries seems like such a simple thing but it often catches folks who are not getting some basics that are far diffferent than expected!
Mt fuirst big advise is whatch both chassis and coach batteries closer than ever as they are both easily ruined if we treat them like we do our cars. Use is far different as we tend to drive our cars every few days and that keeps the simgle battery charged. Not so when we ony get the RV out occasionally!
The dirty little secret is there are small drains on both the chasis and the coach batteries and if we ignore that long enough to totally drain one, it costs us a new battery! OUCH!
When and how to keep them charged is as varied as there are poeple using them, but a few points may help you avoid that big ouch on the first year!
Chassi/start battery is not normally charged in any way, if we don't make some provision to change that. It is also not common for that battery to charge when we plug the RV in!
Then the coach batteries have a very simple but very confusing setup as well. Way more difficult to get in mind for several confuing reasons!
When we leave the RV plugged in and the battery disconnect switch on, those batteries should get charged from the power converter onboard! But if we decide to save some money on power when we are not using the RV, we may unplug the RV. That leaves things like propane detectors and safety item still connected to the batteries , no matter which way we leave the disconnect switch! So we may disconnect the cord and charging but the batteries go dead because the battery disconnect switch doesn't remove ALL the drains.
Watch and check them often until you fully get some of the tricks in mind!
Enjoy the new adventure but it is lots more fun if we don't have to cough up a couple hundred for new batteries in the spring!

 

[Jinny Anderson]

Be sure to get the trans fluid changed bought ours with 79000 miles and were told it has lifetime fluid so don’t worry about it. The trans failed at about 90000 close to 4000 to replace it

 

[SteveM13]

>were told it has lifetime fluid
It did. Lifetime was 90,000 miles.

The prior owner had the transmission fluid changed at the last service.

Good suggestion, though.

What I have heard from multiple sources is that if you've never changed the fluid on a high-mileage car - don't.

If you are starting from new, change it on a schedule.

Steve

 

[Bnystrom]

>were told it has lifetime fluid
It did. Lifetime was 90,000 miles.

The prior owner had the transmission fluid changed at the last service.

Good suggestion, though.

What I have heard from multiple sources is that if you've never changed the fluid on a high-mileage car - don't.

If you are starting from new, change it on a schedule.

Steve

That advice makes no sense and falls into the category of "old mechanic's tales". Fluids don't get better over time, they get worse until they fail and take expensive components with them. Some items like the differential may go for a very long time without changing the oil, but I wouldn't put the transmission in the same category. It also depends on whether you tow or not, as the extra strain and heat of towing wears out all of the fluids faster. I commonly see recommendations of changing the transmission fluid every 40,000 miles or so, but you should check the color and if it starts turning brown, change it regardless of the mileage. It sounds like you won't have to worry about that for a while.

 

[Morich]

On sneaky things to consider checking and it may be something you already know asbeing closer to the owners?
How long has it been setting possibly stored? This can get us if the RV has been stored and not used for a few years as brake fluid is known to attract moisture! Called hydroscopic, if I got it right, but the idea is that the fluid can get water from the air and that water can cause rust inside places like the super shiny surfaces in brake wheel and master cylinders! The problem can be that we can't see there is rust there from the RV not being driven and then when we start to drive, that rust is scrubbed along all those shiny parts to eat them up in pretty short time!
Depending on how long stored, use and such, it may be worthwhile to have the brake fluid tested as I believe places can test for the water in the fluid. Check parts stores or possibly worth paying to prevent damage?

 

[SMH2026]

If you get the tranny serviced do not get it flushed, just change the sump fluid and filter. I've seen a LOT of transmissions killed by flush machines.

Good Luck,
SM

 

[Eagle5]

Hi SM,
Interesting about the flushing causing problems, and that does make sense. I believe most service guides just say to drain the pan and the torque converter, replace the filter(s) and pan gasket, and refill. I wonder if the flush is being recommended as a profit booster?
Eagle5

 

[Bnystrom]

You hit the nail right on the head.

 

[bigbAZ]

Congratulations, you have a 2006 Sprinter T1N chassis which is considered by many the best Sprinter ever made. Be sure to check out Sprinter-Source in the T1N forum where there are a lot of owners that know all about them. Member Markig has his outfitted with Ham gear and he has a website in his profile, although a Great West B van, not a View.

 

[Bnystrom]

"Best ever made?" I'd put the pre-DEF NCV3 chassis above the T1N. More power and a more reliable drivetrain, especially if you tow.

 

[bigbAZ]

"Best ever made?" I'd put the pre-DEF NCV3 chassis above the T1N. More power and a more reliable drivetrain, especially if you tow.

The T1N cult over at Sprinter-Source would disagree