Fickle slide-out problem on 2007 View

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Members are helping diagnose a slide-out that works inconsistently on a 2007 Winnebago View, sometimes operating with the engine on or off, and sometimes not at all. The original poster suspects the switch above the control panel but is unsure if the engine must be running for operation. Experienced RVers clarify that while running the engine is recommended for maximum battery power, the slide-out should function off the battery alone, suggesting the issue may be with wiring, the control...
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gibbs.dave

New Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2025
Posts
4
Location
Satellite Beach, FL
Hi Everyone -

The slideout on my 2007 View is flaky. Works some times, some times not. It has worked with the engine running, then doesn't. Worked with engine off, then not. Unless I'm not remembering correctly, I thought the manual said you needed to have the engine running. Which is why I was surprised when it worked with it off. Until it didn't.

Thought anyone? I'm wondering if the switch above the control panel is the culprit.
TIA
Dave
 
Some thoughts on what you may see? Yes, it is often good to have the engine running when moving slides or jacks. Not that is HAS to be running as those items work off the battery. But the idea is that those two items are heavy power users and it is just better if they have all the battery power they need to let them work better without heating.
But then it may definitely be a problem with wiring making good contact to power the controls and motors to move the slide. You may be totally correct that the switch is the problem. Maybe worn or maybe just needing some contact cleaner to clear that as an issue?
But there are a couple other things to consider and one may be easier to change out a plug in style relay than to try to work with finding if a switch is hit and miss?
This is a drawing of part of that.
slide issue.jpg

This relay may be somewhat easy to reach in the electrical box? If not sure where that is, tell us which 2007 view floorplan and we can do a check for that location, if needed?
But the idea may be that when you hit the switch, that may be failing to pass the signal OR that signal may leave the switch but the relay it should move may be at fault!
Two ways to sort the question may help. One is that this relay is a pretty common, relatively cheap item and you might want to just replace it as a quick try?
Second method may be to feel the relay to see if you can feel it move when the switch in front is pressed?
A bit higher tech move is to monitor the power into and out of the relay to see if it is passing that on to the slide motor?
I think I know this little relay and they often have drawings on the side to show which contacts open and close (meet?). That might let you go the higher tech route if that fits.
When you say it works and then doesn't, that makes me jump to contacts that close or not as they should!
There is also the plug that I circled and that can sometimes be helped if we spray contact cleaner on the connections. It rarely hurts anything and may help iof that is part of the problem. I feel that is less likely to be the hit and miss type but getting good power passed on to the motors can never hurt!
With me that move depends on how much trouble to get it found and cleaned!

This drawing is for one of the 07 view and likely is the same as what you have on this section of wiring, so may help to find the relay location and if wanting to change, it also shows the Winnebago part number.
Last page, bottom right for relay info!
However, I think you may be able to walk this relay in to lots of auto parts stores and find they can match it?? I find that is often easier and better pricing than OEM numbered parts!
 
Another variable in slide performance is the parking brake switch. If it is intermittent or misadjusted it can prevent slides and leveler from working. If the parking brake is not fully engaged or the switch is misadjusted, the slides will not work.
 
Yes, if you get into checking the wiring, this chart will be a big help to ID the wires, both on the drawings as well as the labels stamped on the small wires.
This is the part of the drawing that shows the park brake info and wire ID:
brake sw.jpg
That's a reasonably complex setup with wiring that goes a number of places that might make it difficult to go to each spot to check but the relay is one where we get much of the input all in one spot, so if we can get to it, we can test for troubles from the other spots like the brake switch, dash switch, etc. and move to eliminate several of the other sites which can be hard to get to if they are up under the dash, etc.

On this bit of drawing the two wires AAY and AAZ both go to the motor. That would be a place to check that power is getting to that point to show the rest of the circuit was working.
But if we look at wire DY and see it change as we put the park brake on/off, we can then avoid the trauma of getting up under the dash to check that switch!

The old idea of garbage in / garbage out is one way to avoid trying to follow the whole circuit through all the various input/output locations if we can find a point where most of them come together.
 
Turn house battery off for 15 mins, then turn on again and try it.
 
Some thoughts on what you may see? Yes, it is often good to have the engine running when moving slides or jacks. Not that is HAS to be running as those items work off the battery. But the idea is that those two items are heavy power users and it is just better if they have all the battery power they need to let them work better without heating.
But then it may definitely be a problem with wiring making good contact to power the controls and motors to move the slide. You may be totally correct that the switch is the problem. Maybe worn or maybe just needing some contact cleaner to clear that as an issue?
But there are a couple other things to consider and one may be easier to change out a plug in style relay than to try to work with finding if a switch is hit and miss?
This is a drawing of part of that.
View attachment 1943727
This relay may be somewhat easy to reach in the electrical box? If not sure where that is, tell us which 2007 view floorplan and we can do a check for that location, if needed?
But the idea may be that when you hit the switch, that may be failing to pass the signal OR that signal may leave the switch but the relay it should move may be at fault!
Two ways to sort the question may help. One is that this relay is a pretty common, relatively cheap item and you might want to just replace it as a quick try?
Second method may be to feel the relay to see if you can feel it move when the switch in front is pressed?
A bit higher tech move is to monitor the power into and out of the relay to see if it is passing that on to the slide motor?
I think I know this little relay and they often have drawings on the side to show which contacts open and close (meet?). That might let you go the higher tech route if that fits.
When you say it works and then doesn't, that makes me jump to contacts that close or not as they should!
There is also the plug that I circled and that can sometimes be helped if we spray contact cleaner on the connections. It rarely hurts anything and may help iof that is part of the problem. I feel that is less likely to be the hit and miss type but getting good power passed on to the motors can never hurt!
With me that move depends on how much trouble to get it found and cleaned!

This drawing is for one of the 07 view and likely is the same as what you have on this section of wiring, so may help to find the relay location and if wanting to change, it also shows the Winnebago part number.
Last page, bottom right for relay info!
However, I think you may be able to walk this relay in to lots of auto parts stores and find they can match it?? I find that is often easier and better pricing than OEM numbered parts!

Thanks much for the response last fall! I didn't respond 'cuz the RV went into storage and I couldn't debug any further.

Just now preparing to leave FL for the summer and same stuff, different year. Took the RV out of storage, drove it home to load it up. Plugged it in to shore power. Slide wouldn't open.

36 hours later, expecting some experienced RV owner friends coming over to help troubleshoot, I thought "what the heck", pushed the extend button - VOILA - opens just fine.

It's a 2007 View model 23H.

Can you please tell me where I can find the contacts you mention above that might benefit from contact cleaner?
 
Yes, but different RV and not looking good to get to that plug?? Maybe take a look but looks like behind a speaker and under the frig?
plug access.jpg

What I see on drawing shows this plug and feeds a relay to extend/retract slide.
new wiring.jpg

Not to confuse with 9 pin plug also under there! But maybe not the best bet on a come and go problem?
There is a small plugin relay that might be easier to swap out with one that is same type but hard for me to guess if that is easier to find those two or not, but a suggestions I might try before trying the hard stuff?
Suspect one is shown as in "chassis electrical box" ? Got a good idea of where that might be as I'm not finding it!
But the same relay is also shown here, so if you can get to both and they are just plug in that I think, maybe easier for a test run?
Can you find same type under the bed?
relay swap.jpg

For big picture or if friend is inclined, this is the picture type that tells location:
And this is the elctrical schematic drawingof the 12Volt:

Sometimes these drawings can tell a lot but leave out lots of stuff we need. You can hide a lot under the bed, so we can't find it! I have to guess where the bed is!

EDIT! found the relay for slide:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/2007/07_500-ser_wire_152714.pdf sheet 2!
slide relay.jpg
 
Your slide is powered by your chassis battery and it’s a very large amp load. This is why your Operator’s Manual says to have the engine running, to help the battery with this load.

So, it’s possible that after time in storage the chassis battery was not at its best to handle the load, but then after some continuous charging it was better prepared to complete the task?

This is not to say that there are no other issues, I just think it’s best to look at the simple obvious reasons FIRST before diving into wiring charts and controller parts.
 
Good point on starting the engine first as that does give the best chance of getting good power to high current items like slides and jacks.
And batteries are among the simple realy confusing things on an RV! Surface charge is often what confuses people as it is the charge right at the posts and may not really mean much on the overall charge in the battery. It is normal for batteries to take hours to charge but if we put a charge voltage on for even fifteen minutes and check the voltage it may tell us the battery is actaully charged beyond full!
It is sometimes described as like syrup poured into a hold in a barrel. If we look too soon after we have added the syrup/charge, we may see a pile of syrup but if we give it time that settles and we find the barrel has hardly anything in it!
The way the effects us on Rv is simple. We think it has been charged but when we try to use the power, it goes dead way too soon. That can make us feel we have a real problem, when the true stroy is that we have a near dead battery!
Whether that is true, just keep the idea in mind for cases when it may come back to bite you?
I'm often glad to admit I was confused, especially if the other option is working to fix something that I can't even find! :socool:
 

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