Fiberglass roof to J channel repair 2005 Journey

[HiBanky]

I decided I couldn't put it off any longer. The adhesive that attaches the fiberglass roof to the J channel at the bottom edge of the radius has degraded to the point that could result in the roof coming off in the wind. So, after a bit of research, I found the Winnebago approved adhesive and climbed up on the roof with tools in hand. Getting the old stuff out of the J channel proved to be a tremendous undertaking but with patience, sweat and a little bit of blood I succeeded in getting all the old adhesive out and replaced it with better material. Working in cooler weather helps to keep the old stuff coming out in fewer pieces. Also removing all the old material, cleaning out the dirt, and prepping the surfaces with alcohol, I believe will be key to a lasting repair. It's a physically demanding job, so if you are not up for 20 plus hours of kneeling and scraping, you may want to find an experienced repair guy and pay the cost. I opted not to stand on a ladder for safety reasons and limited leverage. Scaffolding or a lift would obviously be the best approach if you have one.

 

[bigbAZ]

I did mine a few years ago and used the Proflex stuff because that's what James recommended. Later I found out Winnebago used Proflex on MHs with full body paint only because it was clear, and they used Manus bond on the rest which is supposed to be better. So I really wish I would have used Manus.

Mine is holding up OK though, I not only removed every bit of the old by using Roloc discs, then primer followed by fresh paint, I also keep my rig inside a garage so hopefully this will be something I'll never have to do again.

Does the Manus product stay pliable?

 

[HiBanky]

Google AI answer:
Yes, Manus-Bond 75-AM is designed to stay pliable and flexible over time, even in extreme temperatures, resisting cracking, peeling, and shrinking, making it a durable elastomeric adhesive/sealant for construction and manufacturing. Its polyether technology ensures long-term flexibility with high elongation (around 275-400%) and excellent weathering resistance, as noted in its technical specifications.

Manus web site:

Manus Products | Manus-Bond 75-AM All Purpose

www.manus.net

 

[wahoonc]

Interesting on the Manus 75. Winnebago told me to use Henry's 212 Crystal Clear on mine. That is on the list for this year. I used Proflex on my Coacmen Class C with excellent results. I had to recaulk a couple of poorly done factory seams.

When the Winnebago does this at the factory, they use product from large drums and employ an air-powered sealant gun.

Aaron

 

[Bnystrom]

I did ours last year and found the the key to removing the old caulk was to flood the area with alcohol and use plastic razor blades to separate the caulk from the paint, without doing any paint damage. I made a hook-shaped tool that fit in the groove and made it pretty easy to get the end of the caulk out. If you loosen the caulk this way, it can be pulled out in long strands.

I resealed it with ProFlex RV and it's holding up fine so far.

 

[Americanrascal2]

Been doing mine in sections that deteriorated over the past 10 years. I inspect about every 3 months and seem to find 3-5 feet every time that needs to be cleaned, removed and re-installed. Also I've noticed the problem areas often occur in the ends of the J rail on either side -front or rear. I've used Manus Bond and Proflex at different times. Now considering Silkaflex. I use the "belly flop" on the roof technique as my ladder skills are aging out and deteriorating.

 

[RayIN]

I hope you didn't forget to reinstall the spline holds the fiberglass down first.

 

[HiBanky]

I hope you didn't forget to reinstall the spline holds the fiberglass down first.

I chose not to take the original spline out. Time will tell if that was a good decision.

 

[RayIN]

I chose not to take the original spline out. Time will tell if that was a good decision.

I hope you are right; I did the same thing 3 yrs ago. Your picture appeared to show the spline hanging out. must have been old sealant. 83 yrs old eyes don't work so good now.

 

[Bnystrom]

Not all RVs with this style roof have a spline installed. Ours 2010 View definitely did not; it had sealant only.

 

[bigbAZ]

No spline on my 2011 Via either. If I recall the spline was used on a production run where the filon was cut slightly too short and the fix was to add the spline.

 

[Bnystrom]

No spline on my 2011 Via either. If I recall the spline was used on a production run where the filon was cut slightly too short and the fix was to add the spline.

M I C...K E Y...M O U S E I imagine that most of use here are old enough to remember this.

This is just another example of the RV industry using a "quick and dirty fix" instead of doing the right thing for their customers. Ugh!

 

[bigbAZ]

I'll be the first to say I don't have a lot of faith in AI but FWIW here's the search result:

Google Search

And to further lower my confidence in AI, when I followed my link the wording from the original page of a few minutes earlier had changed. Here is what it originally said:

 

[Bnystrom]

Assuming that the above is true, this was probably done on full body paint rigs, as Eternabond tape would have been unsightly in-between the painted wall and painted roof radius. So owners paid extra for the paint and got a half-assed fix to a manufacturing defect in return.

 

[Journey39n]

No spline in my channel. I have used both Manus and Henry over the 15 years we have been travelling. Every year, usually a few spots of several feet needed replacing. Three years ago, I tried using the Flex-Glue clear (yes, the one advertised on TV). Placed probably 30 feet total on the side channels. So far, no sections have needed replacing. I will do another close inspection this spring, expecting to find some spots that need replacing, but we shall see. I have been surprised as to how good that product has been.

 

[Bnystrom]

I've tried a couple of their products for other purposes and found that they're basically junk. I won't trust them on our RV.

 

[Journey39n]

I will admit, I tried the 'flex-seal' and considered it just so-so. But the 'flex-glue' has performed very well for me. Not only the 'clear' on the roof side channels, but the 'white' for repairing my shower pan.

On the shower pan, ABS plastic, hardly anything will stick to it. After 7 years of full-time living, with two heavy people, using the shower several times a week, the pan developed a partial circular crack around 1/2 the drain ring. I applied specific epoxy for ABS, both above and below the crack. That repair lasted about 2 years. I reapplied the repair, more attention to detail and prep this time, adding a reinforcing plate on the underside. Again, got about 2 years before it failed again.

So, with the shower now being about 11 years old, I decided to apply a layer of the Flex-glue white, very thick, under the shower pan surface, spreading out several inches in all directions from the crack, filled the crack of course, and shaped a nice ring of the flex-glue around the drain rim, on the top surface. Other than a slight discoloration at the drain ring, the repair has been holding now, going past 4 years. Very happy, I really didn't want to try to find a new shower pan and do the work to replace it.

Last spring, we had a 21" downpour of rain in one 24-hour period here in the Rio Grande Valley. A leak at the skylight started dripping from the low corner into the shower. During a slight lull in the heavy rain, I went up on the roof, looked for the likely spot for the leak. Ah-ha, the lap-sealant had pulled away a bit at the skylight's low corner, giving water a place to pool a bit, and seep in, that was my guess. With some left-over flex-glue white, I blew the water off the low edge corner of the skylight best I could in the drizzle and applied that flex-glue right over the lap-sealant edge, wet surface and all, into the gap at the corner of the skylight. I couldn't check it much as the rain started to pour again, I wanted to get off the roof. No more drip through the remaining hours of our huge downpour. We did have waterfront property the next day though. What a mess with water flooding everywhere, took a couple days to finally recede.

Just my experience with the Flex-'glue' product, I respect others and their experiences that may be different.

 

[Rmuddog]

I decided I couldn't put it off any longer. The adhesive that attaches the fiberglass roof to the J channel at the bottom edge of the radius has degraded to the point that could result in the roof coming off in the wind. So, after a bit of research, I found the Winnebago approved adhesive and climbed up on the roof with tools in hand. Getting the old stuff out of the J channel proved to be a tremendous undertaking but with patience, sweat and a little bit of blood I succeeded in getting all the old adhesive out and replaced it with better material. Working in cooler weather helps to keep the old stuff coming out in fewer pieces. Also removing all the old material, cleaning out the dirt, and prepping the surfaces with alcohol, I believe will be key to a lasting repair. It's a physically demanding job, so if you are not up for 20 plus hours of kneeling and scraping, you may want to find an experienced repair guy and pay the cost. I opted not to stand on a ladder for safety reasons and limited leverage. Scaffolding or a lift would obviously be the best approach if you have one.
View attachment 2404927View attachment 2404928

Did mine over 2 years. I tried re-sealing with caulk didn't work. Years later I start reading about insurance not covering the $15k + amount to replace/repair a blown off roof do to neglect (not resealing or yearly inspections) of roof seals take pictures. I could push the roof in and out at the track with no bond. I had a month long trip down Wa and Or coast.... Very Windy. So I started watching U Tube on Winnebago MH roof re-sealing. After watching 10 or so videos I found one that looked like he knew what he was doing and followed his direction. He used Fl-Seal it would seal if the track is wet or oily.

What a WORKOUT! The original crap is hard to get out. To make my story short watch utube buy the sealant (for 32T I used 4-tubs a side) , buy 50min (white rages NOT Red) 30 csi black gloves and 3-cans of non-alcoholic spray window cleaner.

The 1st side took me 4-days start/finish and 2-weeks to recover.

The next year I did the other side. It took me a 2-days

RENT!!! A power tube gun!!! Save your arms/hands. Use alot of window cleaner to clean the track and when wiping with your (gloved) finger to wipe. The window cleaner helps your finger glide across the edge of the roof/track giving a nice finish. Wipe for about 3 or 4" at a time then wipe finger off on rage (white) if you use a red rage you'll have red fuzzy stuff in your new seal. Good luck