Expansion Solar Panel for 2023 Micro Minnie 2108FBS

Btw, what does ASCOPS stand for? I assume it is the build sheet for the trailer?
 
A friend (who doesn't want to be named) and I both have 2022 MM 2108FBS FLX models with Factory installed Solar Panels. There was a safety bulletin regarding the mounting of the rooftop solar panels. On our FLXs, the panels came with wind deflectors. He isn't comfortable climbing on the roof to inspect his so I lend a hand and noticed his driver side solar panel had loose and missing screws. I believe the only reason this panel did not fly off of the roof was because of the wind deflectors. The photo on the far right is my trailer with the factory wind deflector. I had it AeroArmor coated. We both go on extremely rough roads (including I-10 through Louisiana!) and I travel appox 2500 miles per year (fulltimer). The aluminum frames around each panel are THIN and the screws don't get much bite. I know this isn't exactly what you're asking about wattage, but since mounting was mentioned, I thought I'd show some 'real world' experience.
 

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Good Morning Amazonica. I had the same issue come up on my trailer. I posed a robust fix here:

 
Looking at the Go Power Site it looks like the Overlander Expansion Kit comes with bolts to secure the panel to the bracket and of course the screws to attach the brackets to the roof. Assume the length is correct to reach trusses.

I have yet to hear back from Winnebago Customer Service as to what model of panel is installed at build. I'm thinking it is the Overlander 200 (2023+).

Can anyone confirm this for me please.

Bill, ACOPSS (sorry for the mis abbreviation). Stands for Appliance and Component Serial Number Sheet (see attached). Lists Make, Model and Serial Number
 

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I replaced my 100 watt panel with a 385 watt residential panel. Used the same wire and connectors. Just upgraded the solar charge controller to handle more juice. If you have the roof space the single panel, you can pick them up cheap on Marketplace. So happy I did this. Now I have more solar than I need in most situations.
 
Oh and I did the work myself. Parts cost was probably $20 (needed more brackets) plus the charge controller.
 
Quality Winnebago workmanship (trusses were not 90 deg to the outside wall).

Good to know, thanks Thindirtline.

Winnebago got back to me with the ACOPSS document, no listing for Solar Panel or Controller. Told me to contact GoPower.

Contacted GoPower, they asked me two questions;

1) Watts of OEM installed Panel (200)
2) Colour of Aluminum Frame (Silver)

The Expansion Panel is an Overlander-E-200

Lyle
 
Hello, Found myself a 2023 Micro Minnie 2108FBS. Standard equipment is 200 watts Go solar on roof. (Believe it the Overlander Model). Can anyone confirm this.

I've asked the seller to quote on the install of a second 200 watt panel. Besides exact same size, does it have to be the exact same make and model?

Is install an easy peasy, (4 brackets to the roof) or is getting the dealer to do it a recommendation.

Thanks
Does not have to be the same size or wattage. I bought 2 additional 100 watt panels by Renogy. You can buy their brackets in a kit. Just buy the necessary wiring, fittings such as “2-1 or 3-1 and connect to your existing roof wiring. You will need the correct wire crimpers. Then you need a better solar charger controller which is down below in the bay. Mine came with a 30 amp and I upgraded to a larger and better quality controller. I just studied a bit and replaced the solar controller, and everything works great with now having 400 watts on the roof.
 
Hello from British Columbia.

My original plan was to install a second panel to my 2108 on the door side of the trailer (Front Location) to match the OEM installed panel which is on the road side. We talked about hitting the trusses, hoping if I use the OEM location all might be good lol.

Shopping around, turns out end of year is a good time to buy, So the plan now is to buy two panels (200w) and install the second across the rear of the trailer between the shower skylight and air conditioner in middle (Rear Location). Now we definitely wont hit trusses.

Thoughts
 

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Since you have the rood assembly drawing you should be able to hit the trusses. Not sure if a stud finder will help but it is worth a try.
 
I'm most concerned with the rear panel that goes in the same direction (length) of the trusses and the mounting brackets being on the side. Even if I put the mounting brackets on the ends (drill new holes in panel frame), the truss spacing is at 16 c/c and the panel is only 26 1/2 wide and one bracket's
hole spacing is wider than the truss itself.

As it sits, unless I put a strut across the trusses and mount the panel brackets to the strut, I'm screwing into the plywood only.

Anyone had issues mounting directly to the plywood and missing trusses altogether.
 
The front panel on mine (previous post pic) has the rear panel screws into just the plywood. I did use stainless screws with deeper threads (deeper in diameter, not longer) and I pitched that panel with a 1/2 drop at the front. This way most of an aerodynamic load would push the panel downward. I've had that panel installed for almost two years with maybe 6k miles driven with it and have had no issues.
I think the key here is to be sure to predrill the correct pilot hole and not use a power driver to install those fasteners. A power driver 'could' strip the thin plywood. Also make sure to use adequate sealant on the hardware.
 
Agree 1000% with hand screwdriver! Most of the younger folks have no clue when to stop, I find it difficult myself, so always use a hand driver in delicate situations!
Stealership that did my winterizing last year stripped every screw with a drill driver, even after cautioning them not to…
SMH Bill
 

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