Dometic WH10GEA Swap on a 2003 Winnebago Bay Door Fit

[A1RVTraveler]

I'm a repairman being asked to replace an old Atwood 10-gallon water heater with the new Dometic WH10GEA with the new Dometic water heater door. This 2003 Winnebago has a bay door that closes over the outside of the water heater. The new Dometic water heater exhaust opening does not line up with the old bay door. How have you dealt with this issue? Thanks for your insight.

 

[klook]

There is a Suburban water heater I think that is a direct replacement and will match up. I know there for the 6 gallon model.

 

[klook]

Etrailer has great service. IF you call them one of their people will tell you if its possible.

 

[Zoohelp]

I'm a repairman being asked to replace an old Atwood 10-gallon water heater with the new Dometic WH10GEA with the new Dometic water heater door. This 2003 Winnebago has a bay door that closes over the outside of the water heater. The new Dometic water heater exhaust opening does not line up with the old bay door. How have you dealt with this issue? Thanks for your insight.

Keep in mind the existing unit almost certainly had the motoraid feature. If unfamiliar, it used engine coolant circulated around the water heater to "assist" in keeping the water warm while driving. There are no current water heaters that use that, so you'll have to have a plan for capping off those lines. I'd try to find the closest way at the engine to avoid old lines leaking or bursting and draining the engine coolant.

 

[A1RVTraveler]

So here is an update. I did remove the old Atwood 10-gallon AC-LP water heater. I did have the motor-aid function on the old water heater so I cut the antifreeze line near the engine and added a connection nipple. All is good there.

The new Dometic 10-gallon AC-LP water heater was a nice installation. The water heater comes with a 36-inch cord for the AC side. I added a nice Duplex-outlet next to the new water heater using the existing 120 VAC line. This allowed me to just plug in the new water heater.

The plumbing on the back of the new water heater has the inlet and outlet fittings in a different location than the old water heater. I was able to add a new Flair-it 90 swivel fitting to the cold line and it connected nicely. The hot outlet fitting was about 8 inches to far away for the original hot water line so I added an in-line Flair-it fitting and added a little more PEX and then finished with a new Fair-it 90 swivel fitting. I also added a brass check-valve on the hot side outlet to allow for winterization.

The real issue is as follows. The new Dometic water heater exhaust is in the top-middle of the water heater. I bought the new Dometic door and all fit great. This RV has an exterior bay door that closes down over the water heater. This bay door is about 2-inches thick and it has a cutout opening for the old Atwood water heater exhaust. I am not comfortable at all with allowing this new water heater to operate on LP. At this point, the LP side is disabled until a resolution can be found for the bay door exhaust opening. I can't believe I am the first one to have this issue.

Dometic said that they can't make a recommendation because it's not their bay door and Winnebago said the bay door needs to be modified and repainted.

 

[l1v3fr33ord1]

A1RVTraveler-

You aren't the first one to have this issue (nor the last who will have it). Winnebago knows best; you require a modified or new door skin. A decent auto body shop should be able to make, paint and mount one for you.