Dometic water heater breaker location? 2008 Winnebago View 24J

A brief rekindle of this thread concerning the Dometic water heater. If I am reading the schematics correctly, the heater doesn't care where the AC 120v comes from. The 12v DC switch on the wall controls the on/off function via the relay at the heater, and also is controlled by the thermostats on the heater itself via the relay. IF in fact that is true, then I should be able to steal AC from any AC source. There are many (too many) AC outlets that I never use in obscure locations. Those are controlled by 3 AC breakers in the power center, same rating as the microwave/water heater circuit. Any reason i can't put a junction box in and tap into one of those outlet boxes and run it into the water heater? Checking this out before I slide the water heater back into its home place. Advice here has been a big help, and I appreciate any and all comments. B the way, off subject, diesel here is at $7.48 gal.
 
That could work as long as there isn't much load on the circuit when heating water. Technically it should be a dedicated circuit. Your 10 ohms of resistance on your element indicates it is 1,440 watts, or 12 amps. I don't know how many gallons your water heater is but mine is 6 gal and my element is only 1,000 watts and it has no problem heating up the water in 20 minutes.
 
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That could work as long as there isn't much load on the circuit when heating water. Technically it should be a dedicated circuit. Your 10 ohms of resistance on your element indicates it is 1,440 watts, or 12 amps. I don't know how many gallons your water heater is but mine is 6 gal and my element is only 1,000 watts and it has no problem heating up the water in 20 minutes.
My water heater is 6 gal. too, but the element is 1400 watts. I will likely put in a 1000 Watt element as well. I will double check, but i believe there are only two outlets on this circuit, one will be the water heater and i will disable the other. It's not an ideal set up, but getting to the intellitec is out of the question for me.
 
Thinking along the same line but something to consider? Since normal operation is set up to use either the microwave OR the water heater and it was designed to automatically turn off the water ehater while the micro was on, what about the idea to keep much the same operation but do it manually?
In our use with propane, we just naturally left the water heater off most of the time, both to save propane as we had no option for electrical water heating.
One way to leave things much the same except do the switch manually, is to tie the water heater on with the micro?
I've not looked at wire locations but that would seem to leave things much as designed only you would have to be aware of not using both at the same time? but it does have the advantage of the same breaker size limits that you have now.
The downside of getting it wrong until getting used to it is that the breaker might trip, which is not likely to be a big issue once you find where that breaker is to reset it.

On a different note? Have you noticed that there is a certain amount of code on the Romex colors and white is the water heater? Might help ID when looking!
 
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Thinking along the same line but something to consider? Since normal operation is set up to use either the microwave OR the water heater and it was designed to automatically turn off the water ehater while the micro was on, what about the idea to keep much the same operation but do it manually?
In our use with propane, we just naturally left the water heater off most of the time, both to save propane as we had no option for electrical water heating.
One way to leave things much the same except do the switch manually, is to tie the water heater on with the micro?
I've not looked at wire locations but that would seem to leave things much as designed only you would have to be aware of not using both at the same time? but it does have the advantage of the same breaker size limits that you have now.
The downside of getting it wrong until getting used to it is that the breaker might trip, which is not likely to be a big issue once you find where that breaker is to reset it.

On a different note? Have you noticed that there is a certain amount of code on the Romex colors and white is the water heater? Might help ID when looking!
Yeah, I think you are on to something. I'll take a look this afternoon at wire location. Should be fairly straight forward to locate micro-wave wire. I'll get back to you. Thanks!
 
Sometimes not enough info and others too much to find and keep in mind?
This is some info on Romex if not found yet:
Lots of good info, even down to which way they label current flow and amount!!!
One point that seems small but might help to ID where the next connection is the length of that specific Romex. States it was started in 2007?
romex info.jpg
 
I did find the circuit with some difficulty. The difficulty being there is 3 romex lines bundled inside a protective sheath; once the sheath is stripped away there is 2-15 amp romex (white) and one 20 amp romex (yellow), which it turns out is the wire to the microwave. It is 12 awg wire and it is on a 20 amp breaker. So now the fun begins! I will put in a outlet box adjacent to the water heater with 20 amp receptacle (standard 2 female), and run one line up to the microwave and one line up to the water heater. each with a male 20 amp plug. Much easier than a junction box. This allows either appliance to be disconnected. I might add that the actual wiring would never pass inspection by L&I here in Washington for a house or commercial use. Could be a previous owner had something to do with that, because generally speaking Winnebago Views are excellent quality.
 
In my 29r there is a drawer under the fridge. Pulling that out gives me access although only about 5". You might want to cut the panel below the fridge out . Do a neat job(you'll have full access) then cover it with a vent. Good airflow and access to the electrical. Win? Win?
 
In a 2008 Winnebago View J , which has a Dometic 6 gallon, electric/gas combo water heater. Works fine on gas, but not on electric. Pulled the water heater, with little problem as there is very tight access to heater while installed. Pulled the element and tested for continuity and resistance. Good continuity and about 10-11 ohms resistance Slightly corroded. Ordered new element, since i have it apart. But upon testing, found no AC power to water heater, nor to the relay. Power for AC is romex. No power in romex as far as I can ascertain. AC breakers in panel are not labeled, but nothing is tripped there. Switch on wall to switch on AC to water heater lights up, but no power downstream from there. Is there another fuse/breaker inline that i am missing? Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions welcome.-Bill
Check for power at the switch!
 
A brief rekindle of this thread concerning the Dometic water heater. If I am reading the schematics correctly, the heater doesn't care where the AC 120v comes from. The 12v DC switch on the wall controls the on/off function via the relay at the heater, and also is controlled by the thermostats on the heater itself via the relay. IF in fact that is true, then I should be able to steal AC from any AC source. There are many (too many) AC outlets that I never use in obscure locations. Those are controlled by 3 AC breakers in the power center, same rating as the microwave/water heater circuit. Any reason i can't put a junction box in and tap into one of those outlet boxes and run it into the water heater? Checking this out before I slide the water heater back into its home place. Advice here has been a big help, and I appreciate any and all comments. B the way, off subject, diesel here is at $7.48 gal.
 
To wrap up this thread concerning the Dometic Water heater. I followed up on the advice of Morich and bigbAZ and rewired in such a way as to manually switch to either the water heater or the microwave. After calculating the watts used by each, I reinstalled a 900 watt element in the water heater, which theoretically allows to use both, although they are wired separately. After reinstalling the water heater and testing, it works, and the problem is solved.
Takes about 20 minutes th heat the water by electric with the smaller element. Thanks for the attention and good advice.

Bill
24J View
Olympic Penninsula
 

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