Does any one personally service their Diesel Pusher

[EngineerMike]

Usually the answer to "Did you hit all the grease zerks?" is "Yep."

Better question (assumes you know the answer) is "What was your count on grease zerks?"
Then ask "How many on drive line?" "Brakes?" (i.e. let them tell you what the zerks fed, make the question as wide open as you can so they have to describe what was done). Probably good courtesy to say ahead of time, "there'll be a quiz on how many & what zerks you grease so we know its all done right." Anybody good won't mind the oversight, after all you should know your chassis better than they do.

 

[CaptPat-WO]

I give the guy with the grease gun a diagram of the underside of the coach showing where each grease zerk is, I find it's easier to be helpful rather than quiz them on their work. YMMV

 

[robbstein]

We have the 03 Advantage with the Spartan chassis. I've been doing most of the work myself, including oil changes, trans changes, etc. The fuel filter does not have a clear bowl on it, but does have the 'water in fuel' sensor in the bottom. Had a problem with that a couple of years ago where I got a bad load of fuel, so the sensor does work!

 

[rowesort]

Rowesort - I have a 2001 U/F 40WD -
It doesn't seem to have a sight glass to check for water.....I have 2 fuel filters - 1 just up under the starter - had them changed 3000 miles ago but get concerned about water in fuel! Like you put on 2000 miles in spring and fall. Are the fuel separator sight glasses sold separately or with the filter....or do you even have one. Do you use any additives to eliminate water?
Where are the coolant filters?
How many miles on your U/A?
I have 35,000 on mine, bought it used last Spring, so not sure what all had been done - it appears to have had regular service, but didn't get all the paperwork, so don't want to take any chances!
At what interval did you change ATF fluid and filter?
Sorry for all the questions, I have always done maintenance on my cars, M/C, SkiDoo's etc, but am new to Diesel maintenance!
Appreciate your input,
Gary

I Only have the one filter, and it comes with a water separater on it. It is located above the starter. I have ran 12,000 miles between fuel filter changes and only changed same for piece of mind. Filters change intervals are only as good as the quality of fuel you are buying get a bad tank full and your filters will plug so always carry spares. Having said that it is my opinion that after so many gallons the filter starts to be more restrictive and I would hazard a guess this number is lot higher than the recommended mileage. (ie 12000 miles @7 mpg would be 1700 gal).. I do not use any water eliminating additives, just keep the tank full and I have used PRD as a fuel lubricant for the fuel pump, but even a few ounces of of 2 stroke oil would look after this ( Cummins says it is not required but a few onces gives me piece of mind) Check out the lubricity test results on the link below

Lubricity Additive Study Results - Diesel Place

My buddies just drive theirs until they notice sluggish performance and then they chang it. I think as your UA has two filters and the one on the engine has just been changed I would just change the easy access one every 12,000 miles. PS I have never noticed any signicant water in my trap. Another thing I do is I never run the coach below a 1/4 tank to ensue any junk is not picked up from the bottom of tank.

If you have no records on the Allisson Transmission I would have it done both filters and oil, It should be done every 25,000 miles if it running Mercon III /IV. Have your rad flushed and the coolant changed, Big bucks to replace the rad. Make sure you have the coolant tested with the Cummins' test strips at every oil change. The coolant filter is right next to the oil filter drivers side every 15,000 miles. Make sure you use the right filter with the correct DCA DCA 4 is the the one you normally use, this will depend on the age of the coolant. PS If the coolant is OK you can add DCA to bring it up to the correct PH. Pull your air dumps and while some one is doing this with you put your hand in the discharge if their is any moisture you will probably need to replace the dissident cartridge in the air system (My coach has 65,000 miles and I just changed mine, because the manual says every 24 months and mine had never been changed) again piece of mine as water in air brakes is an extremely expensive repair

You can take an oil sample from the the engine and transmission and send it Blackstone for analysis $23 each again they can tell you the condition of the oil In the case of the engine I would do this at the next change (and your report will give you an overal understanding of the wear on the engine, contaniment; on the transmission if it needs changing This is a lot cheaper than the $300 oil change. Here is a link to Blackstone

Blackstone Labs

Hope the foregoing is helpful

 

[ULTFREQCCA]

rowesort -

Thanks for all the info - Terrific stuff - had my Dissicant air filter changed last month - also for peace of mind! The coolant looks really new - very green so I think it probably has been changed quite recently! Will check filter....now that I know where to look!

While I have your attention...hahahaha Have you ever weighed your coach - does the '02 have the same Tuthill 12,000 lb front axle as my '01? If you have, what where the results - I think I'm light and seem to have a tough job tracking down scales locally.

Also, have you ever had ground problems - I have and have fixed a few, but I think I have a few more and would appreciate any info as to where to look before I start tracking down the Gremlins!
Oh, also, does your "One Place" show your amp draw when you are connected to 50amp service - mine only shows amps when on 30 amp service or less, mine also works when the generator is running!

Also will be changing my shocks to Koni's - the front is harsh over the bumps, potholes etc. I read a lot about them and they appear to be the way to go!
Have you done anything to the suspension?

Sorry for all the Questions, but there aren't that many U/A & U/F owners around to share info, and Winnebago didn't make them long enough to get any real good history!

Thanks Again,
Gary

 

[rowesort]

I have the 12,000 lb GVW IFS front suspension, Typically weighs in around 10,800lbs frt and 19,400lbs rear fully loaded water fuel and 6 months of stuff. Carrying Capacity is about 5,000 lbs so say 4,000 after water and fuel. I run the H rated Michelin XZA3 tires 95 lbs verses the 90 lbs recommended and the rear at 90 lbs vs 85 lb recommend for these weights. These tires actually run less pressure than the XZA2 I replaced. I have the original shocks and do not notice a rough ride. I would suspect your tire pressure and less likely your air ride settings (do not know anything about the latter but have read some postings on this site with respect to same

Here is a web site you should see

Michelin North America RV Videos and Demos Page

Your coach I believe has only 1 slide and you may not have the H rated tires so check this out G rated run a higher tire pressure than H for the same weightIf you use my air pressure you will be OK

Yes my "one Stop" display panel is the same as yours.

Other than the dash lights flickering which is common on the UA coaches, I have hade no grounding problems. I did have considerable issues with my slide electrics at the pump assembly where I had a faulty connection at the pump motor Some one tighted the positive cable nut on the 12V pump motor with out holding the nut on the back side of the connection. I had to replace one of the numerous ground wires from the pump to the chassis as the insulation was burned off and had a short inside the fuse holder which was intermittent.

On the HWH jacks I always use automatic if I have a problem just retract the jacks and start over and it always corrects itself. Make sure when you park the front of your coach is level and or lower than the rear You should not be jacking the rear too high

Get the test strips from Cummins and have your anti freeze tested color is a good indicator but it does not mean that the PH is correct

Good Luck

Steve