Does a 2001 Winnebago Journey Fiberglass Roof Need Coating?

[ProMod guy]

Guys, question regarding my roof. I've taken very good care of my roof and was considering putting a coat of proper RV roof coating on it. It's a smooth fiberglass cap, does it even need to be coated if not damaged? I will seal off any areas needing touch up but wanted opinions on this. Not sure it would add life to it or just have something to eventually peel. Thanks for your help.

 

[Eagle5]

Hi ProMod guy,
Here is the sealant guide for your Journey. I do not believe you need to coat the fiberglass.

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/2001/01_p_sealant.pdf

Eagle5

 

[ProMod guy]

Thank you very much

 

[RayIN]

I agree with Eagle5, however, you must pay attention to the roof to gutter adhesive, it's the only thing holding the fiberglass to the sides. I totally redid that adhesive 6 yrs ago; 4 day job.
There is a spline in the bottom of the gutter, that actually holds the fiberglass in place. The adhesive insures the spline remains in place.

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Service/2010-10%20Roof%20to%20Sidewall%20Joint%20Sealing.pdf

 

[HiBanky]

The only coating the fiberglass on your roof should ever need is a coat of wax now and then. Scrub it first with a stiff brush and water to remove the chalky residue and then apply a thin coat of floor wax. Keep the wax off the sides and radius. It's very hard to clean off. I use ZEP floor wax once a year. If the RTV in the J channel , as shown in RayNI's post, is cracked, dig out all the old and reseal it with Manus-Bond. see this post

Others suggest different materials for both wax and J channel RTV.

 

[ProMod guy]

Great idea, the wax. It’s already in great shape. That’ll make the water run right off. Thanks everyone.

 

[JackK-WO]

Seeing this post tells me that I need to address an issue with my fiberglass roof on my 2018 Winnebago Sunstar. Not being observant, I backed into a tree branch that tore a 16" slit in the radiused corner of my roof. This relieved the tension in the curved portion and caused it to lift away from it's original shape at one of the voids shown in Ray's drawing. I am thinking of trimming the portion that has lifted, filling the void with expandable foam, shaping it to the original curve and re-fiberglass the area that was damaged. I wish I had a photo but the RV is in storage and is covered. Thanks for any help.

 

[VterBob]

I don't want to hijack this thread but I have a question that is related to this issue. I have a 2015 Itasca Sunstar. My roof seam is taped. The tape runs from about mid radius down into the drip rail. I do believe this is a factory job as the tape matches the color nearly perfectly and is applied as straight as an arrow the entire length. Here is my two part question, anybody else have or have seen this seam taped before? I am hesitant to peel the tape up to inspect the adhesive as the tape seems to be adhered very well. What's a guy to do?

 

[JackK-WO]

Interesting: I used Flex Tape to temporarily repair the tear in my roof. Damn strong stuff, I tried to take it off to replace it to be certain I would not have a leak. It was nearly impossible to remove and I ended putting another layer over the first. I doubt that this is the seam tape that VterBob is referring to.

 

[klook]

In repairing the slash, it will be difficult to hold the thin filon down in its original curve. I just fiberglassed in the hole from removing the dish and am going to do the same to the analog crank up antenna. It went well. But not curve to deal with.
If the tape is on that well and appears factory, I am not sure they ever did that, I would leave it alone. Tapes eventually fail but I plan to coat my whole roof and go right over the eternabond that has been applied at the front of my cap.