DC to DC Charger Install 2005 Winnebago Adventurer 33V

[Blue Bus-WO]

I’m trying to install a Victron Orion XS in a 2005 Adventurer 33V. I have all the parts basically consisting of (2) 314ah lifepo4 batteries, Victron Multiplus II 3000w 2x120, and a Victron Cerbo GX. I need a DC2DC due to battery bank size and I don’t plan on adding solar until next year. I don’t care about the boost/emergency start function as I carry a jump starter pack. I also don’t really care to install a switch to negative wire to turn on and off. I’m also getting rid of the OEM converter and the Multiplus will handle the charging. I’ve been looking everywhere for my exact setup and install of a dc 2 dc but no luck. I’ve read where some have deleted BIM but i have the older style, one battery disconnect relay and one solenoid. I’ll attach pics to show my existing stock setup. I have everything else planned out but this part is holding up my install and I sure don’t want to guess on this… I’d appreciate any help as to where in the line to install and whether I should delete the solenoid, or what would work best. Please ask me any questions if needed. Thanks and excuse my lousy pics, that’s all I have right now….

 

[Zoohelp]

Dc to dc input to starter battery with inline fuse. Output directly to house batteries.

 

[Bnystrom]

Your Adventurer wiring looks to be nearly identical to the wiring in our 2010 View. Check the Orion instructions for specifics and verify the current path at the boost solenoid with a voltmeter.
The DC-DC charger bypasses the boost solenoid and the the general wiring procedure is:

1. Disconnect the yellow trigger lead from the center post of the boost solenoid, to disable it. Insulate the wire terminal so it can't short to anything.
2. Connect the input lead to the DC-DC charger to the right post on the boost solenoid (the hot side from the chassis battery/alternator).
3. Connect the output lead from the DC-DC charger to the left post of the boost solenoid.
4. Connect the trigger lead for the DC-DC charger to an "engine-running" 12V source. In our View, I ran a lead from the "elec stair ignition" breaker. You should have something similar.

Additionally, you need to install a fuse or DC breaker in the output lead from the DC-DC charger, in a readily accessible location. There should already be a fuse in the line from the battery/alternator, but installing another one of the appropriate value is a good idea - check your Orion manual for the correct values.

If you change your mind about retaining the battery boost functionality, all that's required is a switch in the boost solenoid trigger lead to manually energize it when necessary.

 

[Mable2014]

Would this setup be the same if it were a BIM instead of a solenoid and a disconnect relay? My batteries have LiFePO4 BMS batteries. My rig is a 2014 Itasca Sunstar 27n. Thanks, Amy

 

[Bnystrom]

If you already have a lithium-compatible BIM, you don't need a DC-DC charger, as they serve the same function, but in different ways. A BIM cycles the charging with periods where is shuts it off to allow the alternator to cool. A DC-DC charger provides a steady charging current to the batteries, but limits it to whatever its spec is, typically 30-60A, depending on the model. A DC-DC charger is generally considered to be the superior option, but it's more expensive than a BIM.

If your BIM is not lithium-compatible, your least costly and easiest upgrade is to just change the BIM, as the wiring will be the same. If you decide go the DC-DC charger route, it would replace the BIM. I haven't done that job, so I can't advise you as to how to wire it, but there's bound to be YouTube videos on that subject.

 

[Mable2014]

Thank you Brian. I will search further on YouTube for the wiring info. I am also going to contact Precision Circuits Inc to see if the BIM is compatible.

 

[Bnystrom]

If it's the original BIM, it won't be lithium-compatible. What that means in practical terms is that the alternator will not be able to fully charge your batteries, as it doesn't supply enough voltage. There may be other considerations as well.

 

[Mable2014]

Thanks again, I went onto the BIM website and they do have a lithium compatible isolator, so I asked them if swapping it would work. Jus5 waiting for a response. Most likely not until Monday.