Dash A/C Blows Hot - 1999 Adventurer

levasseurjohn

Advanced Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2025
Posts
50
Location
Hernando, Florida
I just purchased a 1999 Adventurer / FORD with 15,500 miles. The AC blows hot. I check the freon and it was at 40. When running I can not hear the compressor clutch kicking in, probably bad capacitor. Now my problem is WHERE IS THE CAPACITOR?
 
I have the Workhorse chassis. Not sure if your cabin AC is similar. I have to pull the dog house to get a good look at the compressor to see if its engaging on the GM engine.

Not sure what you used to check pressure? I have manifold gauges. The compressor needs to be engaging to get working readings.

If you compressor isn't engaging I would find a diagram for your system and locate the low pressure switch. Pull the connector. Start the engine and put on MAX AC. Use paper clip or similar to jump the connector. If compressor kicks on you have low system charge and possible leak. Do not let it run long like this as the compressor could be damaged due to low charge.

Not sure what you mean by capacitor as I have never heard something like that referenced in the Cab AC system.

If you system has a vacuum system to control air flap and hot water flow through the heater/AC box. If so check all your vacuum lines for cracks. I had to replace my entire harness. The heater hose valve wasn't closing allowing hot anti-freeze to pass through heat box while AC was on. Also, in MAX AC mode the flap should close and recir inside air only. Check all this as it makes a big difference.

My system had a slow leak and I might have isolated it to the line seals where the line attach to the compressor. Pulled vacuum and it held. Charged system with new dryer and keeping an eye on it.
 
Good tips. The capacitor was me thinking of a home unit with electric motor. I will just bring it to the RV repair shop and pay through the nose, but it will be fixed.
 
I am one that hates to give up the money to have things fixed but then I also hate to waste time, effort and money on things that are too far above my training. Air conditioning is one of those things which I find has a lot of things which may seem very simple once we get down to the specific p[arts, but there are way too many of those parts to fail.
When I hear air is not cooling like it should, I know just enough to be dangerous at times!
I have a feeling you are correct in letting better trained people look at this one. Just due to the really large number of things that might make it not put out the cool air!

First we have to figure out if the problem is air equipment is not cooling it right or if it is cooling but the vents and mix controls are not letting that cool get to us!

Getting the cooling done is one thing but we also have to get the heat shut off to really get anything done!
And that alone can get into all the small points that we can spend a lot of time trying to chase down something as simple as a leak in a small part of the vacuum system that moves the controls!
A leak in a vacuum line can mean the flaps that control which way the air moves stop working. Or it may just be a funky flap movement that sticks? Then we need to stop the hot water going through the heater or we are trying to heat and cool at the same time and heat often wins that contest.
Just a lot of weird little things that most of us may not even know are in there, let alone how to fix them.

Bottom line is that I think you are making the right choice!
But I still hate to pay for that service!
 
One thing I can do, if I knew how, is to take off the dog house. I don't see any screws yet. The guy I purchased the RV from put down wood floors. I think he covered up the screws. What is the procedure to remove the engine cover? I am assuming there are screws around the bottom lip, which are covered up. The shop could spend a few hours cutting the floow back to expese the screws at $140 an hour. I work cheap.

If you could guide me in taking that cover off, I would be in your debt.
 
My dog house has a release in the center rear of the cover. I bought a T handle allen or hex tool to release it and keep it in the RV. Its hidden in the carpet. Up front near the dash are two Philips screws On the sides of the dog house cover. This is in my Workhorse so not sure if the Ford chassis is different.
 
You may be missing one of the most important things to know about RV! When things are new, reading the instructions is always a good idea!
So they may have lost all the bag of instructions that should come with the RV? Step one might need to be getting the owners manual and those are online here:
Second problem when we think to help is that we don't know exactly WHICH 99 Adventurer you have.
It's really hard to help when we don't know what you have!
which.jpg
 
I just purchased a 1999 Adventurer / FORD with 15,500 miles. The AC blows hot. I check the freon and it was at 40. When running I can not hear the compressor clutch kicking in, probably bad capacitor. Now my problem is WHERE IS THE CAPACITOR?
The dash air doesn't have a capacitor, if the clutch isn't engaging and the freon is reading OK then one of the pressure switches or the clutch has failed! Check for power at the pressure switch and clutch.
 
Check your vacuum hoses. Ford trucks are notorious for vacuum-related AC problems. Mine's inoperative because at least one vacuum hose rotted out under the hood.
 
Ford C35 Titan V10. One reply I had gave me a lot of valuable information with schematics of the entire wiring system. What I really need is a diagram showing which relay and fuse does what in the main engine fuse box under the hood. There is a small box under the main box with only 4 relays. On mine, the number 2 is missing and I am wondering if that is the AC which only blows cold.
 
What I really need is a diagram showing which relay and fuse does what in the main engine fuse box under the hood.
You need a Ford F53 Owner's Manual. There should be a fuse layout chart in the manual. Winnebago would not have such info - your motorhome is two things a Ford Chassis and a Winnebago House. So, when you want chassis fuses go to the chassis Owner's Manuals.
 
Ford C35 Titan V10.
I think you mean a Ford F53 Triton V10. And even though it's a 1999 Adventurer it is very likely the chassis is a 1998. Winnebago buys a bunch of chassis and stores them until they have everything to run a full line of RVs. So, many if not most of the times the chassis is one model year older than the motorhome.

You can run your VIN number on various online websites and it will give you all the info on your exact chassis details.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top