Converting a 2013 View/Navion 24J to LiFePO4 Batteries

Thread Summary

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Original Member Title: Hi all. Newish owner of a 2013 View/Navion 24J - Lithium Advice
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The member asked for first-hand advice on replacing lead-acid house batteries with LiFePO4 batteries in a 2013 View/Navion 24J. Members emphasized first identifying the exact RV wiring and existing equipment, then planning the converter, battery fitment, alternator charging, and monitoring as one system rather than rushing into a battery-only swap.

Several members agreed the likely upgrade path includes a lithium-capable converter or inverter/charger for shore power and generator charging...
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WonderWilli

New Member
Joined
May 21, 2026
Posts
2
Location
Peachland BC
I'm looking for advice on how to convert my lead acid house batteries to LiFePO4. What I've found so far on the web is a wee bit confusing so would really appreciate some first hand advice.
Thanks kindly!
 
I am only able to start the search and warn that it is not something to rush into as there are many different parts that need to work together as a single unit to get what you want. And knowing what you want is step one as it can be done in many differnet ways to get different levels of use when finished.
But the first set may be to know what you have as the Sprinter is the chassis the RV is built on, not the RV body on top!
But for that first step, this is the site to get to the wiring diagrams. Can you point to which you have?

It can be a trek and knowing what you have is step one to knowing where you want to go.
 
Hi and welcome.
In general you need to update your Converter to something that is capable of properly charging Lithium batteries. You'll find plenty of folks that say you don't really have to do that... but really you must.

Next you'll need to find batteries that fit the space under your stairs where your house battery lives. Plenty of people choose Epoch 300 amp hour or Vatrer 300 amp hour batteries, both seem to fit the space.

There are lots of YouTube videos on this topic and many for View/Navion Class Cs.

As you get further into this research you'll find that there are issues with the Alternator charging of your new battery when driving. Many disconnect the battery from alternator charging and install a DC to DC charger.

Can I also suggest you join and ask questions in one of the 3 large View/Navion Facebook Groups. tons of folks have done this upgrade in those pages.



 
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Thanks for your help! I've joined 1 FB group and that will be a good resource as well, but so far I think I understand whats needed; a new converter that will fully charge the Li batteries from the generator or shore power, the batteries themselves, and a DC to DC charger that runs off the alternator. Also maybe a shunt if the batteries do not have Bluetooth. Now I just need to figure how to wire all this, especially the DC to DC charger. I may be missing something?? Thanks again!
 
I second the Epoch 300 AH with built-in heater & Bluetooth. Just had one put in my '21 24d View. In my case, the Zamp solar controller has a lithium setting, as does the Xantrex 2000 watt inverter/charger. During this swap the dealer also found the engine-to-coach charger was burnt out so a new one is getting installed. I was fortunate that in '21 there was a lithium option.
You may already have discovered that Lithium batteries must be above 32 degrees F when charging, hence the heater option.
 
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Thanks for your help! I've joined 1 FB group and that will be a good resource as well, but so far I think I understand whats needed; a new converter that will fully charge the Li batteries from the generator or shore power, the batteries themselves, and a DC to DC charger that runs off the alternator. Also maybe a shunt if the batteries do not have Bluetooth. Now I just need to figure how to wire all this, especially the DC to DC charger. I may be missing something?? Thanks again!
You are about to be bombarded by folks hailing the size of their.... lithium package. 😀. But you are on the right track. Any group 24 battery should fit under the stairs, but measure first.
 
Thanks for your help! I've joined 1 FB group and that will be a good resource as well, but so far I think I understand whats needed; a new converter that will fully charge the Li batteries from the generator or shore power, the batteries themselves, and a DC to DC charger that runs off the alternator. Also maybe a shunt if the batteries do not have Bluetooth. Now I just need to figure how to wire all this, especially the DC to DC charger. I may be missing something?? Thanks again!
Exactly! I too am looking for wiring directions for a DC DC charger on my 2015 Navion 24v. Batteries are in.
 
Exactly! I too am looking for wiring directions for a DC DC charger on my 2015 Navion 24v. Batteries are in.
Once you decide on a DC-DC charger, go to the brand's website and download the owner's manual and/or installation instructions. The wiring for a DC-DC charger is not difficult, and here are basics in a nutshell:
  1. Disconnect the trigger wire for the factory boost solenoid under the passenger's seat.
  2. Connect the input wire from the DC-DC to the input side of the boost solenoid.
  3. Connect the output wire from the DC-DC charger to the output side of the boost solenoid.
  4. Connect the trigger wire for the DC-DC charger to an "engine running" 12v source. The breaker for "elec stair ignition" on the outside of the passenger's seat pedestal is a good source.
There will be some variation between brands and models. You also need to mount the DC-DC charger itself, which most people put under the passenger's seat, since that's where all the wiring is. Also, by disconnecting the trigger lead for the boost solenoid, you eliminate the "Battery Boost" function. It can be enabled by installing a switch to reconnect the trigger lead only if/when you need it, but that's completely optional.

For DC-DC chargers, Victron is more or less the quality standard of the industry and you can't go wrong with their equipment. It's not cheap, but you definitely get what you pay for.
I would avoid Renogy, as their quality is somewhat suspect. I've had issues with their 60A DC-DC charger and they weren't honest about whether it could be fixed or had to be replaced. They wanted me to buy a replacement for $200, when all I needed was $6 worth of fuses. I'm done with them.

As for where to buy, I really like InvertersRUs.com. The people are super helpful, they have a broad range of products, and their pricing is excellent, especially on Victron. If you happen to have a business, you can set up an account with them and get additional discounts. Great people.

BTW, I installed a pair of 300Ah SFK batteries and they've been great! The quaIity is outstanding, their service excellent, and their pricing is substantially better than Epoch. Unlike many other brands, SFK batteries are fully-serviceable, full featured (heaters, Bluetooth w/app, Victron comms) and are built in the USA. They're currently offering a 314Ah battery at a price that you can't beat for the level of quality.
 
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Once you decide on a DC-DC charger, go to the brand's website and download the owner's manual and/or installation instructions. The wiring for a DC-DC charger is not difficult, and here are basics in a nutshell:
  1. Disconnect the trigger wire for the factory boost solenoid under the passenger's seat.
  2. Connect the input wire from the DC-DC to the input side of the boost solenoid.
  3. Connect the output wire from the DC-DC charger to the output side of the boost solenoid.
  4. Connect the trigger wire for the DC-DC charger to an "engine running" 12v source. The breaker for "elec stair ignition" on the outside of the passenger's seat pedestal is a good source.
There will be some variation between brands and models. You also need to mount the DC-DC charger itself, which most people put under the passenger's seat, since that's where all the wiring is. Also, by disconnecting the trigger lead for the boost solenoid, you eliminate the "Battery Boost" function. It can be enabled by installing a switch to reconnect the trigger lead only if/when you need it, but that's completely optional.

For DC-DC chargers, Victron is more or less the quality standard of the industry and you can't go wrong with their equipment. It's not cheap, but you definitely get what you pay for.
I would avoid Renogy, as their quality is somewhat suspect. I've had issues with their 60A DC-DC charger and they weren't honest about whether it could be fixed or had to be replaced. They wanted me to buy a replacement for $200, when all I needed was $6 worth of fuses. I'm done with them.

As for where to buy, I really like InvertersRUs.com. The people are super helpful, they have a broad range of products, and their pricing is excellent, especially on Victron. If you happen to have a business, you can set up an account with them and get additional discounts. Great people.
Thank You Bnystrom! Best instructions I've seen yet, and enough to get me started!
 
Thank You Bnystrom! Best instructions I've seen yet, and enough to get me started!
I forgot to mention that you also need a source for cables, or the tools and materials to make your own. The latter requires:
  • wire, preferably 100% copper, stranded welding wire from a quality source like Windy Nation or Temco
  • lugs and heatshrink tubing from the same sources
  • cable cutters and a crimping tool - Temco also sells those
This is all available on Amazon, but be cautious of the low-end, no-name stuff there.
 
I forgot to mention that you also need a source for cables, or the tools and materials to make your own. The latter requires:
  • wire, preferably 100% copper, stranded welding wire from a quality source like Windy Nation or Temco
  • lugs and heatshrink tubing from the same sources
  • cable cutters and a crimping tool - Temco also sells those
This is all available on Amazon, but be cautious of the low-end, no-name stuff there.
Thanks again!
 

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