Chassis Battery Switch Not Working 2016 Itasca Solei 38R

[Morich]

Not spotting any thermistor in the parts list but do see the relay hiding in back that I think you have found and checked. One thought might be to look for wire ID on the wires to this socket for anything of value? They have a bad habit of using a name in one place and possibly changing to resister in another place in the info?

 

[wiz-WO]

Okay, so let me check that I'm still following correctly! Correct me if not straight!
You have power to the red cable of the chassis disconnect relay right side. But it doesn't get to the left side. That likely means the relay is latched in open setting! The fuse that blows is a different issue and I would deal with it after getting the relay working.
Like this, correct?

View attachment 1114616

I think both the chassis and coach disconnect relays are the same, so I marked up the better picture of the small drawing for the contacts in the relay. I think it is really the coach relay shown but will be like the chassis that we need to work.
View attachment 1114619
I read this drawing as A and B being the big lugs on each side that we want to have contacts close (engage) or open (disengage). Not sure which is A or B! Just that they need contact through this relay!
And to get them closed or open we have two sets of control leads I marked them as pins 1 (-) and pin 3 as positive for one move and 2 and 4 as the other move. Not sure which is engage and disengage, though!

Not sure if it matters, when I swapped the chassis relay for the coach relay the problem didn't change, so I don't think it's the relay itself. My next task will be to check the inputs to the chassis one (1, 2, 3, 4)

What type switch did you find at the disconnect switch? I'm guessing it may be double pole, double throw, so that it connects both positive and negative for engage or disengage? If you put a meter for voltage across 1 and 3 of the socket, not the plug on the relay, do you see power as the disconnect switch is pushed? First on one of the sets of wires ( 1+3 or 2=4?)
Just thinking it might seem odd to find it missing on both as they seem to show as two different circuits, but that is a guess! My thought is that we might expect to find one of those two sets to be good and the other set bad. That would explain why it is not making any sound as one switch position is already latched to that but the other doesn't make any noise because it doesn't get the signal!
View attachment 1114621
These two wires, TTY and TTZ are control wires from the disconnect switch to the chassis relay, if I'm following right! One to engage and the other to disengage the relay big contacts. I'm not spotting the negative side but that may be just missing it in 70+ lines to search!
But maybe this is a wire you have and that is where you mention thermister!
View attachment 1114622
But WHERE is thermister?
I will go back to parts and scan to see if it shows up in that list!

I haven't tried the above, but did find that there is no power coming into the chassis switch. I put my meter black lead on the N (ground) for the plug going into the switches, and then on each of the leads. I found the same for both switches, except I have 12.5V on the #3 of the coach but nothing on the chassis.

I also noticed something in the diagrams. I'm headed out to investigate.

 

[Morich]

I see them on the parts drawings but not much help other than they are all listed as the same. That may mean you could pull one to swap?

I have read a number of folks get good response to calls for info from Winnebago. I wonder if we are missing a big help when we don't ask?
Maybe they have the 12VDC chassis wiring schematic but just not posted? That would certainly be much better if we had some drawings that gives the wire by wire info to trace from the parts you are finding!!
They are online for before 2010 but not after, but I'm certain that the info has to be there somewhere!

OR? Maybe just an ask for how the power gets to the chassis disconnect switch from the right person would be great? Since you now have a reasonable idea of where and what, they could dig it out?

 

[wiz-WO]

AIAI? (Am I an Idiot?) !

My chassis battery is working! I talked to a mechanic at length about it last night, and he ask questions about the diagnostic procedure I had gone through. Each thing he thought it could be, I had tested. Finallly he suggested bypassing the battery latching relay/solenoid. I went out today after it stopped raining to do it a I realized I hadn't hooked up the chassis batteries. I did that, and it came on just fine. Of course now I'm not sure what the actual problem was. Could have been the relay I replaced.

Now I need to get the levelers working...more about that later.

 

[Morich]

I'm fine with admitting I was making a mistake! I'll do anything if it get it working!
And there IS some truth to the old saying? The only folks making mistakes are the ones who are actually WORKING!
So it's the price we pay for progress?
On the names, of solenoid, contactor, or relay? I read that the only difference is the shape and how it moves the contacts.
I had thought it was done just to confuse us all!


I'll give it an "A" if it gets you closer to done!!

 

[wiz-WO]

BTW, I found the three relays I highlighted in yellow a couple of posts up and you showed from the parts diagram. They were behind the switch panel, and also a 5-amp fuse. They weren't attached to anything, just hanging out on top of the rats nest of yellow wires. All three were just like the one I found back with the latching solenoids. I think I saw somewhere they were awning lockouts. I only have 1 awning, but there are two slide toppers. I'm going to start another thread about my levelers not working, which was my original problem.