Bunk wall covering button removal 2020 View 24V

WinniMN

Advanced Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2024
Posts
50
I need to get behind the paddded wall covering in the front and sides of the bunk. There are 3 pieces that are held in with padded buttons.
Could someone please help with guidance on how the buttons are removed? Before I start pulling on them I was hoping to know if I can reuse them or if they are a one time use deal.
Any insight into removing the panels would be appreciated.
I am chasing what sounds like flopping wires above my head.

2020 View V

Thank you
Bruce
 
Yes, you can remove them. They are pressure-pressed on, so it takes something thin and stiff under the edge of the button. I used a plastic scraper and a wide-blade screwdriver with the tip covered by a shop towel. It takes some doing, but it will come off. Once the button cover is off, there is a snap base that is secured in with a phillips screw.
 
Removing the side and front panels is easy, I removed these and two sections of the ceiling panels chasing leaks when on 2021V was new. Did not trust the dealer to do a good job. You may have a rain gutter style gutter under the side windows to catch any leaks. On our unit the drain lines were not connected but the leak was not in the windows anyway. It was on vertical seam connecting the super dome to the side wall. Good luck its not a fun job.
 
Thank you, that’s helpful.
Starting next week. camping this weekend!

Bruce
 
If you are chasing a leak, using a garden hose on low spray. Then soak a small area for 20 - 30 minutes or longer. Then stop and wait a hour or more so that any water that did get in will show on the inside. If or when I have another leak I will go with high volume air flowing in the RV while soaping up the outside. Pressure test method.
 
is it difficult to replace the side panels around the side windows in the bunk? I am not sure if i have to go that far, but is it a problem if i remove it around the window fram?

Bruce
 
The side panels are easy. The window frame is whole another story and a real PITA. If you remove the interior frame the window is held in place by the sealants on the outside. 2021V.
 
thank you for your help and I’m sorry to keep beating this poor old horse but. . .

this window frame
IMG_2684.JPG


seems to hold down the side panel.
IMG_2682.JPG


and is held in by a bunch of screws
IMG_2683.JPG


if I take out the screws will the frame come off with the panel?

And the window stays in because it is adhered from the outside like you said?

thanks again!

Bruce
 

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Yes, if you remove the interior window framework, the wall panel will come out. For the sake of caution, I would suggest taping the exterior side of the window to the sidewall and having someone on the outside holding the window while you remove the panel on the inside. None of us know how much sealant was used to install the window. One nudge too hard could push it out.
I've been through what you're trying to accomplish; you have to remove the side and front panels to get the ceiling panel to drop. Mine is a 2019 ym and slightly different overcab. Mine does have wires up above; a set of 12-volt for the marker/clearance lights and a coax for the radio antenna. However, they were secured in place quite well. I went up there to add insulation to the overcab area.
Also on my unit, there is an LED light strip on the front panel. If you have the same, those wires are crimped on; however, there was enough slack to lay the panel down on the bunk without needing to cut and resplice.

Bobby
 
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The issue I experienced when re-installing the interior window frames was getting the mounting holes to line up. As for the lighting in the bunk the feed wires are crimped so to remove the ceiling panel you will need cut the feeders Just throw some electrical tape or wire nuts on the leads. If you have a 120 volt outlet on the front wall, once you remove the mounting screws you should be able to pass the outlet thru the mounting opening.
 
well, that was a bust.
I was chasing a rattle coming from above my head. sounded like wires slapping agains the cap. There weren't any. What i DID find was that there were several brackets that came unglued that held the side panels in place.
I reglued them and reinforced the bond with fiberglass and epoxy.That worked well.
BUT, it did not solve the tapping noise. It still seems to be over my head and it still sounds like wires flopping around. It sounds very close. Happens on a bumpy road.
so, now i will consider removing the trim that covers the space between the floor of the bunk and the headliner of the cab. I looks like there is about a 4” space. I don’t know what is in there, but i am thinking it will get me a view of what is above my head above the headliner.
If anyone has any insight, I would like to hear it.

Thank
Bruce
 
If anyone has any insight, I would like to hear it.

Thank
Bruce
I was going to suggest this from the start but......
Does your over-cab bed mattress fold? If so, fold it the next time you take a trip; if not, remove it and park it in the back between the beds.
The mattress sits on a superstructure covered with an ABS molded shell (at least in my model). It could be the weight of the mattress bouncing on the ABS and making that pop against the metal structure. Just a guess.

Bobby
 
Have you dropper the panel on the ceiling center console? It open with a credit card pushing up towards the center. Not sure you will find anything in there flopping around either. The Mercedes wiring that I encountered was well place with the connectors wrapped in foam.
 
Well, this is not going as planned.
We drove with the mattress in the bunk flipped forward, no change. The sound seems to come from the top left corner above the windshield.
I opened the space between the headliner in the cab and the sheetmetal of the chassis to look for something loose, nothing. Very tight in there. Was not able to actually remove the headliner, just used a borescope to look around in the space. Is the headliner removable?
We found this.
not sure what my next steps are.

Thank you for all the insights
Bruce
 

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