Blue Ox tow bar arms will not stay parked upright

[YoYoDaddyOhMy]

I have a Blue Ox tow bar that does not "stand up" or catch in the "lean" position to either side without falling down when not connected and towing. Almost broke my foot recently when it dropped on it while disconnecting from Jeep. It appears the slot in the main bar should catch the pin when leaning to either side, yet it will not, Does this appear correct and is anyone else having this issue.
Suggestions welcome to fix this issue!!

 

[Morich]

Quick guess is that there is a bolt that is either too tight or it may just be a bit corroded/stuck?
A different way to tell it might be to think of the two bars you connect to the tow car as your two arms sticking out from the RV rear? Those two arms need to be able to move up and down as the road surface changes.
Look at it as being the same as us standing at the rear of the RV, with arms extended and spread out sideways to grip the front of the bar on the car.
As we drive the car may go down on one side or the RV twist up. As the car shifts in relation to the RV, we need several points to be able to rotate. If you stand and extend your arms as if gripping the front of the car, it may help to explain what I struggle to describe?
When the bar on the car is solid and one side goes up and the other side down, we first find our wrist has to rotate to meet that move. Try raising one arm as your fist grips the bar? See how your wrist has to rotate as the solid bar moves? That is the first connection, but the one which is not working seems to be where your arms meet your shoulders! If you hold a broom stick. etc. and try this move, you may note that your shoulders also shift as the bar moves?

That's the goofy way I think of it but the problem is that the "shoulders" on the tow bar are not moving as they should!

That large"pin" should stay in place while the notch moves left/right to snag and hold the bar when going to either side, instead of staying in the center and allowing the bar to move down to the ground.
Lube, loosen or free up all the little joints and make the pin fit intot he notch when holding some position but NOT when towing!
Note that the pin moves out and away from the notch when ready to tow? To free it up, try putting the bar on the RV and extend the arms as if hitching, then move the arms up and down, forcing the plate with the pin to rotate
I see fressh oil on one but the one next to it needs freeed up!

 

[YoYoDaddyOhMy]

Quick guess is that there is a bolt that is either too tight or it may just be a bit corroded/stuck?
A different way to tell it might be to think of the two bars you connect to the tow car as your two arms sticking out from the RV rear? Those two arms need to be able to move up and down as the road surface changes.
Look at it as being the same as us standing at the rear of the RV, with arms extended and spread out sideways to grip the front of the bar on the car.
As we drive the car may go down on one side or the RV twist up. As the car shifts in relation to the RV, we need several points to be able to rotate. If you stand and extend your arms as if gripping the front of the car, it may help to explain what I struggle to describe?
When the bar on the car is solid and one side goes up and the other side down, we first find our wrist has to rotate to meet that move. Try raising one arm as your fist grips the bar? See how your wrist has to rotate as the solid bar moves? That is the first connection, but the one which is not working seems to be where your arms meet your shoulders! If you hold a broom stick. etc. and try this move, you may note that your shoulders also shift as the bar moves?
View attachment 2478817
That's the goofy way I think of it but the problem is that the "shoulders" on the tow bar are not moving as they should!
View attachment 2478819
That large"pin" should stay in place while the notch moves left/right to snag and hold the bar when going to either side, instead of staying in the center and allowing the bar to move down to the ground.
Lube, loosen or free up all the little joints and make the pin fit intot he notch when holding some position but NOT when towing!
Note that the pin moves out and away from the notch when ready to tow? To free it up, try putting the bar on the RV and extend the arms as if hitching, then move the arms up and down, forcing the plate with the pin to rotate
I see fressh oil on one but the one next to it needs freeed up!

I understand completely how it is supposed to work. Just like you stated. My video doesn't show it very well, but my problem is that the "large pin" sits in the notch fine if the arms are held in the upright position. It is only when rotating the arms to either side, open/closed, in/out, or up/down that the flat portion of the rounded frame of the arms hits/slides against the frame, making the pin rotate up and outside the slot. It will NOT go into the slot any kind of way. See edited photo. The yellow marks show the problem and strike area on frame. It tows perfectly, just doesn't hold the arms up when not towing.
I purchased it new and already assembled but thought maybe it was assembled wrong. I have looked at it from every angle and cannot figure out how it can work properly. I considered removing all the bolts and reassembling from scratch, but just cannot envision how to reassemble it any other way to correct it. STUMPED!

 

[Morich]

I think I see but stuill may be missing the point but suggest try this?
whn the arms are down level with the ground, try spreading them out sideways and then lift up on one and push down on the other? Having them spread out should give you lots more leverage to force the part with the pin to move left/ right in the slot?
I think the main problem is that the plate the pin is in, may be stuck (bound up?) on the big bolt!
In the first pictute, See that white washer shape under the red circle I drew? I think that is meant to be something to keep the two metal pieces from wearing each other when they move.
When the arms are up, the pin is horizontal, but when the arms are down/parallel to ground, the pin is then pointed up, correct? What I think is needed is to get the joint between the black plate holding the pin to move/rotate on that big bolt holding it on the square tube.
That plate and pin should move so that the pin can swing left and right/ It looks like right now the pin moves to point up when the arms are down and then point toward the hitch ball when they arms are lived. But the are " frozen" and the pin should stat pointed toward the ball but move left right in that slot!
That point that got no oil in the picture needs to slide to let the arms and pin move?

Maybe just not been used enough recently on bad roads? I think it will break itself loose if you can find a good rough road where the car tlt one way when the RV tilts the other? But it should be loose enough to let you swing the arms up to point to the sky and then rotate both arms down to near flat to park them! Pin has to move left right in slot to "park" them?
That's my story and I'm sticking to it??
But there are many times when I've missed on my guesses, so try it and if I'm wrong, I'm used to being there and no harm done!





"

 

[YoYoDaddyOhMy]

maybe better pics and video...

 

[HiBanky]

If you look down the end of the square tube you will see a nut. It is screwed onto the bolt that Morich is showing in his picture. It needs to be loosened enough to allow the U shaped part to rotate. Be careful !!! It is probably a Nylock nut and should be replace if loosened or put a drop of blue Loctite on the treads. This bolt holds the hole assembly together. You can Imagine what would happen if it unscrews itself.
You may be able to work the bars back and forth to free it up without turning the nut.

 

[Morich]

Went to a set of directions. I don't know which model you have but this seems to confirm what is needed, but not how to get it to do what we want!

So I think we are saying the right things need to happen but HOW to get it done is the question!
I have a hard time thinking the bolt has been that tight to keep it from moving if it is not really getting some rust or something like that to stop it.
Some ideas that I would try as I tend to like to not get involved with actually loosening a bolt that I need to stay forever!
Getting enough leverage to break it loose without breaking the vise off the workbench may be one thought!!
I've never had one that was all that tight but what about putting it on the RV and let that really good strong welded attachmnet take any abuse you put on it? I first thought of maybe trying to get a pipe wrench on that U-shaped part where the arms attach but then if you have the arms folded up, with the bar on the RV, you really have two good long arms to give lots of leverage when you try to force the arms left or right!
Got any penetrating oil, etc. to let it soak that joint overnight?
But these directions seem to match what I expect and it gets down to how to move that black "C" shaped part on the bolt!
Mine were just stiff but okay to move and not so loose that it would not stay in most any position I left it. I never drove with it, other than fully down with the pin in the slot.
No experience with one that was that hard to move, though!
Small "funny" that I found? Those white washers are called "self lubricating" !!
Not exactly what you are finding!

 

[YoYoDaddyOhMy]

I think I see but stuill may be missing the point but suggest try this?
whn the arms are down level with the ground, try spreading them out sideways and then lift up on one and push down on the other? Having them spread out should give you lots more leverage to force the part with the pin to move left/ right in the slot?
I think the main problem is that the plate the pin is in, may be stuck (bound up?) on the big bolt!
In the first pictute, See that white washer shape under the red circle I drew? I think that is meant to be something to keep the two metal pieces from wearing each other when they move.
When the arms are up, the pin is horizontal, but when the arms are down/parallel to ground, the pin is then pointed up, correct? What I think is needed is to get the joint between the black plate holding the pin to move/rotate on that big bolt holding it on the square tube.
That plate and pin should move so that the pin can swing left and right/ It looks like right now the pin moves to point up when the arms are down and then point toward the hitch ball when they arms are lived. But the are " frozen" and the pin should stat pointed toward the ball but move left right in that slot!
That point that got no oil in the picture needs to slide to let the arms and pin move?
View attachment 2479046
Maybe just not been used enough recently on bad roads? I think it will break itself loose if you can find a good rough road where the car tlt one way when the RV tilts the other? But it should be loose enough to let you swing the arms up to point to the sky and then rotate both arms down to near flat to park them! Pin has to move left right in slot to "park" them?
That's my story and I'm sticking to it??
But there are many times when I've missed on my guesses, so try it and if I'm wrong, I'm used to being there and no harm done!




YOU'VE GOT IT NOW! NOW THAT I KNOW THAT BIG BOLT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE TIOGHT, I WILL TRY TO LOOSEN IT AND SEE IF THAT DOES IT... THAT SOUNDS RIGHT! Thanks for your help, again!!!

Went to a set of directions. I don't know which model you have but this seems to confirm what is needed, but not how to get it to do what we want!
View attachment 2479076
So I think we are saying the right things need to happen but HOW to get it done is the question!
I have a hard time thinking the bolt has been that tight to keep it from moving if it is not really getting some rust or something like that to stop it.
Some ideas that I would try as I tend to like to not get involved with actually loosening a bolt that I need to stay forever!
Getting enough leverage to break it loose without breaking the vise off the workbench may be one thought!!
I've never had one that was all that tight but what about putting it on the RV and let that really good strong welded attachmnet take any abuse you put on it? I first thought of maybe trying to get a pipe wrench on that U-shaped part where the arms attach but then if you have the arms folded up, with the bar on the RV, you really have two good long arms to give lots of leverage when you try to force the arms left or right!
Got any penetrating oil, etc. to let it soak that joint overnight?
But these directions seem to match what I expect and it gets down to how to move that black "C" shaped part on the bolt!
Mine were just stiff but okay to move and not so loose that it would not stay in most any position I left it. I never drove with it, other than fully down with the pin in the slot.
No experience with one that was that hard to move, though!
Small "funny" that I found? Those white washers are called "self lubricating" !!
Not exactly what you are finding!

Will definitely put back on RV and do as you instructed. This is the solution that I KNEW existed, but didn't know exactly how. THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR EXPERT HELP!!

 

[HiBanky]

If you look down the end of the square tube you will see a nut. It is screwed onto the bolt that Morich is showing in his picture. It needs to be loosened enough to allow the U shaped part to rotate. Be careful !!! It is probably a Nylock nut and should be replace if loosened or put a drop of blue Loctite on the treads. This bolt holds the hole assembly together. You can Imagine what would happen if it unscrews itself.
You may be able to work the bars back and forth to free it up without turning the nut.

Here are some pics to help visualize. The Bolt is 1 1/8 and the Nut is 1 1/16. It takes two big wrenches and a long extension.

 

[YoYoDaddyOhMy]

SUCCESS!!! Just as you yall stated. YOU GUYS ROCK!!
Thanks so much!!
This website has proven to be the VERY BEST RESOURCE for DIY'ers, for sure!!!

 

[HiBanky]

SUCCESS!!! Just as you yall stated. YOU GUYS ROCK!!
Thanks so much!!
This website has proven to be the VERY BEST RESOURCE for DIY'ers, for sure!!!

So, did you loosen the bolt or just lean on it and push harder?

 

[Morich]

I think it may be getting the two arms together instead of one each direction?

 

[YoYoDaddyOhMy]

So, did you loosen the bolt or just lean on it and push harder?

Sprayed some Kwiki KquikLube on that washed under big bolt, then brute force to make it swivel. Leaving the bolt as is.

 

[DancinCampers]

If you get near Pender, NE. Blue Ox has a campground, you can schedule maintenance on your towbar. They will come out to your rig and overhaul. If I remember the CG was free.

 

[FIRE UP]

Well OP,
While it seems you've conquered your issue. And while I didn't read every word of every answer, I have plenty of experience with this type of mechanism in this type of tow bar. What I didn't read in most if not all of your answers was/is, there are TWO NUTS inside that tube!!!!!!!!! When that section of the tow bar is assembled, you have a bolt, a washer, the rotational "U" shaped component, another washer (which could be metal or a form of HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) plastic), all of which is fed through the hold in the end of the 2" x 2" square tube.

The first item that enters that square tube is another washer, typically metal or steel. Then, in the newer models of that model tow bar, a large square piece of steel, which is drilled and tapped to the same threads of the bolt mentioned earlier, and is sized (albeit a bit on the loose side) to fit inside that tube WITHOUT the ability to rotate and is threaded onto the threads of the bolt. That square nut, bolt and U-shaped component is all tightened to a given amount/torque that will allow for that U-shaped piece to ROTATE FREELY but not loosely!!!!!

Then, THEN, there is a NYLOC nut, the same threads as the bolt, slid down the tube and threaded onto the bolt until it rides up against the square nut/steel piece. THAT NUT is what is then tightened very tight, to act as a lock nut against the square nut to keep that square nut from "auto-loosening" on its own as the tow bar is used in towing a vehicle. With the amount of torque that's applied to the tow bar while towing, it's a given that many, if not all sections of those tow bars, at least the pivotal ones, do AND WILL loosen over time.

From the pics and at least one video I watched, it appears that bolt, the square nut and lock nut are all WAAAAAAAY TOOOOOOOO TIGHT!!! Yes, you can spray some lube in or around the pivotal section and it might loosen for a short time but, when that lube dries up, and it will, you'll be right back to square one, TOO TIGHT. So, the correct approach to PERMENENTLY cure this issue is to disassemble that section, clean everything up, lube items with appropriate grease, and reassemble it. Then tighten the square nut, washers, bolt and u-section to a point where there's good resistance but not overly. Then, re-install the Nyloc nut and tighten it up against the square nut good and snug. THEN, THEN, THEN you';ll now have a properly working rotational section which will pivot the way IT'S SUPPOSED TO and that pin will automatically enter the right or left slot easily, DONE!
Scott

P.S. In the pics below, you'll see that square piece of steel/nut. On mine, upon a random inspection, I found it was cracked. Well, Blue Ox being Blue Ox, DOES NOT sell just that part! Soooo, I took it upon myself to rebuild/weld that crack back to its original integrity. I also found that square nut/steel to be too loose for my standards so, I ended up adding metal to all four sides to tighten things up some. Now, that nut/steel is a very close fit inside that square tube and is better than new.

 

[HiBanky]

So the Nyloc nut is just a jam nut. Makes sense. The cracked square nut is kind of scary.

 

[FIRE UP]

So the Nyloc nut is just a jam nut. Makes sense. The cracked square nut is kind of scary.

Roger that Sir, the Nyloc is a jam nut. The big square nut does have a couple of duties here. 1st, it's used to tighten the joint between the two components. Second, while it's there to tighten and adjust joint resistance and integrity, it's 2nd job is to primarily take the brunt force of the weight of the toad. When you think about it, when you take off from a dead stop, and let's say your toad weighs whatever, maybe say, 4,000 lbs, that square nut in reality, is taking all that pull. It does have a little help from the Nyloc jam nut but by and large, it's the square nut that's taking the hit or pull I should say.

Yes, that crack was a bit of concern when I found it. But, I've been a fabricator/welder for decades and decades. I did make an effort to actually find a replacement but as stated, Blue Ox does not sell parts like that, no matter how important they are in the operation. Sooooo, with all that crap being said, I had/have all the tools and equipment to completely chamfer that crack, right down to the threads from the outside in a V-shaped pattern. I had to be careful when I approached the internal threads as I don't have a tap that large to re-cut those threads. I'd have bought one if needed.

I then proceeded to weld it all back up to repair that crack. When done, I could have left it all that way and used it in its repaired state. But, I wasn't satisfied with the excessive side clearance on all four sides between it and the inside of the square tube. So, I just happened to have what was needed to augment the sides to decrease the clearance. I cut four pieces, tack welded them in place, cleaned it all up, and vuuuualllla, we have a better than brand new piece, at least in my opinion.
Scott