Bad weight readings and Anderson Hitch problems

[BingoFuel]

Stopped by a Loves to weigh my setup prior to pulling into the campground. Weight ticket showed 3500 steer, 5700 drive, 2000 trailer axle. For reference, rig is GVWR 5500, truck GVWR 7100. I am exceeding rear GAWR by 1600lbs. Also noticed my Anderson hitch brackets (bottom) are getting pulled forward on the frame of the trailer every time I tow.

The weight readings seem erroneous, I don’t know how I could possibly be putting 60% of the trailer weight on the tongue. I’m going to try to distribute more weight onto the trailer axle and try to get the Anderson hitch working right. I think I’m not torquing it enough at the bracket which is maybe resulting in the sliding.

Any help is appreciated, I’ll try to get some pictures out.

 

[MicroMinnie-WO]

Hey- Weld the outside bracket to the frame after you set them back in the right spot.
tack it on only, don’t solid weld through

Many andersen wdh owners do it because of the same issue, the set/hold screw damages the frame. i’d weld it.

Don’t recommend clamping more than 60-70LBS

 

[MicroMinnie-WO]

Here’s my setup

 

[BingoFuel]

Nice, I’ll have to ask around to get that done then

 

[mfouts]

Stopped by a Loves to weigh my setup prior to pulling into the campground. Weight ticket showed 3500 steer, 5700 drive, 2000 trailer axle. For reference, rig is GVWR 5500, truck GVWR 7100. I am exceeding rear GAWR by 1600lbs. Also noticed my Anderson hitch brackets (bottom) are getting pulled forward on the frame of the trailer every time I tow.

The weight readings seem erroneous, I don’t know how I could possibly be putting 60% of the trailer weight on the tongue. I’m going to try to distribute more weight onto the trailer axle and try to get the Anderson hitch working right. I think I’m not torquing it enough at the bracket which is maybe resulting in the sliding.

Any is appreciated, I’ll try to get some pictures out.

I do feel that the numbers are incorrect, I have a similar set up but have not weighed yet. The factory weight of you ram is only about 5500 lbs so it looks like maybe they gave you the total of your steer and drive. Not sure how they came up with the trailer weight, I think the factory weight is 4500 lbs so all seems out of wack. May need to start over again.

other than the sliding issue are you happy with the Anderson when towing?
Picking up a Ram limited on tuesday and thinking about there hitch.

 

[BingoFuel]

Yeah definitely need to start over, lol. I can’t really answer about the Anderson Hitch, because I’ve never towed with anything else. But from the start I’ve had issues, it’s basically never worked. Brackets pulled off the frame from the bottom each time, sometimes resulting in one side being completely loose and the other quite tight.

There are also very differing procedures when it comes to installation. The written instructions were pretty clear, but of course resulted in my brackets pulling off and my weights being wrong. The Anderson youtube video instructions had a different recommendation for tightening (4 full rotations rather than 3 or 4 threads per manual).

It’s also pretty annoying that you have to fix the triangle plate if it ever gets too far out of alignment, which has been every time for me. So, a lot of problems, some of which have been my fault for buying it last minute and trying to install it myself at the dealership. Also, the twist screw that you put into the bracket that’s pointed, well, one of mine is stuck in the bracket now. However, it’s possible I have the wrong bracket size, as the bottom most hole on my brackets sit about an inch below the trailer frame. Previous owner of the hitch had same truck and rig but had no idea about how any of it worked, just had it installed.

I think I would have to take it to an expert for installation to feel confident it actually works, unless my next weight tickets are better.

 

[MicroMinnie-WO]

Towed a few times with it and has been flawless
Welding the brackets is the way to go, a 10 minute job.
you need to start with that. cleanup/sand off the brackets put them where they need to be and find a weld shop. costs you $20. The brackets moving is the most discussed complaint/issue about this WDH.

The bracket being not centered with locking pin is easy. I always loosen the nuts anyways.

After all you need to show about 3 or 4 threads before you lower the weight on ball - so you know already exactly where to be on both sides, no guessing.

Just tighten the nut on the side that will straighten the plate enough to get locking pin in it’s off. then do other side until 3 - 4 threads show, then lower weight on ball. key is amount of threads showing. don’’t worry about how straight it looks. it will straighten out.

I’ve found this the fastest way. takes 1 minute to do it and works even if car is on an angle or not quite level.

I did not measure weight when I set this up, I strictly used fender height measurements. I’m at about 1/4 inch of where I was when unloaded. good enough for me.

Post a picture of your bracket install.

 

[MicroMinnie-WO]

With and without pic

 

[tinglett]

Interesting...I can't say I've ever had my brackets slide, and the setup looks pretty much identical to yours. I assume the bracket is wedged so the upper bolt is pushing on the frame tilted toward the rear, and the lower bolt is pushing against the frame tilted toward the front? I ask because the pic a few posts back looks like the bracket is very vertical, but I think it's just the camera playing tricks. If the bracket isn't tilted I'm sure it won't work. Those upper/lower bolts do "squeeze" the frame.

I'm also not seeing the set screw. Below is a photo of my setup. The set screw is right below the upper bolt.

 

[tinglett]

Oh, I see. I'm confusing the OPs post with MicroMinnie. Well, there's a pic for you anyway . Maybe you'll spot something.

 

[BarchettA]

Personally, I dont think it is a good idea to weld on the frame. I think we are talking about multiple models here but I just got off the phone re a micro minnie 1708fb im in the process of purchasing and when I mentioned slipping they said they would recommend drilling holes for the pointed set bolts. Once you do that, and it wont take a very wide hole, and set the bolt it isnt going to move.

I dont know the type of steel used on various models but if there is any heat treatment welding can cause weak points. Just my opinion, dont want a war started, I just wouldnt feel comfortable welding on a frame if I can avoid it with a few small holes.

Im told I should get a 3303 which is an 8" riser.. but it is out of stock everywhere I look.. I dont know if I need 8".. Im just a 2wd f-150 2016.. Im guessing 4" would do it but he said Id just have more flexibility with the 8".

EDIT: I forgot I did go with a taller tire.. so maybe I do need a 8".. probably a bad idea to go with taller tires because that reduces my rear end ratio.. sigh.. I think we all spend too much time and money trying to make our trucks look "cool".

 

[tinglett]

I went with an 8" riser, and then later raised the TT and now only need a 4". But in hindsight, I think the 8" is better to have. It'll work on future vehicles, etc, and there's certainly no harm in having it.

And just to pile on about welding, I already have moved mine once to allow clearance for other stuff I'm wanting to mount on the trailer tongue. I suppose if you weld you can later cut if off, but drilling that little hole for the setscrew is a little less invasive. I'll keep an eye on mine and if it ever moves I'll be doing that. Thanks for the idea!

 

[Trax]

Im told I should get a 3303 which is an 8" riser.. but it is out of stock everywhere I look.. I dont know if I need 8".. Im just a 2wd f-150 2016.. Im guessing 4" would do it but he said Id just have more flexibility with the 8".

I bought my Andersen hitch from Hitchrite and had a great experience with them. They show the 3303 in stock but as a 6” drop/rise. 3380 is the 8” drop/rise and the one I bought from them. Also appears to be in stock.

 

[rbarbot2]

You Sir are 100% RIGHT! If you drill a small hole where the tip of the set screw is going, you aren’t going to have any slippage, and welding is unnecessary. The bottom of the bracket acts as a lever, the more tension put on that chain is just going to tighten the bracket even more.

 

[BarchettA]

I bought my Andersen hitch from Hitchrite and had a great experience with them. They show the 3303 in stock but as a 6” drop/rise. 3380 is the 8” drop/rise and the one I bought from them. Also appears to be in stock.

I went to the hitchrite site.. they dont even list a 303 8". I may just have to get a 4" and say a little prayer.

 

[mfouts]

I have a 22 ram limited and i went with the 4", even dropped it down 1 hole from the top, may go back up though.

 

[Trax]

https://hitchrite.com/product/andersen-hitches-3380/

Currently showing 10 in stock.

 

[mfouts]

I bought mine from Tweetys, they have an additional 10% off.
https://tweetys.com/3350-no-sway-weight-distribution-hitch.aspx

 

[BingoFuel]

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies. I just moved recently and had work stuff ramp up a bit, getting settled in and ready to figure out the hitch. FWIW, even with the hitch not working during my -8 hour trip, it still towed pretty well. Brackets immediately moved as I pulled out. Here are the photos. They show the brackets after the chain pulled them off. Notice the damage from the set screw.

Taking some measurements, the winnie frame is 5”, bracket is 8”(straight side only), so I’m not sure if there is a sizing issue there. I also never got the drop/rise hitch problem figured out. My truck’s receiver is 17” off the ground, but the winnie tongue sits a whopping 28” off the ground. Figure I need a 12” drop/rise hitch

My plan is to get them welded this week, hope that works, I’ll keep y’all updated. Thanks!

 

[mfouts]

I believe if possible your bottom bolt needs to be in next hole up. That will limit pivot and straighten chain out a bit. I've been on 4 trips now maybe 2000 miles or more and nothing like that. I am running about the same set up as you. I notice you tension nuts are not the same and I think they should be. Before you weld anything make sure you set up is correct.