26-Yr Old Motorhome… Timebomb or Not?

[Kameron S]

Hey all. New here…and new to Winnies. I’ve had a couple of Roadtreks but the beast I’m considering buying is a 1999 37’ gas Adventurer. 106k miles. Great leather, well cared for interior and the usual exterior. The current owner (individual) bought it 4 years ago for $22k and put $6,800 in it. Admittedly he paid too much. Some upgrades include a tankless water heater, new floor/linoleum and leather couch.

I had it inspected today. I’ve only spoken on the phone with the inspector and will go tomorrow to do the in-person. I told him if the roof was soft, there’s no need for me to come down and I would just tell the owner “I’ll pass and he can go pick it up.” Here’s what the inspector told me. “It has the usual stuff for a 25 year old RV. The roof is soft over the bathroom but it’s not terrible. I’ve seen worse. It needs scraping and sealing properly. The last person did an DIY roof and didn’t know what they were doing. There’s silicone up there and that’s a no-no. It’s delaminating on the driver’s rear side. It’s not terrible but nevertheless. This is a 50 amp rig and someone jerryrigged the power cord to 30 amp. Not a huge deal and an easy fix….”

The inspector said he can repair the roof the right way for $600-most of which is labor. He said ideally the entire roof could be done but overall it’s pretty good, as is the entire rig.

There were other minor things that I’m not concerned with. My intent is to live in this for a year then sell it. I will not be traveling in it. I live in Utah-lots of snow.

1) Can the roof REALLY be fixed and not leak? (it’s had a previous leak, hence the DIY yourself roof repair)
2) This rig having a “basement” and pipes not exposed, will this rig make it thru winter here if I insulate properly? Meaning will pipes freeze?
3) The Roadtreks I had were listed at 3x the book value-so is this Winnie.He’s asking $10k but after the inspection there's no way I’m giving him that much. I’m guessing book values don’t really apply to some Rv's. They don’t to 3rd gen 4Runners!
4) Is delaminating a big issue?

I would like to hear multiple opinions if anyone would care to comment. Thanks in advance.

 

[creativepart]

First, I’d get a second opinion from a better inspector. From your description it doesn’t sound like you got that professional of an inspection the first time.

This and every other motorhome or Trailer is susceptible to freezing pipes if used during an Utah winter. RVs are meant to be chasing 70 degree weather.

There’s a huge difference between a Roadtec Van and a 37’ motorhome. I don’t think you can compare the two. The Roadtec is built on a fully enclosed Van chassis. The motorhome is a box built on top of some rails with wheels.

 

[Kameron S]

Thank you. I understand all of that. The inspector has an extensive check off list but I didn’t feel it necessary to list that here. Can the roof be sealed properly? Is delaminating an issue?

 

[Morich]

99? Was that a metal or fiberglass roof? I did a few repairs/restores on older but l;st track of when they switched to fiberglass.
But some of the ideas will be the same. When the roof leaks, it does damage the inside where you see it BUT it obviously does stuff to anything between the inner and outer surfaces. So is this built on a wooden frame or metal? I suspect the reason the roof is soft is because a fair amount of the framing is rotten! Once wet enough to be soft, the wood gets mo0ld, fungus, rot, whatever we want to call it and if it is not removed or treated it will continue to degrade.
That can be a big one to fix and I have done it but DO NOT recommend it, so take that in mind!
My job was on metal siding which made it easier for me to work rather than learn the tricks of fiberglass. I was able to peel the roof and down one side off enough to rebuild a wooden framework to replace the rotten. Good enough for the beater stage of RV I was using at the time. However it was a monster job and was never going to be new!
Good enough for guys ice fishing?

One way to get a better idea of how an RV might do in winter is to look at the diagrams and consider where plumbing lines run.
One source of info to study is parts catalog:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Service/wincd/1999/wfg37g99.pdf

A different view of plumbing may be more help?

Plumbing Diagrams

On plumbing freeze questions, I look at where and how the lines may run and ask myself if inside heat is more likely to get there or does the cold outside get there easier! Freezing is one you likely know but it can be a surprise at times. Roll the dice at times?

For your use and time, the mileage may not be critical but that does tend to get higher than I might like on gas engines? Buy if you don't plan much driving, that may not hurt?

Delam sounds like fiberglass? That can be a real problem as water can get in the roof or around other openings like windows and if it is not fixed soon enough, the glue can begin to let the layers separate and that CAN get to be somewhat like rot as it tends to just gradually spread and can be hard to fix/stop!
How long it takes versus how long you need it to last and what cost for resale?

I marked up some concerns to consider on the fresh water. Just something to consider and debate how and where extra heat may be placed on the colder nights?

Attitude is a biggie! Are you looking for easy? Not! Get 'er done sort? It can be done, but that is where how bad we want to do it comes in!

Just my thoughts after doing a few when way younger! Not ever again, though!

 

[creativepart]

Thank you. I understand all of that. The inspector has an extensive check off list but I didn’t feel it necessary to list that here. Can the roof be sealed properly? Is delaminating an issue?

The answer is no, yes, maybe. It's impossible for any of us to know what the extent of the problem is.

A better question is, would you buy an decades old motorhome with a known leak to live in through a snowy cold Utah winter? I know the answer to that one, at least for me.

I suspect you're already sold, believe it's not a big deal and want to give it a try. We all hope the best for you.

 

[Kameron S]

LOL i hear you and good points you make. I’m definitely not sold. Actually leaning the other way after reading the post above by Morich.

 

[Kameron S]

99? Was that a metal or fiberglass roof? I did a few repairs/restores on older but l;st track of when they switched to fiberglass.
But some of the ideas will be the same. When the roof leaks, it does damage the inside where you see it BUT it obviously does stuff to anything between the inner and outer surfaces. So is this built on a wooden frame or metal? I suspect the reason the roof is soft is because a fair amount of the framing is rotten! Once wet enough to be soft, the wood gets mo0ld, fungus, rot, whatever we want to call it and if it is not removed or treated it will continue to degrade.
That can be a big one to fix and I have done it but DO NOT recommend it, so take that in mind!
My job was on metal siding which made it easier for me to work rather than learn the tricks of fiberglass. I was able to peel the roof and down one side off enough to rebuild a wooden framework to replace the rotten. Good enough for the beater stage of RV I was using at the time. However it was a monster job and was never going to be new!
Good enough for guys ice fishing?

One way to get a better idea of how an RV might do in winter is to look at the diagrams and consider where plumbing lines run.
One source of info to study is parts catalog:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Service/wincd/1999/wfg37g99.pdf

A different view of plumbing may be more help?

Plumbing Diagrams

On plumbing freeze questions, I look at where and how the lines may run and ask myself if inside heat is more likely to get there or does the cold outside get there easier! Freezing is one you likely know but it can be a surprise at times. Roll the dice at times?

For your use and time, the mileage may not be critical but that does tend to get higher than I might like on gas engines? Buy if you don't plan much driving, that may not hurt?

Delam sounds like fiberglass? That can be a real problem as water can get in the roof or around other openings like windows and if it is not fixed soon enough, the glue can begin to let the layers separate and that CAN get to be somewhat like rot as it tends to just gradually spread and can be hard to fix/stop!
How long it takes versus how long you need it to last and what cost for resale?

I marked up some concerns to consider on the fresh water. Just something to consider and debate how and where extra heat may be placed on the colder nights?
View attachment 1113270
Attitude is a biggie! Are you looking for easy? Not! Get 'er done sort? It can be done, but that is where how bad we want to do it comes in!

Just my thoughts after doing a few when way younger! Not ever again, though!

This is so helpful Morich, so thank you for taking the time and energy to reply!

 

[Morich]

How useable my info can depend a great deal on what and how that year of RV was built. There was a fully wooden frame in some I rebuilt but they were also early 70 models and things are a great deal different as time goes along. Materials and methods changed.

So one of the big points is going to be what and how they built it!
current process uses lots more metal framing and does away with lots of the trauma of rotted wood.
But without knowing how bad, it is still a problem when they can feel the roof is soft! How soft is soft? And why it gets soft can matter with what form of roof structure they built.
the 70's style was a basic 2X2 wooden frame and went pretty fast when it got wet for long term.
They have moved to metal frames and layers of materials bonded together with some form of adhesive. Lots of difference there that one needs to look carefully to try to spot what is there.

But if we assume it has metal framing with bonded layers on top, it still seems something kind of major is wrong if there are soft places??? Lots of guessing there but part of the strength is in the combo of different materials glued together to form something like an arch that is laying on metal for more strength?
To get soft spots, it seems like at least the outer layer has broken loose from the foamboard it was glued and then that foamboard was glued to the inner surface. Kind of a sandwich?
As I understand the process, there are different sections of the RV built up as "sandwiches", then they are placed together as section, kind of like a prefab house might be?

But if water gets in between those layers, there is hardly any way to get it out and it just seems likely to continue delaminating one layer from another. With no real good way to get it glued back together, it seems like the arch of the roof is gradually losing the strength it should have?

ALL very much theory and guesswork without actually seeing what is going on.
It might work to spend a fair amount of time, effort, and money to seal the roof but then sealers have a hard time staying good if the surface moves a bit.
I'm guessing 6 inches of snow might not be unusual for your winters? That's a pretty heavy load if things are not solid!
I spent a few years where that was a constant but it was other peoples equipment that failed!

 

[Kameron S]

The inspector said the only soft spot is around the bathroom skylight, about 6” in all directions. The bathroom was remodeled so maybe they tried to reno the skylight and failed..? He said it’s not terrible-he’s seen worse. The remainder of the roof is “ very solid.” The entire roof is fiberglass or I would have the whole thing replaced. I’m a Floridian and have only been in Utah since October but yes, winters can easily have 6” of snow.

I don’t know if it is a wood or metal frame. Where would I find that info?

Thanks again!

 

[Morich]

I'm sure some of the dealers could find out but this may be a case where going straight to some of the factory folks would be best. Lots of dealers are selling several different brands and tend to be less involved in the deep stuff!
This seems like it might be the gopod p[lace to get specifics of who has drawings and plans?

Contact Us - Winnebago

www.winnebago.com

I've read good reports but never actually called any of these!
Good luck on the chase!

 

[Kameron S]

LOL Thanks Morich. I so appreciate it!

 

[creativepart]

I don’t know if it is a wood or metal frame. Where would I find that info?

Couple of things to know about Winnebago motor home roofs:

1. They are not fiberglass. They are covered in a thin sheet of Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic. That means the plastic sheeting has strands of fiberglass in it for added durability. But it is super easy to tear. It's not fiberglass Gel Coat like a boat or similar. It's 1/16th of an inch think flexible plastic with strands of fiber impregnated inside.

2. There is NO wood or metal frame. There is aluminum side rails and that's all. The roof is held in shape by a sandwich of ceiling panel, 4-6" of styrofoam, 3-ply Luan and the Filon brand FRP skin. All of it is glued together to provide structural strength.

But there is no other framing beside the side rails.

This video will explain better than I can:

 

[Morich]

But this is only true for the later models! My big question is when they moved from wood to metal to the current. The older models were definite wood with metal overlay. That is where I started as buying leakers and since it was metal attached with staples and screws, it was within my experience realm to take the attachments out, fold the metal back and rebuild the wooden frames. The metal top was hard to work without making permanent fold lines if not careful and often the inside was in such bad shape that it required replacement.

When we got into the 2015 models, I soon found it was hard to run wiring front to back. Not being willing to spend for a 48 inch long bit that would drill metal, I went with exposed /surface channels.

But they WERE cheap and from there it was just a matter of rebuilding to the point we felt "okay". Different day and age with totally different outlooks on what is needed and what is just fluff to avoid spending money on at the time.

We had the choice of going with less or going into debt. That seems to have changed and if a young person is not willing to go broke to look good, they seem to be looked down on as having less value.

The funny part of that story is how many folks like Sam Walton were once very poor when they started!

 

[Reniram]

Initial upfront cost to own will not be a huge problem regardless of how much you end up buying this rig for....however,you must be prepared to enjoy ownership and prepare yourself for regular upkeep and maintenance..if you are a tinkerer,carpenter ,mechanic or electrician this rig may keep you active.You may have many happy travels..some with a few hiccups but be aware that some campgrounds frown on older units regardless of condition.Welcome to the world of happy Campers.You say you will not travel with this so why not look for a fith wheel or pull behind thus eliminating engine /transmission old bad fuel etc systems to make life a little easier...

 

[Reniram]

Initial upfront cost to own will not be a huge problem regardless of how much you end up buying this rig for....however,you must be prepared to enjoy ownership and prepare yourself for regular upkeep and maintenance..if you are a tinkerer,carpenter ,mechanic or electrician this rig may keep you active.You may have many happy travels..some with a few hiccups but be aware that some campgrounds frown on older units regardless of condition.Welcome to the world of happy Campers.You say you will not travel with this so why not look for a fith wheel or pull behind thus eliminating engine /transmission old bad fuel etc systems to make life a little easier...

 

[MadMaxWinny]

From the inspector's description, the roof doesn't sound like a deal breaker. If it were me trying to make a decision, I would look at his entire list. Are there many things which should have been addressed during any responsible/routine maintenance? The only reason I bought this old rig was the evidence of very good care and low wear. Be prepared to deal with end of life issues on quite a few components.