2025 Vista 29V Rear Camera Harness Access

[AZFrankP]

Looking for help accessing the rear view camera in a 2025 Vista 29v. It looks like the top rear roof trim has to be removed to access the wiring and remove the camera. However, I don't want to remove, possibly destroying the weather seal that probably exists for this large trim piece. Has anyone did this? Read further for background.

The coach was purchased in February and still under warranty. The dealership is trying to fix but mostly likely won't be able to finish in time before a planned cross country trip in 3 weeks. They proved the problem is in the harness which is very strange. The camera worked perfectly for about a month then gradually started to loose video for short periods of time, getting worse until now not working at all. The tech claims he removed the camera and plugged it in directly at the video switch under the dashboard where it worked perfectly. He also claimed the small cable felt warm to the touch which might indicate being pierced by a screw during the coach's assembly. Since I am a techie as well, I'm also giving it a try by trying to find the source of the problem. The dealership just wants to replace the harness which I'm sure is not a stock item (Haven't heard back from Winnebago yet) which is a major repair and not likely to be completed soon. Therfore, towing a vehicle for several hours a day for most of the summer, I have no other choices. I have tried two wireless cameras with solar powered batteries as a temporary measure but returned them both. Despite their ratings and good reviews, they are simply not reliable for that kind of demand. Solar can't keep up charging the battery for operation more than 5 hours a day. Reception that far away is also full of interference and dropouts.

Looking for help or other recommendations.

 

[Eagle5]

Hi Frank,
If it were me, I would get a camera from this guy:

https://www.rvcams.com/

and mount it from inside the rear window (not outside.) That way, you can keep it plugged into 12 VDC, and you would have line-of-site reception to the display on your dash.
You can schedule the cable replacement for the fall. Check with your dealer, but I believe you can still have a repair made as far-out as 1½ years from your purchase, if the initial claim is made within the first year.
Eagle5

 

[Morich]

Okay, one techie sort to another?
Let me point to a few things that jump out. Testing the harnesss seems to be a bit odd in the way they went about it as it seems pretty lame. If you think a cable is bad, what do you look for in testing? A harness is a set of wires and things that go worng with wires is pretty limited when we get donw ot looking. Opens, shorts, grounds, and crosses are pretty normal things to test ofr when you have a suspect!
Pretty normal and easy for a real thinker to check the existing cable for those common issues, isn't it? So what does thier method do doing away with the existing cable do?
It avoids finding small things like obvious small problem at the connectors at each end!!
I don't know this cable but I would assume it has some form of coax that likely has a braided shield on the outside to control random noise. And what is one of the most common problems with coax conections? A small strand of the mesh around the coax gets loose and finds it's way to trouble!
For testing, most any set of wires comes down to some wires that go from one end to the other. Even the metal mesh around coax is much like a single wire for this purpose. So if they reallly want to know what is wrong, would it not seem logical to test the harness for something worng like maybe one of the connectors needs to be cut off and replaced to get rid of whatever open, short, ground ,etc. that they find?
One thing working microwave around industry will teach you is that you really do want to test a coax before jumping to replacement ---especially if it goes several hundred feet up a tower where it get REALLY ugly to replace it!

That might do the trick in under an hour where it might be lots more profit and less brain needed to replace the whole thing and leave you without the RV for most of the summer????
You seem to be dealing with a tech whose first thought is replacement, not testing to see if that is needed! Instead of looking for common issues where coax connectors are put on, they have jumped straight to the weird stuff like a screw run through a coax?

But then if they removed the camera to take it to the front to test what is the current question about gettting the Rv apart to remove the camera or access it for testing?

Just saying "something" is wrong doesn't really sound like a good test result to me!

 

[AZFrankP]

Hi Frank,
If it were me, I would get a camera from this guy:

https://www.rvcams.com/

and mount it from inside the rear window (not outside.) That way, you can keep it plugged into 12 VDC, and you would have line-of-site reception to the display on your dash.
You can schedule the cable replacement for the fall. Check with your dealer, but I believe you can still have a repair made as far-out as 1½ years from your purchase, if the initial claim is made within the first year.
Eagle5

Thanks for the input. I'll use as a last result.

I still would like to try and locate the source of the problem. Leave it to Winnie for not just installing a simple camera with a bracket to unplug for servicing. Instead, the wire goes through a small hole in the rear wall which I'm guessing must be exposed by removing to the roof corner trim to access the camera connector. At the moment, I need to know what I'm getting into before removing the trim it so I can reseal if necessary.

If I can do that, I have cable testers that literally tells me where a short or other issues are in the cable as long as it is disconnected on both ends. I can access the switch box where it terminates under the dash but need access to the camera end.

 

[Morich]

But if we assume they did not remove the cap to get to the connections to remove the camera to take to the front to test, can we assume there is a way for you to remove it as well for the testing you need to do?
Sorry but there seems to be something we are missing. It seems the two possibillities are that they did not do the test they tell you about or it is easy to get the camera off?

Those I have seen, the cable is just laid in the space left when the upper corner trim is laid over it and just kind of lays there and can be pulled out from top back or front corners.
But there are lots of ways to attach the top corners and I am certain I am not up on what they may have done on a 2025 as methods are constantly changing!

 

[AZFrankP]

Okay, one techie sort to another?
Let me point to a few things that jump out. Testing the harnesss seems to be a bit odd in the way they went about it as it seems pretty lame. If you think a cable is bad, what do you look for in testing? A harness is a set of wires and things that go worng with wires is pretty limited when we get donw ot looking. Opens, shorts, grounds, and crosses are pretty normal things to test ofr when you have a suspect!
Pretty normal and easy for a real thinker to check the existing cable for those common issues, isn't it? So what does thier method do doing away with the existing cable do?
It avoids finding small things like obvious small problem at the connectors at each end!!
I don't know this cable but I would assume it has some form of coax that likely has a braided shield on the outside to control random noise. And what is one of the most common problems with coax conections? A small strand of the mesh around the coax gets loose and finds it's way to trouble!
For testing, most any set of wires comes down to some wires that go from one end to the other. Even the metal mesh around coax is much like a single wire for this purpose. So if they reallly want to know what is wrong, would it not seem logical to test the harness for something worng like maybe one of the connectors needs to be cut off and replaced to get rid of whatever open, short, ground ,etc. that they find?
One thing working microwave around industry will teach you is that you really do want to test a coax before jumping to replacement ---especially if it goes several hundred feet up a tower where it get REALLY ugly to replace it!

That might do the trick in under an hour where it might be lots more profit and less brain needed to replace the whole thing and leave you without the RV for most of the summer????
You seem to be dealing with a tech whose first thought is replacement, not testing to see if that is needed! Instead of looking for common issues where coax connectors are put on, they have jumped straight to the weird stuff like a screw run through a coax?

But then if they removed the camera to take it to the front to test what is the current question about gettting the Rv apart to remove the camera or access it for testing?

Just saying "something" is wrong doesn't really sound like a good test result to me!

All good information. I agree 100% but I can't tell the dealership what to do. Unfortunately, they're so big, they can care less as long as they're getting paid.

I have very sophisticated cable testing equipment that can actually tell me the approximate location of the fault, but I need the cable open at both ends. Winnie decided to put the camera wire through a small hole then terminate it. It is installed in the large roof corner trim which seems like to only way to access it (See attached picture with approximately 20 screws to hold it in place). Before I start, I would like to know if that is the way to the connector and if, and how to reseal when finished. The wire is potted into the camera. It looks like you have to cut the camera cable to remove it. I don't want to do that and void my warranty. At this point, I guess the tech didn't test after all unless he cut the wire and replaced the connector. He stated to me that he unplugged the camera, from the rear harness and plugged it to the switchbox at the dash and it worked. To do that, he would have to remove everything as stated above and somehow get the pigtail through the small hole. Since 1st posting this, I looked at the area and nothing (screws or caulking) seems disturbed. I tried pulling on the wire to the point of worrying about breaking it to see if I could expose the connector, but no luck.

 

[Eagle5]

Hi Frank,
As the conversations drift into Time Domain Reflectometers and major disassembly of your Vista, I would suggest another option to hold you over for your trip. At just $22.91, a 11"x14" Fresnel Lens stuck on the inside of your rear window just might do the trick.
Eagle5

Amazon.com

 

[AZFrankP]

Thanks, but doesn't do much good from the driver's seat. Even if I had a rear-view mirror, it's 30 feet away and couldn't see it from there .

 

[Morich]

Well, that certainly has me beat on how to work it! I used to have a job that required going into different industries and it gave me a chance to see how folks handle different issues but this looks awkward to get a cable added and then have to set that back wall in place with a half mile of cable hanging out! Maybe we could all schedule a walkthrough at the factory to see that done?

 

[AZFrankP]

UPDATE!!
I'm now thinking the tech or in this case, the service advisor, lied to me about testing. It's still possible he's telling the truth but doubtful. I manage to expose the camera connector by removing all if the bottom screws in the trim. Because the corner trim is plastic, I was able to lift it up enough to reach the connector which is a micro 4-pin tubular style that barely fits through the hole. I might interject a comment and say that if I met the engineer that designed it, I would grab him by the collar and say "REALLY?". There is plenty of room as the harness installs along the roofline yet the harness is cut short 6" to the left of the camera mount and taped to a larger harness of wires for lights, etc. The camera on the other hand, has at least an 18" pigtail wrapped around the large harness and brackets that restricts it from being pulled out any more than about 6". If the harness connector was 8" longer and the hole was 1/16" bigger in diameter, and the camera pigtail was just laying in there unrestricted, the removal would have taken 2 minutes.
Getting back to the issue of why I don't think the camera was tested is as follows:
1. No signs in the caulking being disturbed around the top and sides of the trim. I lifted it up enough not to break the seal but only left me a small 1 1/2" gap to reach inside to get the connector apart. It took at least 30 minutes. I would think most techs would remove the whole thing then re-seal. It could have been done in much less time.
2. There was white silicone caulk under each one of the lower screws that did not look like it was recently applied. This caulk was still in tact and broke only when I lifted the trim piece from the body.
3. The 4-pin micro connector at the camera is different than the 4-pin DIN connector at the switch box. The tech would need an adapter to check it.
4. If he managed to do all that, why would he take the time to twist and route the camera pigtail when re-installing.

I took pictures of all this to show the service Manager when I see him on Monday.

Unfortunately, I need a couple of adapters to check the harness and camera also so that will have to wait until Monday.

I'm getting concerned that all connectors I've seen so far are molded and not wire crimped. It would be extremely rare that these cables fail without physical damage. I'm still hoping it's the camera and not the harness. A harness failure would probably mean physical damage somewhere.

 

[Morich]

Oh yeaah! The joy of progress! Even if the progress seems to be backward to the rear?
I hate to be such a cynic when it comes to repair but I really have a hard time getting them done when I have an RV shop look at it.
One of the other things I thought to mention was the comment on the wiring harness heating. Assuming it had insulation and knowing it is small gauge wire, the idea that enough current was flowing to make the wires heat, leads me to wonder if that would not have been plenty to blow a fuse? But I start off with the idea that my hand is not a good thermometer!
I really have no good ideas of what the problem but once I find I'm dealing with that sort of folks, I begin to question lots of other points as well!
UGH!

 

[AZFrankP]

I'm not sure the warm wire was really an issue. I didn't notice anything unusual on the camera side. You did bring up a good point though. Since there are 4 wires inside an insulated cable no more than .150" in diameter, each wire including the power carrying one can't be more than 24 or 26 awg. That means the wire could act as it's own fuse if power was shorted. It would make sense in that the camera started out working fine then became more intermittent and now totally off. With the coach ignition on, I don't measure any voltage between any of the four wires at the micro connector. That's not a good sign and probably no way to get it repaired before my trip. As someone else suggested, I'll try to get a better wireless camera and hook it up in the bedroom behind the rear window where I have 12-volt access. The picture through the window should be good enough for safety's sake as long as I can get good wireless stability over the 30' the signal has to travel. The other two cameras I bought from Amazon wouldn't cut it. Lots of dropouts and interference. This coach is totally electronic with a lot of high frequencies to deal with for a wireless application. I really don't want to run a wire back there, even if it is only temporary.

 

[Eagle5]

Hi Frank,
Here is the sealant guide for your Vista:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/Sealant/000181968.pdf

It is recommended to use these sealants so as to keep it compatible with what is there already.
Eagle5

 

[AZFrankP]

Perfect! Thank you.

 

[Morich]

On the wire size thought? The wire size dictates what size fuse. So a tiny wire seems pretty iffy when a person thinks they feel heat through the insulation? If a wire is getting enough current to heat through the insulation it would seem to be blowing a fuse sized to protect that small wire?
My idea is the fuseis meant to rpotect the insulation from melting!
We can all get confused but a tech that feels for heat in your area may be chasing the wrong thing?
Sometimes my car hood gets lots of heat in PhX!!
But I'll stop the fussing and try to be productive!
I find this drawing that seems to show a connect tio the rear camera. If you are not finding power at the rear, maybe something as small as a blow fuse is now the problem.
Maybe it IS a wire problem and finally DID blow a fuse? First step to check why no power?

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/2022/000218103.pdf

A wire problem that made low power but finall totally short? But do you know the RV well enough to say where there is a panel feeding chassis items that you may have missed? OR maybe corrosion on one of those two connectors and it gradually got worse?
Lots of ugly thought but maybe needs a look for those?
Paranoid thinking makes me wonder why they jumped to bad cable if they have not looked for the normal stuff like dirty connections? And you can't look for bad connections if you don't get to the camera connections!
On a different path, I never got used to having a rear camera on when driving and just went with the idea that it was okay as long as the TPMS was reading the toad tires and I did not see it come around the side!

Wish you luck on the trip and hope it goes well!

 

[AZFrankP]

Thanks for the info. Not a fuse issue. Power is supplied by the camera distribution switch and the other cameras work fine. I'm sure that circuitry has short circuit protection if it's needed. Again, I'm not sure heat was ever a problem. It was 108 in Phoenix the day I had it in for service. There are no shorts in the wires, I tested for continuity. I'm going to jury rig something up to check for opens. If I find one I'll have to wait until I get the adapters for my equipment to see exactly where it is.

 

[AZFrankP]

Here's an interesting story for you. While driving through Yellowstone with a Smart Car in tow, I noticed a tire rolling past me from my left side mirror. Looking at the camera, the car was perfectly still but missing it's left front tire. When I stopped to investigate, the tire was completely missing from the rim but the car was light enough to be completely held off the ground by just the hitch. Had to drive that way for 25 miles to Bozeman, MO to get it fixed. Smart Cars don't have spares, just a repair kit and small compressor. It has a weird tire size and 3 bolt rim. The rim was fine and Bozeman had 1 tire in the whole town. Somebody up there was watching over us. I now keep a spare in the back.

 

[Morich]

Yes, we do get lucky at times! I had company in town and took a group of kids fishing. On the way back home we were coming through a small town at about thirty MPH and the kids started laughing about a tire running up the sholder beside us. Seems a tire came off the boat trailer and it runs faster when not loaded down! No damage of any sort as the prop was up on the boat! A half mile back we were going near 60 on a small country road but here we rolled to a stop and could see a parts store to get lug nuts!
Somebody watching over me?
Adapter to fit the connector? When in deep, I have made pins out of sewing pins to let me connect odd things together with alligator clips to get just one or two connections made.
Enough with the weird planning, so I'll let it alone and wish you luck as we both know that helps!

 

[nschoenebeck]

Looking for help accessing the rear view camera in a 2025 Vista 29v. It looks like the top rear roof trim has to be removed to access the wiring and remove the camera. However, I don't want to remove, possibly destroying the weather seal that probably exists for this large trim piece. Has anyone did this? Read further for background.

The coach was purchased in February and still under warranty. The dealership is trying to fix but mostly likely won't be able to finish in time before a planned cross country trip in 3 weeks. They proved the problem is in the harness which is very strange. The camera worked perfectly for about a month then gradually started to loose video for short periods of time, getting worse until now not working at all. The tech claims he removed the camera and plugged it in directly at the video switch under the dashboard where it worked perfectly. He also claimed the small cable felt warm to the touch which might indicate being pierced by a screw during the coach's assembly. Since I am a techie as well, I'm also giving it a try by trying to find the source of the problem. The dealership just wants to replace the harness which I'm sure is not a stock item (Haven't heard back from Winnebago yet) which is a major repair and not likely to be completed soon. Therfore, towing a vehicle for several hours a day for most of the summer, I have no other choices. I have tried two wireless cameras with solar powered batteries as a temporary measure but returned them both. Despite their ratings and good reviews, they are simply not reliable for that kind of demand. Solar can't keep up charging the battery for operation more than 5 hours a day. Reception that far away is also full of interference and dropouts.

Looking for help or other recommendations.

Hi Frank,
I experienced the exact same issue on my 2023 vista 29v... The dealer was also helpless and tried to replace the camera, took forever to get the part. As I was in a similar situation as you, no time because of an upcoming trip, I ordered the original camera and original cable on the Internet to test it myself. Got it in a day or two.. the fix was not the camera it was the cable.. I did my trip by temporary running the cable inside the coach trough the rear window to the front dashboard. Worked perfectly...

The final fix was done by Winnebago in Forest City IA for me on a later trip.. they did run a new permanent cable for me. So all is good now. In Iowa I was asking the tech who worked the issue what the problem with the cable was... He told me the front connector on the cable was bad, a problem they did see more often already.

Hope this helps getting it fixed for you.. good luck
Norbert

 

[AZFrankP]

Thank you for this Norbert. It definitely helps. I also determined it is the cable. My equipment indicates an open 50' from my transmitted source. I think the cable is 20 meters long which places the fault pretty close to the end of the cable, same issue you had.

Is your system a Sony also and did you plug in the cable you purchased directly to the switch? How did you cross the Winnie P/N to the one you bought in order for it to mate with Winnie connectors?

Thanks again for the response.
Frank