2022 Minnie 2529RG - Accessing components in the underbelly

[epnh]

Good afternoon all.

We just purchased a 2022 Minnie 2529RG from a dealer. We haven't taken possession of it yet, the pre-buy inspection revealed a few things that they need to fix first. We're hoping they'll get all that done this week so we can pick it up this weekend.

I'm trying to find out the best and most accepted way to get at the components (tanks, valves, plumbing) inside the enclosed underbelly, should that become necessary. People tell me the underbelly is nailed in place and you need to remove the nails, then replace them with self-tapping screws when remounting the underbelly. Others, including a few in this forum, have mentioned taking a guess as to where the problem might be and then cutting holes in the coroplast (???). They mentioned that as though it's a regular routine thing.

Is this as much of a major thing as it sounds?

Eric in NH
1991 Winnebago Warrior / Toyota chassis (might be for sale if anyone is interested)
2022 Winnebago Minnie 2529RG

 

[Morich]

Have you done repairs in things like sheetrock? Part of the question has to be how well you know where to cut as that can be the first step to the job. Much easier to repair one larger opening than many smaller, so getting it large enough is one way to cut the work. Avoiding cutting anything you don't want cut is an obvious problem to avoid!
I cut enough to be sure I have room to do the job, then go for repair when done.
Depending on what the belly material actually is made of, I often go for simple wooden shims like wide lattice as a cheap and easy thing to get. At other times I have also gone for cutting my own shims to fit, but that tends to be a bit too tedious if ready made is handy. At times I have had left over Formica, etc. that works well when cut to size. Formica type material is great as it adds little bulk that can tend to make it tear loose when the RV bounces along the road!
I'm willing to trade money for time! But I also have a fair amount of left overs on hand and tend to use what I have that seems to fit the job! Sometimes it is scrap wood and other times it is scrap "whatever"!

When done, I go back using whatever contact cement is on hand. That serves both to get the job done as well as get rid of the left over stuff that is setting around taking up space! Most of the time I put the cement on a precut strip, give it plenty of time to set correctly and then press it on the top of the existing material, give it the time to make sure it is ready all around the repair and then cement that in place.
I like the contact cement because I can work my way around any large pieces much the same as doing cabinet tops.
I don't like to work with the slower setting adhesives that I have to clamp or prop up and wait forever to take the props out.
There are times when I don't get it done as well as I want and it may feel better to add a strip of shim on the lower side as well if it tries to sag down or looks like a question. But if I have done the first strips well enough to make a stiff section, simply pressing the new contact cement will adhere well.

One that I usually have a bit left over and find works really well:

DAP Weldwood 3 fl. oz. Original Contact Cement 00107 - The Home Depot

Form an instant, high-strength bond on a variety of surfaces by using this DAP Weldwood Original Contact Cement. Provides excellent water resistance.

www.homedepot.com

 

[travelkids]

epnh,
The material used in the underbelly of your 2529RG is called Coroplast. It is available from the Big Box stores and from other suppliers (Google is your friend). The best way, in my opinion, to secure the pieces when reassembling with RV Underbelly Tape available from Amazon. and other suppliers. Good luck! Please post what you did and how the repairs went.

 

[epnh]

Thanks, all. This isn't anything that's imminent, at least I hope not. I was just asking for future reference in case the need should arise.

Eric